absmiami

Looked again ... exhausts are 1/16 ?? are the pipes copper or brass and am I color blind ?

Yup questions - the exhausts are copper - right ? What are the dimensions ? Looks like .080? weld seams - made with nickel silver Wire ? and the fuel lines - nickel ? Dimensions - .012 ?? ??

?? ??? keep going ...

Bout ready to do some painting ...

Before painting I’m adding dozens of bolts to the block and the cyl head. Doing this now so I can limit my handling of these parts once they are painted. Using .020 and .025 bolt heads and nuts from RB motion, Master Club - those are the plastic bolts on the exhaust manifold flanges. These are really very sharp castings. Some scale hardware bolts also used.

The air box is not used on the restored car. - and it’s a safe bet that the actual air box was binned at the end of the season - or when the 32B was sold to an Australian privateer at the end of the season. But there are a handful of photos available online - and the design was a pre-cursor of the air boxes used on the Ford DOHC Indy winner 6 months later.

The carbs will be pegged into an air box that team Lotus used in the Tasman series ...

When I made the master - I made the body of the carb just a little too tall . So I’m performing a Weber lobotomy. I sawed the cap off - sanded away about .020 - and then epoxied the cap back on - and then the same on the second carb.

You are referring to the old Revell ? Kit ?? Don’t give up. It was very detailed and has great potential. And one of my favorite cars. more on the engine. - the 32B used side draft Webers - which was the general choice for the Climax FPF. I’m using some castings of a Weber that I made years ago.

Latest GSL posting just swam into my email box ... May 5-8 2022 and yes, it is the last and yes, Bugattifan , you’re invited too ...

Not to beat a dead horse ... ok. Why not the great salt lake contest will have a category for these creations ... so ....

Once again. Please Trailer this to the GSL21....

Rather nice. -is this a recent build ? ?

So if you’ve shelled out lots of cash for Tamiya’s 300 sl kit you know what I mean. While it is a very good kit T could have casted a stand alone starter to place into the base of the engine block. Not asking too much - how bout it, T. ?? There, rant over - I feel better now ...

Exhibit A ...

Yup don’t you hate the castings that have 3 or 4 parts cast as one - with each part intended it have a different color or finish how many engine blocks do you own that have a lump cast into it that is supposed to be the starter motor ...?? that’s how scratch building starts - but you probably already knew that ...

Most of!these parts will get a few changes but everything will fit and all of these parts have pegs that will hold them in place after painting And glueing ... and thanks to mr L ...

Water pump swirl pot starter carb intake pipes next ...

The engine mounts were epoxied to the block and came off while I worked on the block - better now then later ... the fronts were re-attached with .020 plastic pegs and re-epoxied. They’ll stay put now. looks like there is room for the distributor. Which will be attached later ...

Work on the cylinder head and the coolant/water return pipe as usual - drilling grinding sanding. And some more drilling - pegs are drilled into the block so I can position everything ...

Roll bar. The joker lotus 33 kit comes with an ok white metal roll bar - the 32B used a matt black roll bar that tucked inside the engine cover - the restored 32B has a taller - safer - grey roll bar - since I’m making the car as raced in the ‘65 Tasman Season I modified the white metal part and made left/right attachment bases in the monocoque. Just enough room left for the radiator return pipe on the left and the distributor on the right - I think .... probably time to make the engine accessories - like the swirl pot and return water pipe ... and per the last picture. Works been done on the windscreen and the mirrors ...

The ZF transmission uses a compact linkage assembly for the gear shift rod - in the Ford GT 40s. It is well represented on the printed trans. But Lotus used a different assembly for it’s ZFs ... It features a steel plate and one or two forks that hold the gear shift shaft out away from the side of the trans casing. So this was made from some evergreen stock this part will be attached with some brass pins. The part will be somewhat fragile. I’ll place it late in assembly.

just for fun …. here's a shot of the real thing - to compare with the shot just above pretty good !

Clean Clean Clean Cleannnn .......

Well. Actually 20 parts. Plus the brass knuckles ... file. Sand. Drill. Sand some more saw. — Rinse and repeat ...