R. Thorne

Thanks, guys. First trial fit on the Revell 50 olds chassis.

Truly outstanding work. I am very familiar with this carb as I used them on the 53 Olds and, later on, my 1966 Chevelle 283 race car. The linkage, fuel inlet, choke housing, and four center vents are, of course, dead on. Thank you for making these available. Got a little done. Cut off the 2 barrel seat on the manifold. Will build a short 4 barrel stand for the carb to set on. Worked on the 50 Olds frame and the rims.

Nice work. Curiosity got the better of me. Will you use the “NASCAR” four barrel version? If you’re not familiar with it, Arvid Svendsen’s nice article on HotRod.com has 92 pictures that might help.

Scrounged up some engine parts from miscellaneous amt parts packs. Then dug out the Rochester 4GC that I got last year from Texas 3D custom. The most realistic 4GC I have seen and the size looks good even though it is supposed to be 1/24 scale.

Have fun! Great Lindberg kits. Errr, the stockers can be addictive.

Wow! Beautiful! You sure do good work with my kind of cars. Suggestions for the next build: smaller plug wires and “connect “ the exhaust pipes to the headers. Hard to tell from the pictures, but most people in those days had them bolted to the headers.

This from MCW:

Some of the mcw resin kit’s parts. As that engine is coupled to a stick shift (my car was an automatic), I am using the engine from the Revell Club Coupe kit and may also use some parts from the Olds Custom kit.

Speaking of bit by bit, some small progress on the body. Sanded off the hood ornaments. Tedious sanding, but necessary. A look at the great instructions in the box. Next major body work is to turn it into a 4 door sedan.

If you are considering Dspiae tools, by the way I have had good results (and better prices) dealing with the Dspiaestore.

Thanks, I’ll need it. Almost all of my models serve as “memory joggers “ and have a connection to the past. Yes, i plan on purchasing a 57 Chevy resin truck in the near future. I also have plans for a 1963 Dodge lcf that I used later on.

I have ordered from them for a couple of years with good results. Back in November of ‘23, one order had not been shipped in a couple of weeks. I contacted them, they responded quickly, and the order was shipped in 2 days. I do understand your reluctance. Tools are mainly what I have ordered. Most of the time I prefer to deal with Scalehobbyist or Hobbylinc.

Actually, mild customizing was legal then. You’ll note my car (and Jack’s, too) don’t have the hood ornaments on them. Some more work on the flashing. What works pretty good is scribing with a hobby knife, then breaking off with some small needlenose pliars.

Couldn’t resist a pic of Jack Mullins’s 53 Olds (stick shift, 165 hp) at Indy. Another friend of mine. Now, on to the model. This is what I started with. I am planning to convert it to a 4 dr model. A lot of thick flash to remove, but I am getting there. Whoops, missed Jack’s pic.

First, some pics of the car taken around 1965-1971, then a Car Craft article from 1969 detailing what it would take to build an Nhra legal Oldsmobile Stock Eliminator car. In the second pic, I am racing against a 1953 Hudson owned by Gary Ellard, a friend of mine. This was at an airport in Sturgis, Ky. (Note the hay bales used as guard rails). Next post will begin the actual build.

Another thoughtful, accurate, respectful build. Thanks for posting. As I build a lot of NHRA class cars, realistic looking headers are usually the toughest thing to find.

Thanks, Larry.

Thanks, guys. I try to point out the good and bad parts of my builds.

Thanks, guys. It was an unusual kit.

Nothing extraordinary here, just an interim build for fun. Tamiya spray can, no primer, Hasegawa chrome trim. Biggest gripe was the chassis/interior fit. Also, discovered too late a body warpage on the front windshield that complicated things. Some fiddly bits, but a fantastic engine, trans, and rear end that made up for it. More details are in my WIP section. As always, critiques good and bad, suggestions, questions, are appreciated.

Ca glued some small stuff on today to complete this learning experience. Finished pics in the Under Glass section.

Slow going on this build, for some reason. Cut out a hunk of styrofoam after spilling my little kicker bottle. Tried to ca glue the front of the frame on, but came back 5 minutes later and it had come loose. Decided to remove the paint with some paint remover and q-tips. Then put regular cement on with a nice clamp I “borrowed “ from the kitchen. Will let it dry overnight. So, decided to install the rear tailights and bumper. After installing, I noticed the clamping of the front end had dropped the rear frame down away from the bumper. Grrr. Took them off and put ca glue on with a nice big clamp. Yes, I realize the poor fit of the chassis is due to the windshields being too thick. Hopefully, that issue can be circumvented with the clamps and glue. Time to quit for the day.

Decided to use some thickened Future floor polish that I had made 5 or 6 years ago. I had forgotten about it. It was almost too thick because it was old, but it worked quite well. Mounted trunk emblem, headlight and tailight lenses with it and a toothpick. This is the high tech tool I used to install the headlight lenses (broken toothpick with funtac installed on end).

Some small stuff today. Chrome pen for the sides, semi gloss black for the grill, red testors enamel for the headlight surrounds, and the miscellaneous stuff to apply it.