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fiatboy

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Everything posted by fiatboy

  1. Really all I need is a chassis with nicely detailed front-suspension. And the longer the wheelbase the better. The recommendation part: If I have to buy a new kit, what would be a less-expensive kit but with good detail. I intend to build a salt-flat racer with front suspension and (maybe) a 'solid rear suspension'. Thanks
  2. What do you use, then, for a distributor 'blank'? The ones in kits are pretty small. Thanks
  3. Yeah I really like MicroScale Liquitape; it is good for tacking things together. But if you leave the parts too long together, then you can't remove the excess and that is a problem.
  4. Do you have to be a subscriber to "ModelCarsMagazine" to use this forum? (I am). Also, approx. how many people use this forum? Thanks
  5. When I see photos of some model cars, it looks like some have larger diameter plug wires. Anybody know anything about this? Thanks
  6. I bought a 'Miter Rite' from MicroMark. I think it is the best because it is micro-adjustable from 180 degrees to 360 degrees, and it is not too expensive, maybe around $30.00.
  7. Hello Mike.  I do have a spare Toronado/Eldo front wheel drive transaxle, by Speed City.  Send me your mailing address and I will get it to you.  I think it is 1/25 scale.  You should find lots of photos online.  I think there is a lilttle flash on it.  Jeff fiatboy

  8. I am scratch building the chassis for a salt-flat racer that would, I estimate, do 200 mph. Do you think I could go with no rear suspension like the Top Fuel dragsters? Solid mounted engine/trans./rear axle? Thanks
  9. I like the video showing how to make a mixer using a jig-saw ("Sawzall" style). Thanks as always.
  10. Thank U very much for all the info!
  11. My preferred method is to use the "Badger" battery operated mixer with the little propeller on the end. But I don't know how many of these mixers I've gone through. Another method I've tried is the shaker-type mixer with the rubber band that lasts about 2 months. Some people say they just shake the paint-jar; maybe with a B-B in the jar. Anyway, another "Badger" mixer just crapped out on me again. I would gladly pay a premium for a mixer of higher quality and longevity. Thanks
  12. Hello friends. I have looked all over (online) for someone to sell me some Zero Paint. Where do you 'guys' get it? I've tried Amazon. Thanks
  13. I will merely paint the wire the same color as the head liner. Not too 'fancy'. Thanks you guys.
  14. I am building the Pyro 1/32 Blower Bentley.
  15. I want to glue an LED to the inside interior roof like a courtesy light of yore. I want to show off the "beautiful" interior work I've done. Any suggestions, please?
  16. Is it best to use SpazStix own brand name black undercoat? Thanks
  17. I do not know if anyone has tried the "Lost Wax" kind of metal casting. It involves carving out of special dental wax, not regular wax, your pattern. Then you make your mold around the wax piece. Then you pour in the molten 'metal' and the wax vaporizes. You can probably find a book on this in the library. Otherwise go to "Alibris used books".
  18. When masking with Silly Putty, will it pull up the paint underneath? Thanks
  19. I was using (Castrol) Super Clean, but my source stopped carrying it. So I need a new paint stripper. Any recommendations? Thanks
  20. I have a partial aftermarket diecast 1/25 Hewland kit.. Partial because 1/2 of the piece is missing. I am not actually sure who manufactured this item. I only paid $10.00 for this: what a deal! (If it was complete.). I would like to acquire this item. Any help or info? From the same company I acquired a (complete) small block chevy with Webers. Thankyou much.
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