Joe Handley

Possibly, though I nearly got in trouble with only 146hp and FWD with my first car, turbo came on and the car tried ripping the wheel out of my hand.

That is good to know!

Funny you said that, as Dad and I were getting into his minivan after buying my second of this kit as well as another Black Beauty Imperial kit, I told him I was probably going to pick more of these Merc kits up as I find them if the price is decent.

I started digging into one of mine yesterday.

I’m pretty sure this was meant to be an easy to build snap kit for Ford to run their version of the Make and Take on the Auto Show circuit. I bought the 1st Gen kit a couple weeks ago and it’s got the more typical detail for one of the Revell snap kits,

This kit being a curbside is why I bought a couple, don’t have to mess with the engine and should be easier to get really low. The body lines look pretty nice and I do like that the trunk is part of the body (as I do with the Revell Merc) as I just really don’t care for the fit of the trunk on the AMT kit. The skirts are molded on too, which is ok and can always be worked around if I want to do something different too.

Just picked a couple of these up, thought that they might make for a couple nice curbside lead sled builds.

Was just listening to Meatloaf on the way home from the gym tonight!

There’s no rule, but lots of the BroDozer-ish truck builds usually have at least no front drive shafts, some probably due to excessive joint angles, if they even get driven outside of on and off trailers.

Getting further along on the truck today and it’s going about where I want it to look. got the doubled insides made and cement is curing right now.

We got a package of Evergreen 20”x8”x.080” Black Sheet Styrene and started messing around with the bed bar I mentioned earlier, this is just the beginnings of it here as it was just roughly trimmed out from the sheet with the help of a mechanic pencil, Harbor Freight Square, and one of my box cutters from when I worked retail. I’ll probably dig a bit deeper into it this weekend.

Thanks, I sketched up what I may do for that bed bar and edit into this post later, any possible Widebody extensions may have to be improvised at the desk. Here’s a rough sketch of my plan on the bed bar, kinda Chevy Avalanche looking, if I may be honest though. Sorry about the location, it was a spur of the moment shot after grabbing a bite to each between work and the gym.

This years club build project to be done by the 2nd Saturday of December this year and we’re all building the Revell Make and Take 2017 Ford F150 Raptor kits that the club was able to acquire. Dad and I weren’t able to get ours until last weekend since we weren’t able to go the the December ‘23 meeting/Christmas party due to me catching Covid right before it and then some fairly nasty winter weather in January. We’ve been scratching our heads to try and figure out what to do and I finally figured mine out today after running across a video of the RTR F150 Street Truck as envisioned by drift racer Vaughn Gettin Jr that could be a daily driven truck, but also capable of being off roaded (including jumps!) and as well as drifted, plus with it being bagged using a parts of their own King Shocks, and Air Lift Suspension, it could be raised or lowered for the purpose at hand. https://www.speedhunters.com/2015/09/the-ultimate-fun-haver-rtr-ford-f150/ Here it just popped together so I know what I’m starting with. What’s not pictured is what I did next, which is where I started by filing the parts of the chassis where the axles clip in into it so I could have it fully droop out when lifted off the table top and sitting low when on it’s tires. Once that was done, I put the body on the chassis minus the interior and bed to measure how far above the chassis plate the axles would sit. After I finished all of the above, I stuck the interior/bed tub back in the body and check out the fit, which worked out better than I planned on! Debating about making my own Widebody fenders for it and not sure what is out there for appropriate aftermarket or kit sourced wheels and tires that might work in place of the box stock stuff. Also debating about making some sort of faux can extension/roll bar to the bed out of .080 styrene as well.

Here’s the Travolta-Bird and OBS Chevys with the now finished Charger Convertible on the table at the club meeting last weekend.

Looks great, but should it even have a drive shaft if it’s a SEMA build?! ?

Geez, you scared me, had me thinking that Isky had passed!

Our club project for ‘24 is that everyone has to build the 2nd Gen Ford Raptor snap kit from Revell, is there anything aftermarket available for these? I know it’s a snapper, but that chassis plate thoroughly lacking here!

This is very true, I do have to wonder what an innovative crew chief would come up with to make their EV faster and/or run longer, maybe hide extra batteries or some capacitors somewhere in the car that can me activated by a hidden switch, wire resistors into things that may trick the ECU into not seeing as much voltage and sending more battery power to the motor, maybe specially wound motors or more potent magnets that would be hard to tech…..

One thing that is bugging me about this car, Did Steve Scott use Beetle torsion bars for the front suspension on the Uncertain-T? I can’t see anything like leaves or coils of any time in the pics of the real car or model kit, just a tube on the frame behind the axle the what appears to be arms that run from that to the front axle.

They get put broken up and usable cells get sold off and used in converted vehicles, house batteries for when there are power outages (like Tesla’s Power Wall batteries), ect then those that aren’t reusable get recycled. Here’s a Car and Driver article from last June. https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a44022888/electric-car-battery-recycling/ You do realize that those tube frames are far stronger than an actual production body in white when properly designed and using the appropriate materials, right? Wouldn’t matter what the source is propulsion is, the proper design will help absorb the impact and distribute the force of the impact through the structure of the car than into the meat bags in the vehicle. Don’t see how a 5k-6k EV would be worse than the same weight fuel burning vehicle, especially a truck or SUV or say a Chevy Bolt vs my Chrysler 200 since the Bolts weight about the same as a 2011-2014 Chrysler 200/Dodge Avenger with the V6 like I have.

This has been a fantastic car, though it has acquired a few repairs and minor mods over the years, but upgrading the brakes and tires fixed the only real complaints l’ve had about the platform.

Well, my 200 hit 145k on the way to have dinner with Dad tonight, will have owned it for 12 years in April and the car hit 12 years old back in December.

Here’s an older EV crash with an Audi E-Tron SUV, ran a light and clipped a car that had the right of way. The battery broke free of the vehicle and slid into the median as the vehicle cartwheeled into someone’s front lawn.

Good timing on finishing that too, just saw an ad for Season 2!

Haven’t been able to do much paintwork on these two due to the weather, unfortunately and they’re just hanging out in the back ground of my latest Travolta-Bird ZL-1 build pics.