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absmiami

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Everything posted by absmiami

  1. absmiami
    This post suggests thaT I mite be somehow scattered or unfocused... I resemble that remark ...
  2. absmiami
    Whilst adding the studs to the top of the engine block - I decided to remove the valve covers - making them easier to finish - probably Alclad - or maybe try a spray of Molotow- Used the razor saw that is super thin - so only a sliver of material is hacked off ...
  3. absmiami
    Maybe white metal ?
  4. absmiami
    Rich. If any of your COVID symptoms persist, I’m prescribing another Porsche build ... very nice
  5. absmiami
    The chassis tapers out to the instrument panel bracket location and then runs back to the rear suspension bulkhead - sheets of .250 and .060 by .250 make chassis horns that are 7.5 scale inches wide - which is about what you need - left and right. I can date the age of the evergreen package by the price. The one that’s pictured cost 1.49 - at a local hobby store - probably Orange Blossom Hobbies - back when - 1985 ??
  6. absmiami
    The paper outline was cut from one of the Clidinst drawings - Road & Track published drawings in 1962 of the Lotus 25 profile but the 29 monocoque was a little wider and deeper. And I’m pretty certain that Clidinst got it right ... I’m doing this first one with Evergreen plastic - and the trusty xacto saw and mitre box
  7. absmiami
    Well it’s May - so what better month to make the Lotus 29 monocoque. These are scr grabs fr one of the Indy Museum restoration videos.
  8. absmiami
    It’s too visible to leave off - so I performed some razor saw surgery on the block casting and added the feature with some strips of evergreen strip and bar ... nuts will be glued to each of the 4 posts ...
  9. absmiami
    The additional row of bolts is seen on this screen grab from one of the Indy Museum Gurney restoration videos ...
  10. absmiami
    One large difference between the 289 Shelby engine and the Fairlane 255 that I’m making is an additional row of studs and bolts - 4 left and 4 right - on the edge of the engine block - Ford beefed up the block to handle the horsepower needed on a mid sixties Indy engine... this is the engine casting without the needed changes ...
  11. absmiami
    The features on the front engine cover are complex in scale - I’ve saved somE build time by “borrowing” some parts from the AMT 29 kit and the crank shaft balance wheel from a different Mad Mike engine print - the FORD DOHC Indy engine.
  12. absmiami
    Began to drill the bolt and engine mount holes - mostly .018 - and filed the profile some more - when I had one part with the correct shape - I then traced that part for a second one - the engine cover was a housing - back and front - that housed the gears and pumps - - which was then bolted together - I’ll scavenge some of the features on th kit part for the front cover.
  13. absmiami
    The front cover of the Fairlane based engine was very much like the front cover of the DOHC engine that was used by Lotus and Gurney and Foyt et al beginning in ‘64. In fact Ford began to work on the DOHC engine just before the Fairlane based SOHC engine - Late in ‘62. The part on the 29 kit engine has the correct features and shape - but it’s way too small - even taking the scale diff - 24th to 25th - into account. So I traced the outline of the kit part on .030 w a Sharpie onto evergreen sheet and went from there ..
  14. absmiami
    Thanks for perusing ... while the Webers are napping ... The sump is built up [down?] in layers of Evergreen styrene sheet and strip. - from .040 thick to .015 for the ribs on the side of the pan ... used epoxy, liquid glue, and CA, depending ...
  15. absmiami
    See big John’s contributions at the top of page 2 of this thread ...
  16. absmiami
    The middle picture above is some siding that was not used ... used the siding with the wider ridges - shown below - the narrower pattern will come in handy for another engine - not yet begun ... well I guess I just started it ...
  17. absmiami
    https://www.fiskens.com/cars-for-sale/Lago-Talbot-T26C/13669.htm not exactly your car - but a nice T26 with limited restoration your throttle pedal and clutch pedal may be drilled ... maybe ...
  18. absmiami
    you're slower than me ! you're my hero ...
  19. absmiami
    So here’s the base of the sump ...
  20. absmiami
    To the sump - which is more like the sump on the DOHC than the 289 ... it’s deep - about 7 inches in depth - and it has a ribbed section half way back - the 29 restoration videos posted on the Indy Museum site are critical ... the ribbed section was made with the Tamiya .2mm scribing tool - its very good - and a section of Evergreen rail road siding sheet ...
  21. absmiami
    The fuel entered from a line above the tray sitting on the carbs - which was unique to this particular Ford Racing engine ... the restored 29 uses smaller carbs with a different fuel line arrangement - so I’ve been peering at the contemporary shots on the Rev’s and the Henry Ford research site to figure this out ...
  22. absmiami
    Hot Rod published a top and bottom photo because their readers were ... hot rodders! Their coverage of Indy in the sixties was great... so I got some paint on the Webers - A mix of steel and gray - Alcad - I had to modify the Weber castings to make everything fit ... but it really won’t be visible ... The bells on the carbs were polished - I’ll probably use some Molotov - haven’t tried to brush it yet but this should be a good app for that ... mite also use Molitow to paint the valve covers - but the block needs a lot more work ...
  23. absmiami
    The holes in the manifold are used to trace the openings in the tray that sits on top of the Webers ... next - paint ...
  24. absmiami
    Gracias. found another good sourcE for contemporary pix of the 29 - this issue of Hot Rod - includes a great picture of the manifold -
  25. absmiami
    Yup
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