Warren D

It would have to be totally scratch built. I have a Gulfcraft whale watch boat I started 20 years ago that still isn't finished so the odds of me completing a locomotive before I die are pretty slim.

Just noticed I forgot to put the 5th wheel plate on.....oh well, guess I'll have to take new pics!

Maine Locomotive and Machine runs a Mack R688ST. They haul their 2 foot gauge steam locomotive to some regional shows as well as other things relating to steam locomotives and boilers. I saw the rig again at the largest model train show in the Northeast US 3 weeks ago, where they set up their 2 footer on a section of track outside the building. The Mack was parked off to the side and having the AMT R685ST kit doing nothing I decided why not? The 688 has a 350hp engine and this one has an elongated left side fuel tank. The real one has some lettering beneath the MLM logo on the door presumably from the previous owner which is peaking out above and below. The model has an E7 from Auslowe, 1/4 fenders cut down from Auslowe fenders and a few scratch parts.

Off to a great start!

Nor with a DD6-72 under the hood! I'm running low on Brockway cabs, hope the AITM line re-surfaces soon.

looks good!

Haven't decided yet. I'll probably use the chassis from the Transtar 4300 and I have yet to crack that box open. I need to see if I can do a single rear axle or else I'll need to "borrow" the SD from the Freightshaker DD/SD kit. The company usually has 10 hole chrome front and back, they like a little bling so I'll probably go that direction.

Looks interesting.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply, it was a challenge.

You might also look at the lift axle, KFS is 1/24 and the first lift axle I did used one of those. It was way wider and needed narrowing.

After a few coats of primer and more sanding. This was actually a decent 3D print (compared to those that came from a now out of business vendor)

I think I have everything but as most every build to date has shown, I'm likely missing something......or I'll change something.....or the squirrels will get the better of me. Resin cab, 3D printed tank. DD V6 from the late Gary Wallace. I'm planning on doing it up in the colors of my oil service company. I don't think they used any GMC but this will be what it would have looked like if they did.

Thanks, that should do it. The instructions are less than clear for part #7.

Agreed, but the paint on the General in part 2 is nice!

I'm having trouble figuring out how the battery box brackets mount to the frame. Does the rear bracket sit on top of the front cab bracket or to the rear of it? Thanks in advance?

I used 11x22's on my General wrecker. I seem to prefer the larger wheels/tires, the 10x20's always seem to look too small.

Smokey and the Bandit pt 2?

Thanks, I found the tech manual on line and have it download.

Here is the list of issues so far. As seen in the first photo, the wooden side boards for the front of the bed are taped down which has put a bad twist in it. Still fighting it trying to get it straight. The axle positions aren't clear and provided info seems wrong. The front axle is the longest, the other 2 are almost the same and the longer of the rear ones needs to be trimmed to match. The front axle is too wide, must be trimmed to get the proper track width. My kit was missing the driveshaft from the transfer case to the rear-most axle, I had to make my own from tube stock. The bed is slightly warped, I was able to get most of it out when I attached the tailgate. Front bed supports needed trimming so bed sits level on frame. The supports for the 50 cal ring mount don't have an accurate location, and if located where they appear on the real CCKW don't seem long enough. There isn't any template or info for the cargo bows, wire is included but no bending info. Reference to real trucks is required. The sideboards for the driver's side bed are too short, the posts don't align with the cast pockets on the bed. By the time you get to the back it's noticably off. Cab needs a lot of fitting, it sits too far aft. The interior floor needs to be trimmed to allow the cab to move forward. Watch the fenders on the cab, they are very thin and will break easily. One of mine was cracked when I took it out of the box. I've built 2 complete trucks from resin parts/kits (AITM B85 logger and AITM Rubber Duck Mack) so I'm not exactly new to this.

Interesting build. Sounds like the resin may not have cured, next time try filling with superglue. I've had decent luck with that but it's really tough to sand, you have to be careful as the resin is softer. Glass should be easy, all the windows look flat so clear sheet should work fine.

I think mine will be a GMC Topkick home heating oil delivery truck. I'll post pics when I start the WIP Build thread. (Still waiting on some parts, after the supply issues of the last few years, I've decided not to start a project unless I have everything I need in hand).

Looks good, the thing that amazes me is the smoothness of the stack, I can't say I've seen anything 3D printed that smooth.

Looks good!

Spent the last 2 hours trying to figure out the axle placement. If I go by the instructions and photos provided, the front axle appears too short and the rear axle is way too long. I have now decided to ignore the instructions and parts key and swap the front for the rear. I need to narrow the rear axle by 6/40 (I use an engineer's scale at 40 scale for modelling) and I think that will sort things out.

According to the paperwork that came with the kit, wheelbase is 145"