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ShakyCraftsman

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Everything posted by ShakyCraftsman

  1. Hey all Well I decided to go with a Brodix BBC from 3d specialties, simulating a 750 cu. In. motor. Went with the twin turbos 3", 26" Goodyear front runners, Billet Specialties Win lite rear wheels and Billet Specialties Win lite front wheels. I started on the drawings of the chassis and the fit of the body. I had to do a drawing of the bbc motor and turbo set-up, basically I have to figure out how to plumb this sucker!! BOY o BOY is it tight. The turbos end up right behind the front bumper and the exhaust wants to dump right into the front tires. Have to do some weird plumbing to get all of it to fit. I have a lot of work to get this ready for building. I will try to get some pics of the drawings tomorrow. Have to go wife's calling for dinner. Thanks RonG
  2. Hey all Just an update, no new pics, but I did get the frame/chassis painted. It's not quite what I hoped for, there's a few flob-ups but they are fixable. I have most of the nuts and bolts attached to the engine and rear end assembly. I am waiting for the paint to dry so I can take some more pictures. So as soon as it's dry I'll get some pics taken. Thanks RonG
  3. Hey AC I'm not sure which kit you need, but I had a real 64 Galaxie tri-power 390, same as a 427 block, and had the factory 2 into 2 into 2 cast headers, very hard to get. I was cleaning them up so I could get them ceramic coated, and was filling a pot mark with a torch bracing in the little divot. AND...BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH...I blew thru the wall and ended up with a about a 1" hole...*%#¿☆♤#...boy was I pissed. The point I'm trying to make is I ended up having to use race headers for a 427. They were individual tubes that went into a collector, that I had to putty up with some asepstos goop to get em to seal, what a pain in the rump. They had to be that way because 2 of pipes were in front of the front cross member and 2 were behind it. Maybe you could simulate that set-up. RonG
  4. Hey Sky Thanks, I try to do my best, but I have to improve on my painting technic. Here's a few more pictures of the chassis, motor and wheels and tires. This is a test fit to make sure I could get to all of the nuts and bolts that hold the front and rear suspension in place. Yes there bolted on!This is a overall shot of the whole assembly, remember it's only temporary.This view shows the front spring attaching points, I still need to trim the bolts to length.Here you can see front attaching points for the rear 4-link bars.This view shows the upper coil over mounting points and the pan hard bar attachment point to the frame.View showing the clearance of the front tire to the header. There's still lots more that needs to be done. I broke one of the tie rod ends, they were plastic and pretty flimsy I kinda thought they were going to give up the ghost...lol. I'm going to replace them with metal ones as soon as my order from RB Motion gets here. So look em over and let me know what you think. All comments are appreciated. Thanks RonG
  5. Hey all Here's some more pics of the front axle assembly finished, except for the mounting of the wheels and tires.Front view of the axle assembly.View showing the passenger side of the front spindle.Closer view of the front caliper and leaf spring u-bolts.Close up shot of the u-bolts and nuts.View from the rear showing the tie rod connecting bracket.View from the bottom front to back. So look em over and let me know what you think Thanks RonG
  6. Hey Dave Yeah I know, I noticed that when I zoomed up on the photos too. I was hoping the paint would cover them, but live and learn. Thanks RonG
  7. Hey all Here's some more pics to look at. View of the front of the engine.Side view of the engine the valve covers have the tubes for the spark plugs and the spark plugs.Shot of the starter and oiloil pan. If you look closely you can see the inspection cover for the fly wheel it still needs to be painted.Another view of the starter. The solinod is pointing down because in the up position it contacts the header. You can also see the 3/4" bell housing adapter for adapting the 426 hemi bell housing to the 392 hemi block.View of the carbs.Shot down the scoop of the front carb.Front view of the lower pulley and timing cover.View showing the Felpro valve cover gasket.View of the Fram oil filter and adapter. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  8. Hey Sixx No problem, that's what we're here for. Check out the 65 stang and see what's coming next. If you need help just shoot me a PM or reply to a tread. You should check out Dave's stuff I think he's comp189 he is really frickn' assume I pale at his ability. Thanks RonG
  9. Hey nitro I'll send you a check as soon as my cow comes home...lol. I'm working on the valve covers as we speak. Putting in the spark plugs and the tubes that go into the covers so you can get to the plugs, I also added some Felpro valve cover gaskets. Then I'm going to paint them a gold color to match the oil pan. Thanks RonG
  10. Hey all I temporarily assembled the engine for some pics. So here we go. The above picture shows the advance adjustment for the magneto. (This was supposed to be the last picture but the editor screwed up)This view shows the whole thing kind put together for a overall perspective.Front shot.This view shows the scratch built offset magneto and dipstick. The mag cap and body are from a Tamiya Lotus kit and the dipstick is from a Lindberg luv buggy Fiat Topolino.This view shows the oil filte, but it's a little dark.This view shows the blower, carbs and scoop.View that shows the oil filter better. You can see the water pump and cross over tube. I need to figure out how to get the blower belt to fit around them.Closer view of the dipstick and magneto.Head on view of the motor, yes the idler pulley is not there, I have to figure out how I want to mount it.Shot down the scoop, you can kinda see the top of the carbs...I need more light. Well that's it for now, so look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG
  11. Hey fordboy If you mean the chassis and roll cage. Well since this is a 60's Era gasser it is going to be semi gloss black. The engine block is red with aluminum heads and the blower is black with aluminum covers. The carbs are Holley brass with aluminum bowls and the headers are flat white. I think I'm going to make the valve covers and oil pan gold. That's as far as I have got so far. Thanks RonG
  12. Hey all Just a little update for everyone. I still have to paint the chassis, but I did get the motor and all its parts painted. Boy... long day at the bench 9:00 am to 9:00 pm. I was a drilln' holes and a slopn' paint...lol. I was to tired to take any pictures. So maybe I can take some tomorrow. Short but sweet... good night...ZZZZZ......ZZZZZ.....ZZZZZ...LOL THANKS RONG
  13. Thanks Dave I'm busy working on the 57, washing parts before painting. Those pics sound assume, I'll get back to you when I have a chance. Thanks RonG
  14. Hey Sixx Try TDR.INOVATIONS and 3d specialties there both on shapeways. Both have lots of stuff, can be a bit pricey. Take a look at my 57 Chevy gasser build in the drag section it's mostly scratch built the 392 hemi and 9" Ford rear end are from tdr inovations . If you have any questions please let me know I'm glad to help. RonG
  15. Hey Paul That's pretty cool, I'm a long way from building the stang, still trying to get the 57 Chevy gasser done. Working on the motor as we speak. Get'n. it ready for painting, I'm drilling holes for fasteners right now and modifying a few parts to what I want. Chassis is pretty much done, I have to make all the interior sheet metal, actually aluminum. I need to figure out how I want to do the tilt front end and the steering and dashboard and gauges. So as you can see it will be a while before I get started on the mustang. Thanks RonG
  16. Hey Mr68gts I know TDR.INOVATIONS has the 427 FE motor and the SOHC Ford motor, that's one of the ones I had planned on using. The other block I was going to use is from 3d specialties (Ron Olsen) he has a Sonny Leonard type mountain motor with verious intake setups, was going with the twin 4" turbos setup, but every thing for the motor and turbos is $265.00!! So saving my pennies till I can afford them. Plus I also need about another $200.00 or so for wheels, frt. tires, radiator, fuel sell, battery etc...etc...etc. Plus I think I may use his promod chassis which is around $170.00 bucks!!! So lots of mullah or lots of scratch building...lol Thanks RonG
  17. Thanks Dave That's kinda what I was looking for. I went on Sonny Leonards site and saw his mountain motors, especially the Ford ones. Do you know what blocks he uses? I have a custom 460 block I started in 1/8 scale probably 20 some years ago. It has siamezed cylinder bores, don't remember what size I made them, big as I could. I also made a crank shaft, connecting rods and pistons. I made 1 SCJ head, I was going to resin cast the other one. I made a oil pan and timing cover to. The block has all the detail of a real block except the oil passages. I scaled em up from a real block and head. Now if I could just remember which packing crate it is stored in I will dig em out and take some pictures. I had planned on using them in a 32 Ford 3 window coupe with a blower and dual Holleys, but life changed and it never came about. If I can find another 32 kit I may restart the build, but they are scarce and expensive, plus I think the guy who made the 3 window coupe bodys is no longer around, and I haven't seen one on ebay in awhile. THANKS RONG
  18. Hey Dave Is that a big block Chevy or 429/460 Ford. It's pretty cool. Thanks RonG
  19. Hey guys Well I didn't get it painted yet, but here are a couple of shots anyway of the frame and roll cage. Oh that's me sittin in it lol....(maybe 20 years ago). But it gives the whole thing some perspective. He is a Tamiya motor racing team driver, that I modifed into a sitting driving postion and painted, it was a lot of work had to use a hot knife, putty and sweat equity, if you you get my meaning.This is kinda a overall shot, the sheet stock is only temporary. They are actually templates for the finale floor and firewall.Close up shot of me....he...he and some of the cage gussets.Side view of the seating position. I still need to 3d print out a set of racing seats for it. So look em over and let me know what you think. Please respond all input is appreciated. Thanks RonG
  20. Hey guys Well I didn't get it painted yet, here are a couple of shots of the frame and roll cage. Oh that's me sittin in it lol (maybe 20 years ago). But it gives the whole thing some perspective.This is kinda a overall shot, the sheet stock is only temporary. They are actually templates for the finale floor and firewall.Close up shot of me....he...he and some of the cage gussets.Side view of the seating position. So look em over and let me know what you think. Please respond all input is appreciated. Thanks RonG
  21. Good grief Dave those are Frick n awesome man!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had your talent. I'm a retired automotive engineer with 30 plus years with the big three and I can tell you that is some fantastic engineering. Prass be to Dave the guru of 1/8 scale. RonG
  22. Well gasser 59 I think I'm going to take your advice and change the floor from .02 stock to .03 stock the .02 is to flimsy, doesn't support the body very well. I had to start over on the roll cage it was out of wack. The new cage and frame are just about done. I'm on my way to the store for paint as we speak. Going to give it a first coat of primer so I can see if there's any place left to fix. I made a 1/12 scale driver for display purposes, and that led to the roll cage change, he was sitting outside of the cage, which we all know is a definite no no. I will post some pictures of the frame and driver. As soon as I get them painted. So keep watching to see all the progress. Thanks RonG
  23. Hey Dave Thanks that sounds pretty close to what I want to do. So yea all the pics you can send would be greatly appreciated. If you could could you hold a scale or tape measure up to the items to help with scaling it up. I still trying to get the 57 Chevy gasser done. I have the frame and roll cage just about done and ready for first primer coat, on my way to the store for paint right now. Thanks, and keep that Sonny Leonard mountain motor in that rail. That thing is outrageous!!! You do some amassing work, way above my caliber. Were did you get the slicks and front tires that you have on that 1/8 rail? Did you make them? I need a pair for my 65 stang. loL Thanks RonG
  24. Hey bamadon Most are based on big block chevys, but are extensively different, mostly bore spacing and deck height. There is a Ford version also. Check em out on the Internet. And yea I meant 1,000 cu. in. Thanks Brett. I have to order a bunch of stuff for this one. Probably going to be 2 to 3 hundred worth hopefully not more or I will be slipping in the dog house. lol Thanks RonG
  25. Hey all Well as you can see by the heading I'm going to be making a 1965 Mustang GT into a Street Outlaws type promod. As soon as I get the 57 Chevy gasser done, which probably will take some more time, I will be starting on this. I'm not sure what I want to use for a motor, it's either going to be a fuel injected Ford SOHC cammer or a 1,000 cu. in. mountain motor with twin 4" turbos. Well what do you think? I'm kinda leaning towards the mountain motor setup. I think It will probably come down to how much each setup costs. Well here's some pics to kinda get things rolling. So look em over and let me know what you think. Thanks RonG PS by the way I need the instructions for this kit it's Revells #H-1286 Thanks again RonG
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