Anglia105E

Availability would not be a problem Paul, but I can see a problem with those switches, in terms of how they would suit my build . . . The body of the switch needs to be inserted into the base, which in my case is only 5 mm foam board. That would place more than half the body of the switch inside the room below. Most of the switch would be visible as you look up at the ceiling from inside the room of the model bungalow . . . I agree that these switches would be good for a car, truck or industrial equipment application, but not really for scale model use. Thanks for the suggestion anyway Paul, and I reckon these coin cell battery holders will be fine, once they are mounted on the ceiling panel top. Only the lamps are visible from inside the rooms, while the switches and terminal blocks are hidden from view, on the topside of the ceiling panel. David

Using the same method as with the living room, the kitchen ceiling lamp was fitted in the same way . . . Tonight there were three further lamps fitted, these being the bathroom, the hallway and bedroom one. All five lamps were wired up to the first of two terminal blocks, and then tested for switching on and off . . . There are three more rooms to light up, these being bedroom two, bedroom three and the garage . . . I think I shall most likely not have the strip of wood for the battery holders, but instead mount the battery holders / switches directly onto the top surface of the ceiling panel, and also mount the two terminal blocks onto the ceiling panel. This will require a cutout aperture in the baseboard of the roof structure above, to allow the roof to sit correctly over the switches and blocks . . . I used a gold Sharpie to give each switch a letter, indicating L for Living Room, K for Kitchen, B for Bathroom, H for Hallway, B1 for Bedroom 1, B2 for Bedroom 2, B3 for Bedroom 3 and G for Garage . . . David

The eight lamps, resistors and wiring arrived today . . . These resistors are only required if using 12V DC model railway voltage, and reducing to 3V, but I am using 3V coin cell batteries as my power supply anyway. The lamps are quite nice, but they have a couple of bends in the tubing, and also a screw that is fixed to the tubing with something strong. Setting up the living room lamp to get things started this morning, I found that by having a good sized hole in the ceiling panel the wiring and the screw head could pass through from underneath, and then by bending the tubing carefully the lamp pushed into the hole . . . Once wired up to the terminal block, this first of eight lamps lit up nicely. The Ebay photos were a bit misleading, and the wires are not that long, which means the terminal blocks will most likely have to be mounted inside the roof of the bungalow . . . I am toying with the idea of cutting the 12 port terminal block into 6 separate blocks of two ports, so one for each pair of wires that feed each lamp. Not sure if this will happen just yet . . . I could then do the same with the second terminal block, to provide two blocks of two ports, feeding eight lamps. The photos taken later today have turned out pretty good, particularly the ones taken through the French doors. The furniture looks real and Harold appears to be part of the room . . . It will be necessary to cut out sections of the roof structure baseboard to accommodate the bends in the tubing of the lamps, and possibly the terminal blocks as well. Although the wiring is a bit tricky, I should be able to figure out the best way of doing this . . . David

Today I managed to wire up six of the eight battery holders, with all twelve ports on the terminal block screwed tightly . . . Also, having thought about the wiring coming out of the back of the bungalow where the two sets of French doors are, I think it would be better to have the sixteen wires making their exit on the long side of the bungalow, where there are three windows . . . As well as providing more space for the wooden switch panel and the two terminal blocks, I came up with the idea to cover the switch panel and the blocks with a sheet of green felting material. This green felt can simulate a grassy area, as well as hiding the wiring components from view . . . David

Well, surprisingly the first of the two Ebay deliveries arrived today ( Monday ) . . . The pack of ten battery holders with switches are as expected, and I found a suitable piece of wood strip to mount the battery holders onto. Also, I purchased a nylon terminal block locally that has 12 ports to it. Later, I was wiring up one of the battery holders and I realised that each of the eight holders would need two ports on the terminal block, so I shall need 16 ports. A second terminal block can easily be purchased . . . I already have 8 coin cell batteries, plus the 10 battery holders, and shortly the two terminal blocks, so now I am awaiting the arrival of the 8 LED lamps . . . I am fairly confident that this arrangement of the room lights should work . . . we shall see ! David

It has been decided that Harold's car for the bungalow garage is going to be this 1958 Ford Popular in black. This is because the 1955 Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud is simply too large for the garage, and the car would not fit properly through the doors. Harold does have several classic cars in his collection, and the other cars are secure storage, some distance away from his bungalow . . . David

As far as I know, until they arrive, these LED lights are not adjustable . . . The CR2032 coin cell batteries last a long time, especially when these room lights will only be switched on for a short time, such as when taking photos of the interior detail. The Ebay seller was listed as being located in London, but the product is actually being shipped from Schenzhen in China . . . David W.

I have gone ahead and placed two orders on Ebay, which should be delivered during the back end of next week . . . The first order is comprised of 8 lamps that are intended for model railway use. These lamps are 3 volt and include resistors for 12V use, with a generous length of wiring. The second order is comprised of 10 battery holders with switches, that will each hold a CR2032 coin cell battery of 3V . . . These battery holders also have a generous amount of wiring included. This arrangement of lighting should allow me to have each of the eight rooms lit individually, so switched on or off for each room. The lamps can be mounted on the underside of the foam board ceiling panel, while the wiring will be concealed on the top side of the ceiling panel, and the battery holders / switches can be located outside the bungalow provided the length of wiring allows this . . . For ease of use, I can label each switch to indicate which room it corresponds to. The first of the following photos shows the living room with one of my existing lighting kits set up. I think the ones that are on order should be more effective. David

The old rusty Land Rover is consumed by the undergrowth . . . I like the detail under the bonnet inside the engine compartment, and something such as the two lamp lenses being intact on the driver's side front wing, but having the two lamp lenses missing on the passenger side front wing is the kind of detail that really stands out for me personally, Charles . . . David

Thanks David G., and those low angle photos were taken just inside the Velux window that looks out over neighbouring properties from my loft . . . They show the chimney stacks of other cottages, as a sort of comparison with my 3D printed chimney stack. I shall have a good look at model railway type lighting kits on Ebay, and also Woodland Scenics as suggested by Steve . . . Good luck with your Golden Hind build ! David W.

Thank you for the link Steve, and I agree with you that lighting units from the model railway suppliers might be the best way to go . . . The few lighting units that I do have, are left over from previous projects and they are not entirely suitable for this 1:43 scale / O-gauge bungalow model. David

Excellent choice of paint colours there David, and the mockup was worth setting up to evaluate your current progress. As regards the rigging lines, the only aspect of model building that I have tried that comes close would be the tram lines for my 1:35 scale European Tram Car. For those overhead tram lines I did use the thinnest styrene rod that I could get, from either Plastruct or Evergreen, but I seem to remember experimenting with cotton thread and also steel wire . . . The cotton thread would most likely work best for your rigging lines, but you have a lengthy tedious task in store ! See photo below . . . David W.

Thanks Paul . . . Six months on this build so far, and as the project goes into month seven we arrive at quite an advanced stage . . . When the ceiling panel and the roof structure are lifted clear of the lower rooms assembly, the interior detail is visible, but of course once the roof and ceiling are lowered into position those rooms are in darkness . . . This is why I would like to rig up some lighting for each room. At the moment it is the routing of the wires, the bulbs and the batteries that needs to be given some thought . . . Mains electric lighting would be an option, but keeping the main supply cable out of view for photography later is the tricky part. Bulbs can be inserted through holes in the ceiling panel, which is of foam board construction, and immediately above the ceiling panel is the baseboard panel of the roof structure. The roof structure is a closed space, unless I decide to open up an access panel of some kind . . . Here is a simple sketch . . . David

During today the furniture and fittings for the bungalow model were moved from the downstairs workbench, and upstairs to the workbench in the loft . . . These parts have all been assembled or scratch built and painted, ready to be placed in their respective rooms. Some parts are intended for outside locations, such as the greenhouse, deck chairs, post box (mail box), telephone box, dustbin (refuse bin) and ladder . . . The furniture and fittings have been loosely arranged inside each room, and so far I have super glued the fridge freezer to the floor and wall in the corner of the kitchen, as well as the wash basin in the bathroom . . . Having added some styrene support pads to the base of the chimney stack, this is now firmly glued in place on top of the roof, and it looks pretty good . . . David

The short length of guttering near to the front entrance porch has been fitted, along with the downpipe and a third grate at the base . . . Also, the longest fascia board is now in place, from the front gable end to the rear gable end. This has a length of guttering, which is made up of two pieces. I found time to do some test fitting of the chimney stack, and by drawing a sketch I was able to establish the intended route of the chimney breast. The living room fireplace, as shown in one of the following photos, lines up with the centre of the window frame, and the chimney breast rises up to the chimney stack off to the left hand side. This places the chimney stack close to the end of the high roof ridge on the right hand side . . . The kitchen fireplace backs onto the one in the living room, so both share the same chimney breast. David

The entire centre joint appeared to be seriously out of alignment at the stern of this sailing ship, and you have dealt with this very effectively. I suspect many model builders would not relish the challenges involved with this kit, and many would put it back in the box and abandon it . . . Full marks to you David for your perseverance and determined mindset to overcome the defects of this particular kit . . . David W

Your comments are always welcome, and you usually have an interesting angle on some aspect of my build, which then sets me thinking . . . I searched high and low, but I could find no trace of the downpipe, and it was indeed my first attempt. I managed to make the second one by eye also. Once these gutters, downpipes and grates are all done I can turn my attention to the furniture and fittings of the interior rooms. The lengthy and extensive work on the roof structure has meant that the rooms have been covered the whole time . . . David W.

Two further downpipes will be positioned in the corners, and these each have a grate at their base. The grates are actually 1:35 scale MiniArt parts that are Made in Ukraine . . . Each grate is nicely moulded in two parts, and the scale is so close to 1:43 scale that the difference is acceptable. The fascia boards are glued in place and ready for painting, while the guttering lengths and the downpipes have been coated in black marker pen. Working on the back wall of the garage, as well as the wall along the outside of the small bedroom and the living room. Once the back wall of the living room has been done, there remains only the longest side wall of the bungalow, which is the one that has the two gable ends . . . David

Over the past few days I have cleared the table top in the loft and moved the bungalow model from the downstairs room. The temperature is in the high twenties inside the loft, even with the Velux window fully open . . . During the moving of the bungalow model, tools and materials two floors up in my house, the downpipe with the double bend somehow went missing, and has completely vanished. I set about making a second downpipe, which turned out as well as the first one, so this is now glued in place. The guttering has been fitted along the side of the garage, the downpipe is connected and I checked to make sure that the ceiling panel and roof structure are both seating nicely in relation to the gutters. Here are some photos showing today's progress . . . Thanks for following my topic guys. David

Both front and rear gable ends have had two coats of white acrylic, and these have been PVA glued in place . . . The side of the garage now has fascia boards ready for the guttering, and I am allowing the paint on the fascia boards to dry overnight . . . Multiple pieces of balsa square rod were used to bring the guttering away from the wall of the bungalow, in order to line up with the lower edge of the roof. David

Those photos of the Ontario plate ' Turbo 36 ' are nice high resolution images to work from Pat, and I was wondering if the Y-block turbo engine would have been part of the AMT kit, or is this an aftermarket addition ? David

Thank you Potaka . . . There are many interior fittings and furniture ready to go into their respective rooms, once the roof structure has been completed . . . David

Yes Paul, I am thinking that some landscaping would be good . . . This could be static grass, as I do have the materials and the applicator tool. Maybe some lengths of wooden fencing as well . . . David

I managed to fabricate a double bend in the downpipe for the side of the garage . . . This was done by cutting the tubing at an angle by eye, twice and somehow I got it right ! . . . The lower section was joined using super glue, which didn't seem to work particularly well with the Evergreen styrene tubing. For the upper section of the downpipe I used Revell Contacta adhesive and this did a better job . . . Harold had to bring out his ladder to get this downpipe sorted out properly. The downpipe joints have been left to set for a while, and then they can be given a coating of black marker pen, along with the next length of guttering. David

Here are some photos of the bungalow model, taken just inside the Velux window in the loft, showing the guttering and one of the downpipes . . . To make the downpipe mounting brackets I have used some short lengths of black cable tie, which is the type that has a strand of wire along the centre. David