absmiami

Thanks. I sprayed a coat of Alcad clear on them. - To avoid tarnish. And the larger bolts. — the “Russians” - are by Master Club ....

This is really turning out nicely. Could I impose upon you to replace the fuel injector pipes with some polished alu ?? ??

The crowded engine compartment and transaxle detail is fighting me - misplacing small parts and measurement errors on others - so I retreated to the front of the frame to attach some suspension members. Using resin printed bolts (those Russian accessories) and bolts from RB motion - whatever works ... the nickel silver springs will really stand out ...

Mmmm. Nice Ford - wonder if there was an inter-division battle with Mercury for this car ???

Almost forgot - most of the build pix for the engine were posted on the “some old racing engines” thread. They are mostly on page 4 of that thread - and I’ve posted that thread forward in case you were trying to figure out the engine build ... and it’s tough to find older threads on the phone so I just sent the thread forward ... confused yet ? Good !

Posting to send this thread forward because it contains the build pix for the Cooper engine ... got to finish the Ford Indy engine next as there are some other Mad engines vibrating in their kit boxes ...

Before finishing the steering wheel I’ve installed the tach wires and glued the tach into its housing. The tach line runs back to the cyl head - the electrical wires - well I don’t really know where they go - so I’ll just bury them under the seat. - don’t tell anyone ...

By the way. I’ve not yet installed the carburetor assembly. This sticks out from the back of the cyl head. Which is why there is a large opening in the engine cover behind the cyl head.

In it goes - clipped to the frame members by the notches in the braces. Does the engine cover fit properly over the cyl head - of course not! Why ? Because : A: I think the engine should sit about a scale inch farther back in the frame - but I didn’t have enough technical info to help me sight the engine precisely. B: Also the engine is installed at a Slight tilt back and my engine does not tilt quite enough ... but that’s okay - I’ll just shave some material on the engine cover and I’ll be able to open the cover without interference from the leading edge of the cyl head ...

Now the engine - the gear case is attached to the engine braces and the crankcase oil lines are added before the installation - along with the crankcase/gear case chain drive

There is a fluid overflow container perched against the frame in the engine bay. I’ve glued it in here because its time (past time) to do the engine install and I won’t be able to mess with the container once this is done...

My package is tagged as Grobet ...

Ease of use - get some and post me ... if you were a blacksmith in a former life then it’s intuitive ...

Amazon. Cheap and easy - do a search for nickel silver rod assorted widths. My set has about 30 lengths of nickel silver ranging from about .020 to about .080 ?? Post me back if you don’t see it ...

Just a thought - when you find time for the important stuff - make a brass trunk lid ... for your next tool roll ... ...

If you travel back in time to about April - 2? Page back... you’ll see photos of the Merit kit steering wheel - which isn’t too accurate - I’ve stolen a steering wheel from Merit’s Lotus 11 kit - cleaned up and thinned the center spokes - and re-made the steering wheel with heated - formed - nickel silver.

The handbrake lever is on the left and the shifter is on the right ...

The seat has languished on the workbench for some months ... finished the seat cushions and painted black with some textured paint - might flatten the finish a little - not sure ... ...

3 pedals made of nickel bar and brass tube - brake in the center. - clutch to the left and gas to the Right . Have a good look. These will disappear under the gas tank in due time ...

The right hand cylinder has a splitter made from brass tube the brake lines go left and right to the front brakes. The shielded brake line on the left cylinder travels back to the rear brake ... by the way. Not sure but I may have reversed this ...

Yup. The Cooper is almost old enough to start nursery school. It occurs to me that maybe I should finish it ... merry new year. Raise you hand if you thought we would still be squirreled away in our workshops after nine months ... TMF sells some coated copper wire That is useful for brake lines. Very soft / bendable - which is helpful in this scale ...

Well. It’s a good looking pump ...

MSC shows a straight knurl wheel with 100 TPI. But I don’t think it could be used with the sherline tool ... ? ? ... maybe get that with an MSC hand tool ... ?

The tool itself should have Markings saying. ____. TPI. ...

Very Interesting