TECHMAN

MIKE Not certain about how many other kits they are in, but the AMT Double Dragster kit comes with them, and they are chrome...... DJ

GUYS, Don't know if you have an OLLIE'S near you or not, but some of the ones here in Central Kentucky, have had a 1/24 scale tractor kit for $12.99, might be your cheapest bet...... Hope that helps.... DJ

HARRY Guess you never got the PM, if you still need the seat(s), need mailing info PM'd to me, if not, please advise. THX DJ

SEVERAL early AMT kits, also had them. The one pictured shows to have "rail type" mounts on the bottom of the seat, the double dragster had two "indentions" in the bottom of the seat to mount to "locating points" that were molded into the frame. Double dragster seat can be made to duplicate what he pictured by using some Evergreen (or scrap) plastic to build the runners.... DJ

My first 55 Chevy was in 1966, Power Pac 265, 3spd overdrive on the column, 2 door hardtop. FIRST thing I did was bought a floorshift conversion kit (a cheapie from our local Western Auto). It had no "positive stops" (as I said, CHEAPIE) and within a few weeks of abuse, had "killed" the o/d tranny...... Went to local wrecking yard, was sold a "heavy duty" 3-spd trans for $35....... Few more weeks of abuse, dead tranny again (think was bending the shift forks inside the transmissions, but wasn't smart enough to pull apart to see. One of my mentors "made me" buy a decent shifter along with the next transmission, problem solved!!! Was a Hurst from Honest Charlie's ($49 as I remember correctly). Those were GOOD OLD DAYS!!!!!😊 DJ ps: last 3-on-the-tree was a 1964 A100 Dodge Pickup (the little cabover model) 225 cubic inch 6, and 4.10 rear end gears.... went NOWHERE in a hurry, but would pull just about anything you hooked it up to.

HARRY, Got several, PM me, and will send you 2/3....... DJ

If it turns out that the 1/16" is the right size, RON COON RESINS lists them, package of 8 for $1.20 Part# W36...... hope that helps..... DJ

Great job, one of my very favorite kits..... You have certainly built something to take pride in. 👍👍 DJ

Absolutely BEAUTIFUL!!!!!! One of the finest models I've seen built, and one of my favorite race teams. 👍👍 DJ

Last Jeep I had (1974 CJ5 bought in 1980 used) had a brand new set of L60/15's on 10 inch chrome "wagon spoke" rims, would NOT drive it at the first sign of rain, slung mud/dirt/trash all up and down the sides, and at any speed to speak of, clear up on the hood & top...... Went to one of the local "accessory shops", bought a nice set of black wrinkle finish fender flares, problem solved. Did not have the "Tonka-Toy" look, nor was it harsh on wheelbearings/hubs..... I like a lot of the aftermarket rim/tire combos, but not those..... Old fashioned, but, just me. If someone's choice is those, well, your money, your vehicle, your prerogative...... DJ

Just got off the phone with Mike...... Orange is on back-order thru his warehouse supplier....... He is able to order in single colors, but they only ship 6 bottles per color at a time, so his usual is to let it get down to three of a color, then reorder. Guess if it's on back-order, must be like Peter said, just waiting on the next production run before will be available again..... "Just a test of patience".....😉 DJ

If you like "doing it yourself" (and saving money), RON COON RESINS (roncoon,com) provides a couple different distributors, and some different magnetos at a VERY reasonable price, predrilled distributors are 75 cents each, predrilled mags are 69 cents each. Ignition wire is $5 for 10 feet, and available in yellow, red, blue, black, etc. An affordable alternative that's easy to work with, and really good looking stuff..... Hope that helps..... DJ

Wow!!!! At first glance, thought I was looking at photos of the real thing. Beautiful work. DJ

For several weeks now, have been trying to find (locally) the small bottles of Testor's Orange paint..... (we now live in central Kentucky)...... Local Hobby Lobby stores, no go, Hobbytown (Bowling Green) no go, yesterday the wife and I traveled to several different Hobby Lobbys in the region, no luck...... Is this "one of the things" that now comes out of China that's being delayed? Anybody got a clue?????? DJ

DAVE's castings were plenty sturdy enough to open the hoods.... Built the small cab 1953 GMC 530 conventional, and the LT Mack, opened both hoods without any problem. expect that Matt (name I was told) will be following in Dave's footsteps, so expect good things. DJ

Just an additional bit of information to this thread: Reopened a half empty bottle of Model Master enamel this afternoon, date code (by the hobby shop where I purchased it) was from 8/97, and with very little mixing, was still perfectly usable...... and just a couple of days ago, was digging a "plug" out of the top of a SEALED bottle of Testors (purchased about this time last year), sorta makes what BILL was saying about paints being "reformulated" in order to eliminate some old yahoo (like me) from being able to "still use the same product" after 28 years....😉 DJ

CARL So sorry to hear of your issues...... Will keep you in our prayers DJ

man with a GOOD heart!!!! 👍👍 DJ

Sorry to hear...... I had heated mine up to around 120-125` (where our hot-water heater is set) and no change...... Guess it's like BILL said, reformulation....... The new stuff is NOT the same quality as the old stuff.......☹️ DJ

Having ALWAYS had a "unique" sense of humor, sometimes have a habit of clicking on the t-shirt ads, in order to enlarge them (in order to read them), BUT, that doesn't mean that I want the "near porn" ads (that DAVE brought up) popping up in the middle of looking at someone's newest model car/truck creation. I have "found out the hard way" that you have to be careful of "what" you search for (wording can be EVERYTHING)........ For instance, had a brand new set of headers that I was going to sell as the car had a brand new set with it when it showed up, and they weren't needed as "shelf decor". Had grabbed the reducers out for another project, local warehouse was out, catalogs back at the shop across town, so, crank up the laptop to get the part number for the reducers....... HOOKER HEADERS, so, try Hooker Headers. Com., and end up with someone that had obviously hussled the name out from under the company in order to sell it back to them for "big bucks", so next try, oh yea, really!!!!), HOOKER.com. .......... "Stuff" started popping-up hundreds of times faster than I could attempt to block/delete it!!!!! Finally just "crashed" it off woth the power button..... Call #2 son (our family "I.T." guy), tell him I need his help, NOW!!!! After he finds out what I've done (and rolls on the floor laughing til tears), took him several minutes to clean up the mess..... All this to say: BE CAREFUL how you phrase what you are searching for using search engines!!!!! 😉 DJ ps: don't mind ads, just keep em "PG" rated 😊

Gotta agree with you 100% PETE, but as I said, "May only have been the area of the west coast where I grew up, or possibly those people I grew up around". Again, was not trying to add to the confusion, but only attempting to help see thru the confusion.....😉 DJ

Add me to the group that would like to see you build both versions. In my early/mid teens (60's), used to spend much of my summers with relatives in the LA area, and got to go to lots of races at Lion's & Irwindale. Was a GREAT time to grow up, and some of the coolest cars ever. Worked for IHRA, NHRA, IMCA, and multiple race facilities (as secondary income) for most of my adult life, and with that said, the cars from the 60's are STILL my favorites...... If you find the time, built them both!!!!!👍👍 DJ

SID, Not to "add to the confusion", but, technically, BILL IS CORRECT in that the front "inner fender wells" ARE a wheel well. May only have been the area of the west coast I grew up in, or possibly those people I grew up around, but, again, all that I had ever heard them called helped us distinguish between the fronts and the rears......😎 DJ

As to the "original" question: Front: all that I have ever heard these called was Fender wells (i.e.: Fenderwell outlet headers) which, some manufactures had painted a sort of semi-gloss black (many GM's for instance) and body-color on unibody cars (various Ford & Mopar come to mind)....... Rear: were always referred to as "wheel wells" (i.e.: radiused the wheel wells for tire clearance, Like building the old Gassers) and these could've ended up most any color from body-paint color, to undercoating, to mud....😉 Hope, maybe, this can help clear up some of the confusion, then some of the "advice" will help you to answer your original questions.....😊 DJ

I hadn't either.......BUT..... I had one that "sputtered" paint out, and, like BILL, had tried everything that "usually worked" (including heating the can) with all failed results. My "complaint" tho, also includes their little square bottles of brush paint. I have some that are 20yrs old (that were opened and resealed) that are still completely 'useable', while several of the recent purchased bottles, after a SHORT time, develop a thick "rubber film" on top, rendering them completely useless....... Took a phillips screwdriver and poked a hole in one, pulled the "rubber plug" off the top to get to "what was hiding underneath", tried thinning it down (as have done hundreds of times), few days later, same old nonsense. And yes, the top was sealed....... Any ideas????? DJ