89AKurt

This is good! So you can heat the piece on the box, to help suck it down, vs. slapping it down and hoping it will take.

Dredged up this ancient topic, so long-time experts on this forum won't jump on my case when I start a new topic, with a "it's been talked about before, why are you wasting our time." But of course, now it will be "why are you dredging up this ancient and useless topic, we have 3D printing now!" Or something like that, be creative. I did *not* find Jairus's topic, was it scrubbed, or is it titled and tagged with something creative, like "how to make parts"? I've had some interest on a current WIP about my vac-forming (vacuum-forming, vac-formed, vacuum-formed just so future searches will pick up this subject), thought I would start a new topic, but don't wish to waste my time if a real expert (I'm just a hack) has already done so.

I used 1/2" cedar and dovetailed, just for the woodworking experience. You could get a wood cigar box and make one. It's 6" x 8", used 1/8" aluminum but could probably get away with 1/16" if a support is added in the center, inside the box, and maybe even use the cigar box lid which would be much easier to drill all the holes. Really good guess on hole size and spacing, YES! I broke the drill, so had to use the next size up.

Apologize for not replying in Feb.! I had acquired the Model Factory Hiro kit this summer, so I got that out of my system. More back to topic, I got two different bodies from Shapeways, the Ferrari Berlinetta is much better quality than the Chevy COE. It makes a huge difference on the plastic? Is there different formulas for the plastic? Does digital file size matter, if someone models in 1/43 but blows up to 1/25, would the result look like it's carved from wood or sand cast? BTW: Your model looks awesome!

dancing flash mob

standing up shovels

Redid the vac-form parts today. I was not happy with various aspects of the first run, so I went into full OCD mode for about 7 hours. I'm still not really sure how I'm going to fit all this together, and to glue into the body, then paint and weather in there. The floor will no doubt be glued in last before putting the body onto the frame. Time for a beer! EDIT: The pictures aren't staying in the order that I downloaded. 1. Undercut the patterns to thin out the Corian where I wanted to drill holes. I also had to redo the side panels correctly. 2. Added the seat back for a part. 3. Showing the holes, really need this at the inside corners. Also added to the top. I know the Corian is thin enough when I see light. 4. I haven't shown my box very well before. I stick down the patterns with r/c servo tape. 5. Cut grooves under the patterns to help with air flow, then line up when setting on the box. 6. Use shipping tape to mount .02" plastic to the masonite frame. 7. Tape can't go beyond the frame. 8. To avoid discussion about my wood stove (), I used the range cooktop to heat the plastic. This is the critical stage, of course. (possible separate topic?) 9. First part looked good at first.... 10. Discovered the plastic opened a hole, which resulted in loss of vacuum. 11. Added clay to the big void, with a stick that had a gap. I had also sloped the smaller part so it would come out of the finished piece. 12. Success! 13. You can see how the plastic sucked down along the inside edges better. It was still a challenge to cut out the smaller part. 14. Next parts were a success the first time. 15. Not ideal to have the plastic come underneath so much, would add a bulkhead if done again. You can see the air 'flumes' to the holes on the side. 19. Some more finesse fitting required. 18. Cutting the bulkhead, need to be really careful to not overshoot while cutting. I whittle down such edges, instead of hoping to make one cut. 17. Rough fitting of a side panel. The OCD in me is saying that needs to be redone, but lots of rust might hide it. LOL 16. The seat back, and side panel cut out. I removed much of the seat back 'pattern', some of it was temporary just for this operation.

Yea I hear ya! Today I spent about 7 hours, re-doing the vac-form parts. This is why I hardly get anything done. It's also why this project was sitting in the box for so many years, can say I have jumped over this hurdle without doing a faceplant.

but forum posting

That's some incredible work! And really good photography too. I have the "Lexus" kit, planning to use the engine/chassis under a classic Celica. Good to see someone else using nail 'polish' paint!

chariot restoration shop

I still prefer BMF, but I have encountered a sheet that had the adhesive gone bad, did not stick at all. I have used the Molotov pen, you have to commit to applying in one sweep, DO NOT go over to touch up.

of gold buried

Thank you. That's what I found out *after* I built it, a few have said they built it. Thanks. I'm not complaining, nobody would listen anyway. My mom found more pictures in a scrap book, some could have been useful when building the 170V Roadster. That's me sitting on the bumper, the day dad sold the car.

I happen to have met Maynard Keenan, who is a somewhat famous rock musician, who lives in Jerome and would rather make wine. He can afford to drive a Porsche Cayenne Turbo, but he wanted to help out the town by buying a retired cop Crown Vic from an auction. He was digging how people move over on the highway.

Jumped the wall.

I'm digging that Unimog! I've built that 240Z too, and another version of the Vette. Nice job, and feel good you finished so many!

I had to look at a map, it's on the west border, almost bottom of the straight line. Palouse is the region. Don't think I've been in Boise area.

This is making me want to start mine. LOL But I have two other WIP stopping me. Which kit for the tires? I have a Subaru Impreza, but it has slicks. I've been watching videos, to help decide on how much to trash it, really want end of the stage filthy dirty with torn fender and such. Noticed tonight the leading edge of the front spoiler had different colors. Anyway, I'm cheering you on! And just for kicks, some action video:

Welcome to Fly-By-Night, Seat-Of-The-Pants, Gorilla Engineering! You should see some of my house decor, airplane parts and salvaged steel tubing for the pool table light. And I also modified the bar pool table by taking out the coin machine, and drop box, so all balls go straight to the end.

Try this:

** EDIT** Is this not working for anyone? Thought I better post this video. I built the vac box last century, has 1/8" aluminum plate that I drilled holes in. You could use a cigar box. It's much bigger than the Mattel vac-form tool. I have a shop with woodworking tools, so using Corian isn't a big deal. The nice thing about this plastic, it has a higher threshold for heat. It's great for Dremel grinding. And if you find the right countertop shop, they will give you scraps. The drawback is it's brittle when thin, don't dare drop it on a hard floor. I've also used it for body parts. It sands down really nice too. Give it a try!

Prolly shouldn't say I'm much into NASCAR, but I'm really impressed with this! I appreciate the workmanship. I'm also familiar with the kit. I know it goes for every form of racing, but I'm amazed how real stock factory stuff they were then, zero for the cars now.

Like the choice of colors, not red but unique, and not easy to get right. You did well! Also feel your pain, about starting and not finishing, been trying to remedy that (like when the moon drops). It's interesting how rare the Fords have become, still see Firebirds on the road, at least in AZ. Here is to building more next year!

with spearmint gauze