absmiami

The engine cover fell to the floor (again). The break was in the two thin spots where there wasn’t enough resin to withstand clumsy handling. But the breaks were clean - so I’ve drilled in and placed some short .012 brass pins and drilled corresponding holes and glued it all back together. Will need some sanding and some more paint but I’ve got some xtra paint left over ... could’ve been worse ...

Thanks mr tier ... what’s on your work bench ?

NEAT !!

BUILD IT BUILD IT most of the pattern markings could be masked and painted and you could scrounge up some dry transfers for the white lettering ...

That sump is ... sumptuous here’s what the sump looks like on your 24th scale casting. well call this “junior” ...

That’s why I asked you to produce the Indy Ford engine in 25th ... and thank you .. there are these kits available - the Indy Lotus 29 kit in 25th scale the AMT Indy Lotus 38 kit in 25th scale ... - the ‘68 - ‘69 Gurney Eagle kit in 25th - the 24th scale Finecast Lotus 38 - more on this later ... Indycals has made a very limited production 25th scale Lotus 38 Indy kit - don’t have one but it looks good ... and Silvercity is working on some Gurney Eagle kits - probably in 25th scale ... Forget about the 25th sc AMT Lotus 38 - way too small - nothing will fit - but the other kits present some possibilities ... the small scale castings of kit engine covers are over scale in thickness - by a lot... as a result, a true scale 24th scale engine won’t really fit into a 24th scale kit - but a 25th scale might - I’m working on this .. . for instance, your 25th scale Indy Ford engine casting is still slightly longer and taller than the engine casting in the 25th scale 1968 Gurney Eagle kits -obviously those kit engine castings were scaled to fit into the kit engine bay without regard to scale accuracy - I’ve been working on a 24th scale ‘66 and ‘67 Gurney Eagle body casting that I think will take your 25th scale Ford Indy engine. And or the stock block engine - it’s complicated - I’ll post some photos once I’ve dragged the Cooper Mark IX across the finish line ... ... im putting away the can opener. - there’s worms all over the place ...

Strange. I’m 3 yrs older - the workbench doesn’t seem to age ? ... ??

So the axles are in and the uprights are “pinned”. The axles run right up against the shocks - the U joints are small but probably still a bit over-scale ... the stance is not quite as good as the test fit 8 months ago- the left rear wheel is about a scale inch off the ground - I’ll use a couple of tricks to improve the stance slightly - but I smell a points deduction on this ... got to remember to delete this post ...

You’re velcome ... you can do a working susp with these ... can’t on the Cooper - The combination of plastic and brass makes these parts too fragile to allow for susp travel. oh well ... paint finish on axle and U joints is Alcad polished steel over Alcad steel - works well -

Well. The seats look good on my phone ....

That’s ok reverend Davis That’s ok reverend Davis U joints / evergreen strip - .080 by .100 - filed and sanded to shape with .020 holes for the pins - which are Scale Hardware .07 rivets - through a brass yoke made of soldered .08 brass tube ... Weeeeeh ....

Before finishing the axles and the U joints I’ve gotten the unique Cooper torsion bar on - that’s the black curly cue thing that’s perched on top of the leaf spring ... and the stance is OK. - not perfect - but it’s close to what I want ... I know that the wheelbase difference front to back looks odd - but the Coopers ran a narrower rear suspension ...

Rear susp assembly is proving to be difficult - fitting, tweeking, re-drilling holes, more test fitting ... and an unscheduled survey of the workshop floor in search of a wayward upright.

Made and installed the new fuel pump - it’s driven off the back of the transaxle . Of course - I then found the first pump - which had gone missing ... the pump fittings are RB Motion banjo fittings ... and installed the oil tank after some mods to the shape - had to lower its profile to fit under the engine cover with the tank cap - which is a white metal part fr the parts bins ...

Yup

I’ll post more photos of the chassis if anyone is interested. But I don’t want to confuse mr bacon’s very nice build thread. Maybe on a separate thread .. . I’m tempted to buy the kit and do the mods for the later chassis but I need another build thread - like not ...

for those who were not familiar with Greg's work - inspiring ... https://www.gregnicholsstudio.com/scale-model-gallery

That’s Penske blue ... I’ll need some for an incoming Indy car. Whose paint did you use ?? ?? nicely done ...

Thanks for the response - info - and hurrahs all around...

Now back to the rear suspension - aided by some freshly machined RB Motion hardware and Master Club bolts ....

And the gas tank is epoxied to the chassis clips and sports two bungee cords made from semi-clear wire the spring clips made from wound steel wire. bye bye pedals - won’t see those again ...

Apple treated me to an I phone software update last night and everything works a little differently - I hate it when somebody moves my cheese ... where was I - Tweeking the engine cover fractured the forward edge. Clean break - so I’ve glued in a support piece - this will hold - so I’ll need another light coat of paint ...

Back to the engine bay ... ive made a second chain drive - the first one was too long - using the Aber photo-etch chain glued to a part made fr Evergreen .020. This is as close as you will get in making this sort of motorcycle chain drive in this scale ... the Aber set - I think it’s still available on their site - can also be used for the mechanical chains used in the brake assemblies seen in the foot bays of Bugattis. Neat stuff ... the part was shoe-horned into the engine bay - very tight fit - but it’s in and the drive train now just needs some axles and U joints - that’s next ...

How much did this Rolls weigh ? Built like a railway car ...

Steering wheel - w Cooper badge printed on my computer on some decal film shift linkage is brass and nickel silver tube - it links up with the gear case in the engine bay no. This is not an all nighter ... just couldn’t zzzz ... ...