Anglia105E

Thank you Carl . . . This is an old build . . . March 2023 (nearly 6 months). David

The roof area of the Hudson body has been wet sanded, and this time I have used a circular motion of the wet & dry paper, rather than sanding lengthways. The sanding was only down as far as the light grey primer, so just removing the black paint. Then I applied three coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black, with five minutes in between coats. When I did a visual check after overnight drying, I was pleased with the high gloss finish. Leaving the body for a 5 days curing period before polishing compound is applied, I am working on the interior of the model. There will be no further clear applied over the black this time, as I am hoping the polishing will bring out the required finish. David

This is one of your best dioramas Charles . . . So much to take in at one look, so I will go back through your photos to discover more! The three trees coming together, form the resting place for the vehicle, and the real tree stump is perfect as a base for the whole scene. Where did you manage to find a SWB Land Rover model, as they all seem to be the LWB version ? David

Okay thanks . . . The convertible kit is different I see. David

I am liking the front end and rear end chrome work Steve, which you must be pleased with . . . just one question, there are two different front grille parts in the Moebius kit box . . . which one is more suitable for a 1953 Hudson Hornet model ? David

Your experienced eye has spotted the orange peel effect Steve, and you are absolutely right . . . my next task is to keep wet sanding. As you mentioned, those edges need caution, and even though I would have to burn through 6 layers of paint to reach bare plastic I must go steady ! David

Well I've reached the stage where the Hudson body panels have had two coats of primer, two coats of black, followed by two coats of clear. After six days allowing the clear to cure, I have applied the three grades of Tamiya Polishing Compound. Now the puzzling result is this . . . The hood has a high gloss black surface, while although the roof of the body does have a glossy black surface, I would not describe the finish as high gloss. The same procedure was used for both the hood and the roof, in terms of number of coats, drying time between coats and the clear coating method also. As you probably know, photographing black cars is quite difficult, so my attached photos might not show the result as clearly as I would like. The hood does not quite have a ' mirror ' finish, but it is the best that I have achieved so far, while the roof is not as good. David

Your interior looks good Steve, and that is where I am at with my Hudson build right now. David

Thanks David M., and that is indeed the stock ride height . . . I would not think of lowering a Hudson ! The rolling chassis is simply clipped into place within the body shell, which was awaiting clear coat when this photo was taken. David W.

The Hudson engine is almost completed, with just one or two minor details to add. There is now a rolling chassis, including front and rear suspension, steering and drive shaft, as well as the exhaust system. As regards the body shell, this has been treated to a couple of coats of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer Light Gray, and also two coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black . . . Today I have applied two coats of Tamiya TS-13 Clear over the black paint. This will be allowed to cure for the next five days or so, before I apply the Tamiya Polishing Compounds, in three grades of Coarse, Fine and Finish. Next up, according to the instruction sheet is the interior of the car . . . I have decided on Tan as the colour scheme, in two shades. For this I shall be using Humbrol brushed enamel Matt 62 Leather, and Humbrol brushed enamel Matt 63 Sand, which will have Humbrol Satin Varnish sprayed over afterwards. David

The two air cleaner canisters have been mounted onto the twin carburettors today, and glued in place. I need to apply the Twin-H decals onto these. There will be two further fuel pipes added shortly, using the 0.3 mm brass wire. I shall use the following museum photo as a reference. Work is progressing on the chassis frame parts, with the floor pan getting a coat of grey primer, and the chassis has a coat of black primer. David

Excellent Steve . . . That's what we want, a ready supply of FREE model building materials . . . All sorts of disposable items that are destined for the rubbish pile can be utilsed for our hobby. I could see the old 3D printer and the old phone would just be thrown away. Far better to make use of the parts. David

I wasn't happy with the 0.3 mm brass wire for the ignition / plug leads, so I stripped some wire out of the scrap 3D printer, but it was too thick at 1.00 mm. Then I found an old phone which yielded some lengths of wire when I dismantled the phone. With a choice of four colours, I settled on the yellow wire. The plug leads are now glued in place, and I added a fuel pipe between the carburettors. I might add some further fuel piping and other details. Next up is the fitting of the two air cleaner canisters, along with their decals. I realise that I am more interested in building the engine than I am in building the car itself ! David

Having seen first hand how good these Moebius kits are Gary, I shall probably be on the lookout for a Chrysler 300B at some point. David

Thanks David E. . . . I am pleased to say that the red enamel paint has now dried, after 4 days . . . (normally 24 hours). Those pointed cotton swabs by Tamiya sound like an interesting option, so I will look into that. David

I would say go for the kit at the hobby shop Bob, and you won't be disappointed. It is so enjoyable to build. David

Thanks Carl . . . I regard Hudson motor cars as the Rolls-Royce of American motor cars. David

Okay thanks . . . Fair enough David

Thank you Steven Guthmiller . . . I fully expected the sharp pointed needle to remove the BMF from the surface of the delicate script, but by some miracle the BMF was unharmed . . . My main concern was that a cotton bud, or indeed the sharpened tip of a toothpick, would cause thinners to drip onto the trunk bodywork in between the actual script. I am notoriously clumsy when it comes to this aspect of model building, and even with great care I was expecting to make a mess of things. Certainly, I would agree that the soft wood is more forgiving than a metal tipped tool. Somehow, I have removed two coats of black paint and two coats of primer to reveal the BMF script. Do you have any thoughts on the Humbrol red enamel paint not drying after 3 days ? Much of my painting is with Humbrol products applied by brush. Thanks, David

Thanks Steve Martin . . . I do realise that a sharp pointed needle is not the ideal tool for this job, amd I have probably been lucky to get away with it ! David

Well guys, there has been some progress with this Hudson, and I have to confess to something that goes against all of the advice offered recently. I considered using a cotton bud dampened with Isopropyl Alcohol to reveal the trunk script . . . and then I lost my nerve ! I then considered using the rounded tip of a cocktail stick / toothpick, again dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol, but again I could not do it . . . What I decided to do, and you may throw your hands up in horror . . . I carefully used the point of a long needle to scrape away the paint from the BMF underneath. This seemed to work quite well, although I was holding my breath through each letter of the script. The BMF does not appear to be damaged. Moving on to wire up the engine ignition, I have not been able to find my grey plug lead wire, despite an exhaustive search of the loft space. I am certain that I have some, but it remains hidden. I thought about ordering a new pack, which is very cheap, but the shipping cost is six times the cost of the item. Then I found some 0.3 mm brass wire, which compares nicely with the 0.4 mm plastic wire that I used for my previous Hudson engine. The brass wire will have to be painted grey or black, and I have drilled holes where the spark plug tips were. I cannot drill the distributor cap, even using the smallest of three Revell hand drill bits. Both air cleaner canisters are coated with Humbrol 19 Gloss Enamel Red, but after 3 days the paint remains too tacky to handle the parts. Might have to spray some gloss enamel varnish over the Humbrol red enamel . . . Outside temp has been 20°C and the window is often open. Why not drying? Oh, one last thing . . . I cut off the pin that locates the oil filter onto the engine block, with careless use of my sprue cutters. Drilled a hole in the oil filter bowl and cut off a short piece of a drawing pin, which was super glued in place. The metal pin fits tightly into the hole on the block. David

You are doing a great job with this '52 Hudson Hornet convertible Steve, and I am currently building my second '53 Hudson Hornet, also by Moebius. The quality and fit of these 1:25 scale Moebius kits is excellent, and they have managed to go one better than the other big kit manufacturers. Just the instruction sheet alone is a lesson to show how model car kit instructions should be done. Glossy photos, clear step by step text and accurate assembly diagrams. I am finding the instruction sheet a joy to follow. Your plan to have the lower half of the car matching the red interior should be highly effective Steve . . . You were lucky to pick up this kit, albeit under sad circumstances. Although the '53 Hudson is my favourite for some reason, I would like to build a '52 and also a '54 later. David

While paint is drying and curing on the body parts of the Hudson, the engine is being assembled and painted. Apart from the fitting of the oil and air filters, as well as the decals for the Twin H Power air filter canisters, and some ignition wiring the engine is almost ready to put to one side. So far, I am enjoying building this second Hudson Hornet as much as I did the first one . . . The Moebius instruction sheet is a joy to follow ! David

I have not heard of Touchwood Models, Harald . . . This is going to be an exciting project of yours ! The 43° incline of the track is quite something. I shall be following your progress with interest . . . David

Lots of blue bits on the Cosworth V6 in that Ford Sapphire . . . Does that say ' Massey Haggis ' on the front of the Massey Ferguson ? David