R. Thorne

Thanks, Carl. Have a good day.

Thanks, Michael, it’s coming along, albeit slowly. Some wheel work front and back. Narrowed the aftermarket wheels from a scale 12” to about 9”, more appropriate for Stock Eliminator racing. Then drilled out the aftermarket disc brakes to fit the kit stubs. Then applied some Fusionfirm to the wheels. The wheel on the left had been painted with GreenStuffWorld and the right wheel is FusionFirm.

A belated thank you, Kevin. I am finally back on this build. “Painted” the driveshaft with one of my “new” acrylic markers. Also, the distributor cap and quadrajet carb. I then blocked out the Goodyear and blue stripes on the slicks. The markers make it easy and fast. Thank you, Chief Joseph, for your great carbs.

All of Brian Lohnes’s stuff are interesting and about as honestly factual as it gets. Required viewing for students of drag racing history. Some intriguing tractor stuff, too.

Thank you, gentlemen. Not my best work, but learned the value of assembling everything before paint. Especially with aftermarket resin bodies. These Mopars (awb and stock) are definitely addictive.

Thanks, guys.

Built using the Moebius Dave Strickler kit and a Fremont Rosins body. Not the best turnout, but suitable for the shelf and I learned a little about resin bodies. I had paint problems, made windshields from clear .005” styrene, but messed up the installation, sits too high, etc. This car was run in the mid sixties out of Fulton, Ky. and was a stripped down version. Further details and pics in the WIP section. Comments, criticisms, questions, are always welcomed.

Attaboy!

Just to be clear, I was referring to the side trim, which I removed on this in progress silver car. The golden commandos car does not have it, also. I believe this signifies a Savoy model like mine. OK, I promise not to interrupt any more.

Another consideration: the Flintstone body has the Belvedere trim to remove in order to resemble the Savoy versionand the SMH doesn’t appear to come with that trim.

Thanks, guess mine were simply boxed wrong. Sorry.

Well, I finished it. Messed up my windshields, didn’t go any farther on the lettering, it sits too high in the front, etc. On the bright side, it has an apt name from a modeling point of view. Put some fusionfirm on the tailights, will wait for that to dry, then post on the finished builds.

I am confused. The bodies I purchased on eBay a year ago were advertised as Jimmy Flintstone bodies. As you can see, they appear to look like the smh resin bodies. These were purchased from an individual, not Jimmy Flintstone directly. Perhaps they were packaged wrong. My point is: are you sure about the origins of your bodies?

Thanks for your input, guys. Finally got some free time to get some vinyl letters on.

One hour of foiling and that part is over.

Paint job is tolerable. I have learned (perhaps relearned) my lesson. If it ain’t shiny smooth before paint, it won’t be shiny smooth after the paint job. Resin bodies need lots of sanding (my least favorite part of this hobby). Cut out some .005” clear to install inside the windshields. Now, some Hasegawa chrome for the outside of the windshields.

Pushing the humidity factor, but, hey, sometimes we just have to climb out of the hole and move on. We shall see what she looks like after drying.

Put some primer on this afternoon. Hopefully, some black on tonight or tomorrow.

Some progress. Wet sanding with some 240, then 600, with my David Union sander. Then applied some putty to try and fix some scribing errors.

Well, it’s 3 years old now, but new when I used it the first time with the same results. I have used the 1000 and 1200 before with excellent results. When I applied the Tamiya, the shine was fine, but after sitting for a half hour or so, the finish went away. Anyway, from now on it will be Tamiya primer and Tamiya paint.

Well, at least the paint mystery has been solved. The 500 (grit) Mr. Surfacer does not like the Tamiya ts14 black. I had forgotten I sprayed the same thing 3 years ago on a 1965 Plymouth Stock Eliminator build with the oem style styrene body with the same results as the resin body now. I think the primer needs to go in the trash so I will never use it again. The first pic is 3 years ago and the 2nd is 2 weeks ago. I will be sanding for the next day or so.

Started working on the botched, mysterious, paint job. First, I tried just sanding the top with some 180 Dspiae pads, then 400, and 1000. Then, decided to remove the rest of the paint. The manufacturer of the body was kind enough to answer my question about removing the paint from his resin bodies. He recommended Westley bleach whyte, but he had never used lacquer paint. Since I have a variety of “tanks” , including the Westley’s, I soaked it overnight, with no effect, as I suspected. Then, a bath in the purple stuff with the same result. I was being over cautious, as I had never stripped a resin body before. Then I used what I knew would work (91% isopropyl alcohol), but only dunked it for 3 hours. Finally, success. Now I will sand the rest of the body as I believe the splotchiness in the paint job was due to a rough texture.

Installed firewall along with master cylinder and steering box with shaft. Then inner fenders (along with radiator and support), and interior side panels (at the same time as the dash) then roll bar.

Put the starter, oil filter, distributor, fan, fuel injector pump on the engine. Used a black sharpie on the injectors. Not a great job, but ok. Installed engine and headers.

Then I test fit the alignment hole on the crossmember. These drill bits are so handy. I “painted” the trans with my new AK aluminum marker. Sure speeds up the build time. Then, some FusionFirm on the trans pan, glued it on with the brush on ca glue, then used a black marker on the collector insides.