fiatboy

Probably somebody has used these. I've heard that vinyl material can be used. Also what do you use for brand name labels or decals on something this narrow? 'Preciate it.

This thread can be closed.

Dear 'exotics builder': thank you for your kind reply. And Mr. Hakan: I am almost overwhelmed by all the info you sent me! Is it not amazing this "Model Car magazine" forum we have? Thank you, thank you!

I wonder if anyone has any ideas or suggestions in this regard? Thank you.

On (most) Top Fuel engines, there is a "stick-like" thing poking out from the cam-drive area of the engine. I guess they are various combos. of fuel pumps and water pumps and oil pumps. I am specifically building a Hilborn injected early funny car hemi engine with the tall stacks. I think 'Teds Modeling' has some schematics available but not a dry-sump oiling system. Anyway, thanks for reading my meandering message.

I have recently read or heard that bleach will remove paint from styrene; I do not know about resin. I am thinking maybe "Bleche White" tire sidewall cleaner. I do not have space at my place for a permanent 'basin' of the "purple pond". The Castrol material seemed to be very inefficient. Oven cleaner seems pretty efficient but is it too strong? Thanks.

How do I search on ebay for "already built junk collections"? What key word would I use to find these on ebay? Yup, I need more junk! Thanks

I want to edit the title of a post I have running now. Thanks

I am going to check with modelhaus right now.

This kit has a very nice actual Hurst Olds 442 hood with the snorkels, but underhood, it is missing the proper "air cleaner" seal. Anybody know what I am talking about? I wonder if any resin pieces were ever made to correct this 'scoop seal'? Thanks for reading my post.

OK, you guys; thanks again. I think this thread can now be closed.

Is there an "all-purpose" embossing powder that can be painted any color? Thanks for all the help.

Do I have this right, 'embossing powder'? I saw it mentioned in a model car magazine. Help, anyone?

I've been told that the 'needle opening' only controls the 'width' of the actual paint-spray coming out of the tip. So if you open the needle more, you will get a wider spray, and if you close it, you will get a narrow spray. For me, the viscosity of the paint is (almost) everything. I very rarely change tips. But if the paint is thick, go to a bigger nozzle, and if the paint is too thin, go to finer or smaller nozzle. To check the viscosity, I mix it good and then tip the paint-jar so you can observe how the paint 'swirls'.

Yeah, Peteski. I have a 3-oz. bottle I got from "Chicago Airbrush Supply". I successfully decanted the entire spray-can and after I thinned it out properly (it is still too thick) it filled the 3-oz. jar, and it is still too thick. I did successfully airbrush with it but I had to turn the pressure way up ( 40 psi). Hope it helps.

To put my 2 cents in: I recently decanted Tamiya laquer and after letting it sit in an open jar (for 6 hrs.?) and I had to add a LOT of laquer thinner to get to the (thin)viscosity AND turn the pressure way up. I probably got at least 4 ounces of paint out of that aerosol can after it was thinned way down.

OK you guys; thanks for all the great info!

My question is what is the most economical 'media' to soak these parts in (to get the mold release agent cleaned off). Whitewall-cleaner? Simple Green? Oven cleaner? Any ideas? Thanks

Thanks for all the helpful info you guys.

I just bought and received a beautiful resin kit of the '66 Toronado. But I am pretty sure I am going to need an accurate Toronado chassis. Any comments of any kind will be very welcome.

Hi people. Thanks for the warnings. I think I will try epoxy. Thanks again.

Alright! Thanks for all the great info.

I am making a custom exhaust system using solder. Is there a "best solder" type to use? Would I use a self-etching primer first? Thanks for the help.

Thankyou Ramfins59.

Hello everybody. I need to know how to glue billet intake horns to styrene carbureters. Thanks