fiatboy

How do I search on ebay for "already built junk collections"? What key word would I use to find these on ebay? Yup, I need more junk! Thanks

I want to edit the title of a post I have running now. Thanks

I am going to check with modelhaus right now.

This kit has a very nice actual Hurst Olds 442 hood with the snorkels, but underhood, it is missing the proper "air cleaner" seal. Anybody know what I am talking about? I wonder if any resin pieces were ever made to correct this 'scoop seal'? Thanks for reading my post.

OK, you guys; thanks again. I think this thread can now be closed.

Is there an "all-purpose" embossing powder that can be painted any color? Thanks for all the help.

Do I have this right, 'embossing powder'? I saw it mentioned in a model car magazine. Help, anyone?

I've been told that the 'needle opening' only controls the 'width' of the actual paint-spray coming out of the tip. So if you open the needle more, you will get a wider spray, and if you close it, you will get a narrow spray. For me, the viscosity of the paint is (almost) everything. I very rarely change tips. But if the paint is thick, go to a bigger nozzle, and if the paint is too thin, go to finer or smaller nozzle. To check the viscosity, I mix it good and then tip the paint-jar so you can observe how the paint 'swirls'.

Yeah, Peteski. I have a 3-oz. bottle I got from "Chicago Airbrush Supply". I successfully decanted the entire spray-can and after I thinned it out properly (it is still too thick) it filled the 3-oz. jar, and it is still too thick. I did successfully airbrush with it but I had to turn the pressure way up ( 40 psi). Hope it helps.

To put my 2 cents in: I recently decanted Tamiya laquer and after letting it sit in an open jar (for 6 hrs.?) and I had to add a LOT of laquer thinner to get to the (thin)viscosity AND turn the pressure way up. I probably got at least 4 ounces of paint out of that aerosol can after it was thinned way down.

OK you guys; thanks for all the great info!

My question is what is the most economical 'media' to soak these parts in (to get the mold release agent cleaned off). Whitewall-cleaner? Simple Green? Oven cleaner? Any ideas? Thanks

Thanks for all the helpful info you guys.

I just bought and received a beautiful resin kit of the '66 Toronado. But I am pretty sure I am going to need an accurate Toronado chassis. Any comments of any kind will be very welcome.

Hi people. Thanks for the warnings. I think I will try epoxy. Thanks again.

Alright! Thanks for all the great info.

I am making a custom exhaust system using solder. Is there a "best solder" type to use? Would I use a self-etching primer first? Thanks for the help.

Thankyou Ramfins59.

Hello everybody. I need to know how to glue billet intake horns to styrene carbureters. Thanks

I see that no one has mentioned "Duplicolor"; I seem to remember a number of builders using this. I was wandering around Hobby Lobby and I saw other brands, too, that some modelers use.

Has anybody seen in any of the model-car magazines, sets of 4 chrome Cragar wheels? I think the price for a set of 4 was $12.00. Thanks.

Thanks much, you guys. and Ace, you mentioned the Revell '72 Olds 442 kit that has an "up-top. I assume the AMT kit is 1/25; do you happen to know what the scale is for this Revell kit? Thanks again.

Anybody ever build the Brigg's '70 Chevell LS6 convertible racecar driven by Ray Allen? If I am not mistaken there is a kit of a '70 Chevelle convertible. If so, there are probably a number of you guys who have. Any comments? Thanks

Thank you, gtx.

Anybody familiar with Dandy Dick Landy's Dodge Super Stock cars? They are 3-tone, silver, red, and a blue color. I've heard both metallic blue and teal blue. Anybody? Thanks