fiatboy

Has anybody tried to build up the front suspension on this kit? I have and I gave up! Easier to reproduce in metal, I think.

Well, I think I am going to get me a glue gun. I want to be able to pick up the whole closed case and turn it upside down to view the chassis detail. And this model has all 4 wheels 'on the ground'. I do not have to correct a wonky build, with all due respect. As far as modifying the build, I use a lot of CA glue, so I wouldn't be able to take it apart, I don't think. But I think I am going to use more and more regular styrene-glue (or cement) so I can more easily take it apart to rebuild or modify. So what do the rest of you think of the hot-glue-gun idea?

I'm speaking of the clear styrene cases to display finished model cars (1/24-1/25 scale). I was thinking of maybe of using Gorilla glue on the tires where they contact the styrene case. I thought CA or epoxy would be a bit much. Any thoughts any body? Thanks

Hello CapSat 6. I prefer the highest-performance one: most spoilers, biggest engine, etc. I just think it is great, this forum and it's users! Thanks.

I'd rather not go with a pre-decorated body. It seems to me that a lot of these modern Challengers look very similar. I think one of the model-car magazines did a 'comparo' on 2 different brands of Challenger kits. My neighbor wants me to build her a model. Help!

If you are looking for the actual BOOKS,. try Alibris Used Books. AND, they have a special section for RARE books.

Did anybody ever kit the '77 Olds Cutlass 442? Anything close to the '77, Maybe a '76 or '78? Thanks

Thank you so much!

Really all I need is a chassis with nicely detailed front-suspension. And the longer the wheelbase the better. The recommendation part: If I have to buy a new kit, what would be a less-expensive kit but with good detail. I intend to build a salt-flat racer with front suspension and (maybe) a 'solid rear suspension'. Thanks

What do you use, then, for a distributor 'blank'? The ones in kits are pretty small. Thanks

Yeah I really like MicroScale Liquitape; it is good for tacking things together. But if you leave the parts too long together, then you can't remove the excess and that is a problem.

Do you have to be a subscriber to "ModelCarsMagazine" to use this forum? (I am). Also, approx. how many people use this forum? Thanks

When I see photos of some model cars, it looks like some have larger diameter plug wires. Anybody know anything about this? Thanks

I bought a 'Miter Rite' from MicroMark. I think it is the best because it is micro-adjustable from 180 degrees to 360 degrees, and it is not too expensive, maybe around $30.00.

I am scratch building the chassis for a salt-flat racer that would, I estimate, do 200 mph. Do you think I could go with no rear suspension like the Top Fuel dragsters? Solid mounted engine/trans./rear axle? Thanks

I like the video showing how to make a mixer using a jig-saw ("Sawzall" style). Thanks as always.

Thank U very much for all the info!

I guess I mean most affordable.

are there special tools?

My preferred method is to use the "Badger" battery operated mixer with the little propeller on the end. But I don't know how many of these mixers I've gone through. Another method I've tried is the shaker-type mixer with the rubber band that lasts about 2 months. Some people say they just shake the paint-jar; maybe with a B-B in the jar. Anyway, another "Badger" mixer just crapped out on me again. I would gladly pay a premium for a mixer of higher quality and longevity. Thanks

Hello friends. I have looked all over (online) for someone to sell me some Zero Paint. Where do you 'guys' get it? I've tried Amazon. Thanks

I will merely paint the wire the same color as the head liner. Not too 'fancy'. Thanks you guys.

I am building the Pyro 1/32 Blower Bentley.

I want to glue an LED to the inside interior roof like a courtesy light of yore. I want to show off the "beautiful" interior work I've done. Any suggestions, please?