absmiami

Thanks Ace ! alex K’s article was posted at the dawn of the internet (well sort of) i remember it - im surprised that it is still on line …. Is there any such thing as vintage internet ?? ????

24th sc ?? is it a fever ??

4 so far - cant make 8 in one sitting - to challenging …

Engine wednesday … the plugs are made from .06 brass tube, .031 alu nuts fr my RB Motion stock, and .08 alu tube - filed and sanded and painted to make the plug boots - the plug wire will slip into the assembly and i should’t have to worry about the plug tip getting dislodged …

Pay close attn to the mounting of the oil radiator …

Suggesting an engine mockup - your forward silver line mite run afoul of the bonnett - good use if sm diameter plug wires …

Measured and taped scribing guide lines - panels match the height of the eng compartment side panels … then scribed the cut lines with a Tamiya .015 scriber …

Can’t resist the temptation to make a removable panel - starting by locating the cut lines … and removing the louvers - which are in the wrong place - at least for this car - series I P3s ?? Dunno …

Underneath the cowling is a secondary oil tank - there is a removable panel aft of the bulkhead - serving access to the tank and the transmission -

Some exploratory body work …. The bonnett is designed to hinge …. And it does …. The lower engine compartment panels are thinned and modified - the Don Lee Special had no left side openings …

Yes …. and no … daniel - maybe Francis has’nt seen The Bug …. Post a couple of shots for the young ones …

Velcome back …

Thanks for adding Sentence 2 - sentence one w/out sentence 2 would be …. Slightly creepy ?

If you mean the water pipes and the breathers - im going to make them fr either nickel silver or aluminum - using the resin part as a rough pattern or guide - and you can also utilize the soft steel rod included in the kit - Pinto uses a good brand of resin - but some parts are unavoidably brittle … which is one reason why MFH invests in special equipment to produce white metal parts -

But that’s fixable w/out much drama - files, sanding sticks, and a scaper reshape the cutout and shorten the height of the louvers - which are incidentally - very nicely cast …

But one change always requires another - the exhaust now interferes w the side panel …

Thats the fix - the secondary exhaust pipe - repped by this vintage - used and weathered toothpick - will sweep past the cockpit below the cutout with just enough space for the heat shield …

So the exhaust was shortened about 16th inch - and the tips then re-drilled for the new -Evergreen tips …

That brought the pipe down to the correct line on the body - but now the pipe rides too far outside of the body …. Oops

So the pegs came off the holes were drilled into the exhausts for new pegs made fr Evergreen .030 rod - with the correct orientation .

So the exhaust leaves the cyl head at this angle - which is about 6 sc inches too high …

Hard to see - i think these pix show the wayward pegs …

This photo shows the oil lines and brings me to a major fix for the kit - the pegs on the tips of the exhaust pipes are angled - causing the exhaust to ride too high on the side of the body - driver would not want the pipe at his elbow -

There will be about a dozen changes to the body and susp to do the Don Lee Special - one is to change the outboard oil lines - removing two and rerouting the remaining two - and i used a Tamiya scriber to sharpen the relief of the remaining lines on the chassis rail …