absmiami

Will you have a visible engine bay for those cool twin cams that you drew ??? ?? ?

Yup. by the way - the random toothed files and burs that I use for renshape are made by PermaGrit ... they are a “must have” for shaping the stuff ...

Oh yes - I did forget - Stirling Moss - RIP ...

Finito. thanks to all of you who slogged along - I don’t post encouragement or compliments as often as I should. - My bad last pic is a pose with a Merit friend - shows you how small the Cooper Mark 9 was / is ... driving it must be like strapping an engine onto a bicycle .... for the very brave and / or the very foolish ...

Thanks: Herb Deeks. The mysterious Guido Feiuw : Merit kits : Model Master paints: Floquil paints: Tamiya paints: Alclad: RB Bentley: Evergreen plastics: who am I missing ? ...

Gracias strateliner... it occurred to me a short while ago that I needed to finish this thread before I got to page 13.... because we all know that this build goes to hell on page 13 - right ? So here’s the last part - the second exhaust pipe spring clip - which is made from .0075 steel wire and looks way better than my first clip ...

Almost done ...

These cars used those neat spring loaded hooks as bonnet stays. Sakatsu makes these things in metal - ive had them a long time - don’t know if they are still available ... soldered on some brass pegs and epoxied them hanging down since the bonnet will be mostly hinged open - gotta see all that stuff, right ??

I had made some Cooper markings on my computer- on blank decal sheet - but the badges on the Cooper kits from Fernando Pinto are better. So I sort of borrowed a sheet from one of these kits for the badge on the bonnet and the marking on the steering wheel... the badge artwork has a red circle - which is accurate for the Cooper badge - but it proved to be overscale - so I punched a smaller badge without the circle for these markings ...

It’s a small car - so my box of decals fails to produce roundels of the correct size - so I’m tracing circles on the back of a decal sheet with a template - 7/16 - and cutting out 3 roundels. The numbers are from a sheet of dry transfers that I’ve kept from an older project ... the first one was a failure - but masking tape removed the offending marking and the next one was better ...

Like I really need another 3>4 year CAD project! Maybe we can get Mad Mike to work one up? The MFH BRM build on the britishmodeler site had lost all it's image links however there is still a WIP of the Lotus H-16. https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235084613-lotus-43-brm-jim-clark-1966-us-gp-watkins-glen-mfh-120/ yes - Pascal is a really good builder - but where do you surf in France ?? ???

You can leave out the valves stems .... 64 of them ?? ready to break at a moment's notice ...

and just for the record - the cutaway was done by Berris for Autocar i'm sure he was well compensated - or not ...

there is a rule on this forum [I just made it up] ..,. if you post it, you eat it ... so now you've got to draw an H16 with all of the internals - and send it to Mad to scale and print ... just kidding - mostly ...

The H16! thanks so much for sucking me back down into one of my favorite rabbit holes heavy, unreliable, weird unusable torque curve, not as much HP as promised - a great big - magnificent - mess but what a great modeling subject! the definitive book on the car has yet to be completed - it is sitting quietly on Doug Nye's desk - or somewhere in his laptop ... the mysterious - ever elusive - BRM Vol IV !! Ive got photos of the Donington car - including detailed engine shots - from over thirty years ago ! - Ill post them when I start to build the engine neither the Lotus 43 - or the BRM H16 - have ever been properly kitted in 24th scale the pix that you have posted come from the great R & T mag issue listed below - along with some other vintage mag articles on the H16 - just in case someone is foolish enough to join me ... warning - the moment that I / any of us / finish a Lotus 43 or BRM H16 build in 24th scale - some wise guy will 3D print/produce a magnificent kit... just a thought ... BRM H-16: Autosport ______ 1966 w/cutaway - don’t have Motor (Uk) May 14,1966 don't have Sports Car Graphic Aug 1966 eng feature w/color d/have Thorbred & Classic Cars Feb 1986 Overhead shot of car Motor Sport Sept 1994 Road & Track Aug 1966 Must-have - great cover shot Autocar Aug 20,1977 Full pg eng color cutaway by Berris

The SMTS kits were really good. I’ve got the Gurney Eagle kit. The MFH 20th scale Lotus 43 is being completed in a very good build thread on the Brit modeler site - I’ve been studying it for some corrections on my 24th scale build - it’s dormant while I finish my Merit Cooper ...and yes, BRM designed the engine to be “load bearing”. They just never quite figured out how to make it reliable ... understatement ...

Now I can repaint the engine cover and turn my attn back to the wheels ... couldn’t resist the urge to use these Shabo markings - they are dry transfers - the last Dunlops in my stash ... dry transfers are generally not available these days - There is something about the process used to make these - the chemicals used in their production - that have forced the makers to stop production - which is too bad. Anyway - here they are ... sharp and bright ... if you look closely at the right rear tire, you’ll see a sanded flat spot That’s the trick that I’m using to get the left rear tire just about down on the ground... don’t tell anyone...

The bell is a machined aluminum part. It’s about .060 in length and tapers from from .05O out to .080 ...

Think I described the assembly in the old racing engines thread ... .050 brass tube and some other bits and pieces of this and that ...

This is the white metal carb in the Deeks kit - it’s a recast of the Merit kit plastic part. The real part uses twin float chambers that flank the body of the carb. They sit on a sort of tray that grasps the neck of the carb ... So ...

That’s a fair point - I do think that sooner or later we will have a great 3D printed engine by someone like Mad Mike - it will cost $$. But you’ll be able to go to town on this and other Jaguar kitz ...

I’m a little disappointed by the sink marks - but I’m more concerned about some of the soft details - example - the cylinder head and the U joints - I’m not yet convinced that this new kit is much better than the thirty (forty?) year old Heller kits - I think Revell may have missed an opportunity to make an E type that is comparable to the -Tamiya Jag S types - which are killer - too bad ...

Try stamping the surface with a light hammer and a small tipped screwdriver. ...

And by the way. The renshape is soft enough for you to hammer some Louver patterns on to the body - if you want some female louvers ...