absmiami

this is a shot of the car taken at a vintage event at Lime Rock many moons ago - think I got the color ....

write this down and post it above your workbench: IF EVERYTHING WORKS THE FIRST TIME ... IT'S TIME FOR A NEW HOBBY ... and by the way - the engine is turning out really nice ...

And I managed to finish the wheels and tires ... these were really time consuming - but there are no fenders - so it’s worth it ...

The engine cover on the 32B is different than the 33 because the engine is different. So I’ve sawed up a piece of scrap renshape to make the cover using the profile drawings on these cards. There are no drawings and the restored car does not have the original cover. That’s long gone. So I’ll follow the shape of the engine bay and judge the curves from photos - and I have to be sure that the peak of the cover clears the peak of the roll bar ...

The parafilm was crucial. Don’t think I could have masked the exposed frame members without this stuff - without damaging them ... ...

Really like this paint. Just a little over-bleed on one frame tube . And a small blemish on one panel and a speck of dust on the nose . Not bad ! This will take very little final prep. No clear coat. A minimum of sanding. Just one coat - and bang. Don’t know why. But metallic colors tend to give me a lot less trouble than solids ...

The Model Master is acrylic lacquer - so the drying time is faster than old fashioned enamel. By grasping the body with the chassis members at either end I was able to remove the tape without a problem - the parafilm came off without damaging anything But I’ll wait a few days before more handling

Just make sure that you don’t install it upside down when you put this together! I’ve been known to do this when I try to work past midnite ...

NICE ....

I really like this color. Have to move my Astons up higher on my build list .... maybe Jimmy’s DBR 4 GT ????

I won’t have a problem with “line bleed”. But I see your point ... removing the tape and parafilm will require a lot of handling and I don’t want to mar the surface. Maybe I’ll try tonite - I used some tape with some light “tack” so I could leave it on a while .... At least that’s the plan .... do you think that I could put some Parafilm on the surface after about 12 hours ??

I haven’t airbrushed Model Master paint in - like - forever ... missed that distinctive enamel scent ! The Cooper wears a paint color that is similar to same era Aston Martins. So I mixed up a color that looks about right fr the paint in the picture - thinned it - and masked the frame. Went on really smooth. Assuming that I should let this dry several days before I try to remove the masking - no hurry - should I wait a week? Lots to do in the interim ...

Thoughts on tire sidewall markings. The Deeks kit uses rubber O rings that I sanded for the tire patch. Sorry. - no tread pattern... would like too use / apply Dunlop markings. Dry transfers would work better than decals. - thinking ....

The white metal wheel castings came in Herb Deeks’ super rare Cooper kit which was a recast of the Merit kit with some wh metal castings ... And whilst I was toiling away making lug nuts for the Lotus 32B - it occurred to me that I needed 8 more for the back wheels on the Cooper . So....

I’m in big trouble [again] Mr Cooper is stopping in to the workshop and he expected the Mark IX to be finished by now ...

Yikes. Paint it orange and just pretend it’s an orange ?? pressure ? Or humidity ? Or just too heavy a coat ???

By the way ... nice bulkheads ...

I know where the missing guide is .... it’s in a dusty corner on the floor under your work bench ... next to two or three parts that you lost last year ...

Yup ...

The Hewland family is pleased to announce the birth of their 24th scale baby Hewland ....

2 votes for the exhaust support ...

Two wheels down - two to go ...

By cutting off the washer - following the outline of the nut - I have a nut that has the needed height to simulate a wheel nut. This is tedious- but takes a bit less time than machining each one of these suckers ...and the stems on these things are just .018 in .

You’re welcome don’t forget to return it when you’re done ... scoured the internet for some wheel nuts. The sets that are currently available have stems that are too large for these wheels - due to the location of the nut holes in the wheel - and I don’t want to make 24 of these things on a lathe . So I decided to modify some 1.0 mm 3D printed nuts ...

Would be fun to see the Cosworth in 43th ... whew ...