fiatboy

Some of these seat belt kits have P.E. pieces that need to be bent. A friend at the club recommended 'tools' in the beading-dept. at Hobby Lobby. I looked at them and I do not know if they are ideal. What do you think? Can anybody recommend some bending-tools? Thanks

Thanks for all the input. I think I will call Dremel.

I am looking for a cordless. The chuck that is part of the motor, is stripped, won't hold a bit. Thanks for any input.

I'll be watching this build. Have always loved the '68 Cobra Jet factory drag car.

I know the Parts Box in Australia offers a pretty good one, but too expensive. I could buy a whole kit, which is do-able, but which kit? Something in 1/24 scale. Seems like there should be one 'after market' for like 10-12 bucks. Thanks

Hi AFX and dragcarz. Thanks for the replies. AFX, the "Gold Rush" pictured, does not have a K-member. The original '65 Mopar AFX vehicles (Plymouth and Dodge) retained both the K-frame and the torsion-bars, which had to be extended. And dragcarz, I am building a (Gibson) street hemi engine, and I was thinking of using a deep sump Milodon pan. Now, I WILL use it, and paint it yellow! So thanks very much, again!

I suspect I was wrong about the magnesium K-member. I think it must have been stainless. Maybe I saw a '65 AFX with a K-frame painted yellow. Of course Ferrari (and others) use yellow colored magnesium wheels. They were 'coated' with a substance made by Dow, and maybe the Europeans had a similar coating. But we know a lot of racers use just uncoated mag wheels. Boy, you guys put a lot of effort into answering my question, which I 'm afraid was a dumb one! Thanks

Hi. Probably a lot of you folks know about the 12 factory Mopar AFX cars: 6 Dodge, and 6 Plymouth, built in 1965.. I know that the K-members, or K-frames, were moved forward 10". The new K-frames were made from magnesium and I've seen them painted a sort of yellow color. And here is my question: I've seen some deep oil pans on drag cars also painted a similar shade of yellow, I think. Any comments?

When I finish a model, I like to display it in a plastic case. But the conundrum is, shall I display it with the hood closed, or propped open. Is there a substance available that remains tacky so that I can remove the cover of the case, remove the hood temporarily, and then close the hood securely so that I can turn the model/case upside down to view the chassis detail without having the hood fall off? Thanks

I appreciate the timely responses to my question. Thanks

Canopy cement? Clear acrylic? Thank you for your help.

I use a food dehydrator, brand name:" NESCO American Harvest". This one has a therrmostat on it. I have run it at 100 degrees F. Of course, the shelving inside needs to be hollowed out, not difficult.

I was interested in building the Corvette '54 Corvair fastback concept car at one time. Somebody on this forum suggested using the 'custom' fastback tops that came with, I think, the '57 T-Bird, and I think a similar thing came in the Cobra 289 kit (yellow plastic).

Hi. By fine, I meant 4000.

Thanks for all the comments everybody. The body shell that I painted w/ enamel, looks dry enough to sand a little bit. I thought I would try it with a real fine 'sandpaper'. Well, I'll let you know.

Hi. I just painted a Chevy model "Marina Blue" I got special mixed in a removable-top can from NAPA. I don't even know if there is clear enamel. How about clear, gloss acrylic? I'm pretty sure I should not try to 'rub out' enamel. I do have a food-dehydrator and this body has spent a good amount of time in it. Any comments would be great.

Title says it all, I guess.

OK, everybody, thank you so much for your input. Now, is 'test-spraying' on plastic-spoons still an important technique? Again, thanks everybody!

Hi Peteski. This Mopar paint came from a paint can. The man at NAPA said that all modern automotive paint is enamel. I really do not remember what I thinned it with. I may have shot it thru my airbrush unthinned. The man said that the Marina Blue was already thin enough, by just shaking the can. I told him it would be applied to model car styrene, and he thought it would be OK. If it needs to be thinned, what would you recommend? I guess I should try various thinners and spray the results on plastic spoons. Thanks

I bought a "special mix' of Chevy Marina Blue from NAPA. Actually I bought 2 paints, the other, a Mopar color. I shot the Mopar paint through an airbrush, and the results were fantastic. I took the Marina Blue to my LHS and they said I needed a 'matching' thinner/reducer from NAPA. The person at NAPA said this was not so. (He saved me $21.00.) I suppose I should just try the Marina Blue on a plastic spoon. And if it needs to be thinned, I'm thinking isopropyl alchohol. Any comments on this would be great. Thanks

Well I guess I will put my 2 cents in: previously in this thread, I said that I had severe adhesion problems with a brand-new sheet of BMF New Improved Chrome. So, I tried the Microscale Micro Metal Foil Adhesive, and it worked just great! However, it is true that I have not had that much experience with BMF.

Oh, an application problem! OK, I get it! (Just kidding, LOL). And Snake, what is the (thinnest) kitchen foil you use? And do you, or have you, used it for "foil-casting', you know, for casting images (in CA glue) of badges on model car bodies? Thanks for the input.

I bought a set of Borrani wheels and tires from HRM. (They are beautiful). I wondered if I could chrome them using the 'Spaz Stic" method (I have some experience with Spaz Stix). So I phoned the number on the package in Maryland but the line was not being used anymore. To use Spaz Stix you must first 'prime' with gloss black enamel, then apply the chrome Spaz Stix. The detail on these wheels are very fine to say the least. Should I use shiny Metallizer paint instead of Spaz Stix? Any comments?

I could be mistaken, and often am, but I think you can buy a 'Gibson' engine lilke that, and Shapeways also has one (SBC with the unique staggered ram-tubes).