Joe Handley

For me, a B400 with anything other than some cookie cutter small block Ford or Chevy motor would be cool!

Looks like it should be pretty interesting when you're done, can't wait! Excuse the brain fart, was that one of the kits you got from me by chance? I can't remember which ones I sent you right now

That was well before the windows became a "structural member" of the car body IIRC Dave I also seem to remember reading an article about how somebody wrecked an early B-Body Mopar while street racing a GM product (GTO I think) and swerved to miss an on coming car (pulled in front of them while they were running 120+ ) and hit a bridge. The front of the car had been pushed back nearly to the firewall and the hood was folded in half and the bend pointing straight up in the air when things came to a stop. Amazingly the driver, who had been wearing a seat belt and I htink the author of this story, not only survived but walked away and was extremely sore afterwards! Only other problem was that the police refused to end the investigation until they were told where the driver's body was and took some work to convince them that one of the guys they were talking to was the car's owner and driver at the time of the crash!

In some ways, I'm not as concerned about that as I am after watching videos like this where a late model extended cab, three door Ford folds up just as bad at lower speeds I do not trust IIHS much though after watching some of their crash tests on Dateline NBC though. There were several occasions on low speed tests that they docked vehicles because of the price of repairs for the body damage, yet because a motor mount cost less to fix after breaking in a 5mph rear impact, that car got better ratings...even though the freakin' motor mount broke after a couple minor impacts and the last one of which being at the opposite end of the car Then there was the test like the one I posted above where the dummy "broke his ankle" in one car because the foot was placed on the gas, not the brake and the car had been designed with a break-away brake pedal too keep that from happening, but since the IIHS puts the foot on the gas, they told the manufacturer too bad, you get to be rated our way. IIRC they even knocked a SUV because then it backed into a pole, the standard equipement trailer hitch prevented any damage to the bumper and tailgate and they claimed that if the hitch hadn't been a standard part, the truck would have recieved major body damage

Anybody from here ever attend?

http://www.dailyherald.com/story/?id=322419 I was getting ready to go and mow the yard around noon today when a local news channel had a story about a bank in Bloomingdale, IL about 10 minutes from the apartment my sister is getting ready to move out of being robbed by a run away inmate I turned the TV off and told Mom on my way out the door to turn on CLTV because of that and that Nicki (My sister), wasn't moving home soon enough (by sunday!!!) and walked outside to get the mower out of the garage and get to work. As I got started on the front yard Nicki stopped by while she was on lunch and then my neighbors came out the their front door and started looking at the sky north of us and I kept hearing what sounded like a helicopter (figured it was on it's way to Bloomingdale) but couldn't see anything After finishing mowing the front yard I turned the mower off and pushed it into the back yard and noticed what looked like it might be the local ABC affiliate's helicopter not far enough north of the house and figured out that's why the neighbors were looking north into the sky while I was up front. Both Mom and Nicki told me come in side because the guy wrecked here in town about 10 minutes or so from here while the police were chasing him:blink: Here's a picture I shot of the local police station after it was all over, I think most of the local news stations were there today!

I swear that thing looks like it was penned by the same guy who designs washing machines for LG

WOW, and I thought the Aztec was the fugliest thing on wheels

hmmmm, this ain't good....just found the "Battle of the Bulge" "Armored" version of this on the shelf http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti00...=LXFHL3&P=7

That one probably had a Chevy motor in it

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Jeep-Rat-Ro...d=p4506.c0.m245

Sorry to make it sound like that didn't solve anything, I ment to say that this fixed it and it runs no hotter than it did before the pump came apart!

One fine looking model!

Just saw that whe I went to check my e-mail, what a shame

Dad and I got it back together today and it running the same temps as it did before the pump failed

After what he did to CB's finger, Mr. Squirly is fine by me

Dad already had a t-stat when he discovered the WP problem and IIRC it's either 195* or 205* on that. The plugs are Bosche Platinums that I put in at 77k and were the ones that were supposed to be for the 4.0l (counter worker handed them to me, so I had no further influence in what he looked up) so they should be the proper heat range.

A Daytona C/S, That can't even be as common as your Plymouth was I see you relocated you battery to a better location, but I do have to ask, did you add a computer fan to the SMEC module to help keep it cool at low speeds and idle? Had that problem with the underhood computer on the Lebaron a couple times and a ziplock bag of ice worked wonders in a pinch

I'll ask about that, IIRC there was an article in Street Rodder about that 10 years ago and thought about getting a couple for my K-Cars since they used aluminum heads on Nickle-Iron blocks but never got around to trying to find them locally (didn't even have the internet at the time). I may replace the lower hose while it's apart and save the current one as a spare too.

What's odd is that we've had 3 other 4.0l Cherokees that ran over 200k that didn't have this problem with any of their water pumps.

Dad did flush the cooling system yesterday and I'm hoping to get my radiator back from the shop monday, I guess they were going to boil it and roddit out so it's completely cleaned out! Dad thinks the impeller was aluminum and with the rest of the engine being cast iron, electrolisis would explain what happened. I'm wondering if that may have been changed between late '97/early '98 when mine was built and '07 when the replacement was built though.

My '98 Cherokee started running kinda warm the other night on the way home from the gym and the next morning on the way to work I stopped at a 7-11 and the coolant bottle was gurgling and vibrating a bit violently. Normally it'll run in the 190-200* with the 3 row radiator but is currently running around 210-235* no matter if it's 69* and 10:30 at night or 85* and 1pm. I did add about 1/2 gallon of coolant/water mix between the radiator and overflow bottle (which put it about 1/2 full) and took it for a quick test drive on lunch. It was fine until the about 10 minutes or so in when the needle got into the 210+ range and stayed there until I got back to the store and turned the engine off, then it started puking some coolant out of the overflow bottle as well as having the bottle vibrating a second time. Dad and I weren't sure if it's a major lack of coolant, dieing fans or water pump, or faulty thermostat and I couldn't seem to find any obvious leaks. The fans, water pump, (the plugged) heater core, upper radiator hose, and heater hoses were all factory 131k mile originals while the all brass 3 row radiator (Trans Pro), thermostat (MOPAR Parts), and lower hose (also MOPAR Parts) were installed at 88k. Friday Dad started to take the truck apart and at least swap out the T-Stat and try to flush the radiator, but suggested that I try to get another just in case. I called the radiator shop I bought this one at (for $190 or so) and was told that this one was discontinued and the only choice was a factory replacement aluminum w/ plastic end cap for $115. I also asked if they had ways of cleaning it out if it wasn't leaking and they could do that to (looks to be about $90 or so with tax!) The radiator didn't have a leak but Dad decided to drop it off their and have them clean it out even though he managed to get some pretty decent water flow through it. While Dad was driving me to work he suggested that I call and a friend of mine that works at a local NAPA certified service center that used to be a Chrysler/Jeep/Dodge dealer and give members of my Jeep club discounts to see if they had any water pumps in stock for the it and he'd swap it out while the truck was apart. They had reman's for less than $50 and new for $120 but with my discount the new one would cost around $85, so I had that one put on hold so Dad could pick it up after dropping me off at work. when he took the OEM water pump off it had all but one of the blades corrode off of it, the only time I remember seeing that happening to somebody else on NAXJA.org in late 2003 or sometime during 2004 had the same problem. All of these pics were shot while the parts were sitting in the back of Dad's '90 Laredo this morning. Here's the new and old pumps together. The new one alone and the box for it All that's left is to get the radiator back from the shop and put the truck the rest of the way back together, Dad's thinking it's going to run even cooler now than it did with the just the radiator swap!

Ummmm.....IIRC, didn't Bruce Lee have issues driving the original?

Looks good! I'm clueless as to why, but it reminds me of a strawberry Pop-Tart for some odd reason

Visually, that car is down right sexy compared to that Ferrari (kinda ugly if you ask me) and the F1 (visually boring compared to this)!