fiatboy

Thank you for all these great responses. BTW, when are they going to start 'charging' for the privilege of using this Forum?! Thanks again.

Do all 2 part puttys dry hard as a rock? Tamiya 2-part "Quick Type" does! Maybe I got a stale batch. It only responds to Dremel grinding. Help!

Yes, this question is elementary but I've got to start somewhere. ("I am an elementary girl.")

Thank you, Khils, for the help.

Any helps or hints would be great. Thanks

Thanks for the input.

I was hoping the concept car would be substantially different from the production version. Otherwise why build it, you see my point? If it was quite different I would build it for a friend. He has an actual Camaro and he's a car guy. I built him a '66 Chevelle SS396 and he really liked it. Thanks

I don't know if it is a new issue. Are not models of this subject hard to find (expensive)? Thanks

Being a concept car, is the body much different than the actual production Camaro? The photos on the box look very much like the actual production Camaro. Any info would be great. Thanks

Thank you, Belugawrx!

New panels like a hole in a hood to make room for a supercharger, for example. Actually I am building a Tamiya Countach and I want to open a couple of panels in the rear deck so as to view the engine detailing, such as it might be (plug wiring and detail painting). Naturally I would use clear acetate or clear styrene to fill in the 'holes'. I have been on Tamiya's website and they have a bewildering array of 'cutting implements', like p.e. blades and even needles! Can or will anyone help me out here? Thanks

On this 1/24 Tamiya Countach kit, there are panels engraved, maybe 3 or 4. I want to 'cut' these out and replace them with maybe clear acetate or clear styrene. I think maybe I will start a new thread referencing specifically Tamiya products.

An example of this would be cutting a hole in a hood. I know Tamiya has a number of implements for this purpose. I don't necessarily want the thinnest blade. I have a Tamiya kit of the Countach. I'd like to cut holes in the rear deck to view the engine detailing I've done (plug wires and paint-detailing). Thanks

I have read the best 1-part glazing putty is 'Bondo'. Any comments would be welcome. Thanks

Has anyone tried this method? And if so, what brand do you recommend, the adhesive that is? Thanks

Boy, U guys R great...again!

Was the Dodge Charger Daytona ever kitted with a proper NASCAR chassis under it? You know, roll cage, suspension, engine, wheels/tires, etc., etc. Thanks

"Cornwall Model Boats". "Super Styrene" rod. The largest diam. they offer is 4.5mm. It is not expensive.

Please cancel my dumb question.

I have used "Super Styrene" (by Raboesch?). It bends and stays bent without heat. I got it from a place in the UK.

When I shake the bottle it gets 'foamy'.

Is the engine included a Big Block? I am building '66 Olds Toronado resin by Speed City Resin. The Olds 442 W30 has a nice seperate frame from the floor-board, and of course the V8 engine.

Can I thin it with water? I think mine has gotten too thick. Thanks

Hi Mike999. You mentioned that you also tried Tamiya "Surface Putty" as well as the "Quick Type" Tamiya. Is the Tamiya "Surface Putty" similar to "Bondo glazing spot putty"? Is the Tamiya Surface Putty a one-step material? Is the Bondo glazing spot putty also one-step? Thanks

I am building a resin kit. There is a big gap between the donor kit dash and the cowl with the vents and w. wipers. So I'll be using a big lump of it. Slow drying time I think is a must. If I end up with a coarse surface, I should be able to apply some spot putty like Bondo which I think is 1 part; or Tamiya. You guys are great. Thanks