Dragonhawk1066

The hood sits nice and flush and opens nicely after the trimming of the front of the inner fenders. Also, while fitting perfectly initially, after attaching the body to the chassis the front air dam is about 1/2mm short. I ended up cutting a couple pieces of strip styrene and placing them on the edges of the air dam so they catch the inner fenders. I also had to trim the front bumper behind the turn signals to clear the strips. With that done, it's all finished.

Thanks! I'm just going with it. You have to get pretty close to notice it, and while it may be quite evident on the show table, it'll never see one, lol. It'll look pretty good in my display cabinet whenever I get one, lol.

The instructions say to sand the top front edge of the wheel wells, so I used my rotary tool to whittle it down. After a test fit, I noticed they needed to be ground down some more, but I went with the sprue cutters this time. I cut even with the indentation for the hood pin pivots so as to not have to keep popping the body on and off. There should be plenty of clearance now, and everything else lines up quite well with the stance looking pretty spot-on, so hopefully tomorrow I can pop the body on one last time and get it glued down.

I wet-sanded, polished, and waxed the body a few days ago, but I see that I messed up a bit with the clear. I ended up over thinning it and spraying it on too heavy because while I was wet-sanding, after I wiped off the excess moisture, the surface was still a tad soft and some lint from the paper towels I used ended up getting stuck on. It's not bad enough, for me personally, to strip and start over but it is there. After that adventure, applied the BMF on Friday, which was a fairly quick operation as there isn't much trim to do on this year Corvette. I also managed to finish the interior and complete the rolling chassis.

Yes, they really seem to have a very realistic scale metallic look. More so than the craft paints I normally use, which really aren't bad either.

Yes, they're all pearls. I also did the AMT 1969 Plymouth GTX in Pearl Silver, but that doesn't show off in pics very well.

I really like using Createx paints, as well as craft paints. I use their 4011 Reducer, 4030 Balancing Clear, and 5607 Retarder when mixing pretty much at their recommended ratios and they spray very well. I tested Transparent Deep Red, but it seemed too dark to get a good idea on transparency. The UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear is a great clear coat as well and I have started using it as my go-to clear. The '29 Ford Roadster is Pearl Plum over a Metallic Charcoal Gray base, the '55 Chevy Cameo is Pearl Turquoise over a medium gray primer, and the '67 Shelby Mustang is Pearl Tangerine over a Metallic Gray base, all with UVLS 4050 Clear for an idea of how they look.

The orange is the Revell Germany boxing, the green is for the U.S. market. The instruction manual for the Germany kit is much better illustrated and the decals might be a little different, but it's the same kit.

That sure looks enticing! I kind of can't believe none of the regular kit manufacturer's ever did this one. It wouldn't happen to have come with a set of decals, those flames would be pretty tough to try to paint on?

I was blessed enough to be able to make a trip to Hobby Lobby today to pick up a few kits for the first time in probably 6-8 months or so. Unfortunately it'll probably be another 6-8 months or longer for my next spree, so I took advantage. I was going to limit myself to 3 or 4 at the most, but the wife chose the '56 Thunderbird as a request, and talked me into the '71 Cuda for the $15 sale price. The '67 Vette and '69 Chevelle were the prime scores for me. No '71 442, '70 Road Runner, '85 Z28, or '55 Chevy to be had despite the shelf stickers for them. I got a few paints including the Pearl Magenta for the T-bird and some more much needed Createx Clear while we were there too. I also ordered some more tiny drill bits from Amazon.

Great color and very nice engine details!

Great color choice on a good looking Ferrari!

That looks excellent!

Nice work!

In that case, I'd probably hang out there every day, LOL.

I sprayed the Createx UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear on this morning. Although Createx recommends a 10% Reducer ratio, I found about 25% for the clear is the sweet spot for my Paasche H airbrush at around 22 psi. I sprayed 3 medium coats followed by 2 medium-heavy coats with about 10-15 minutes in-between the coats. Createx also recommends a minimum 48 hours before wet-sanding, so I usually give about 72 hours which puts me hopefully wet-sanding on Thursday.

Yes it is. I'd probably drive by that place every day if I lived that close, LOL

Here's a few more of my recent faves. The Shelby Cobra and '99 Mustang were both airbrushed with custom craft paint mixtures with masked and airbrushed black stripes and Krylon Short Cuts Gloss Clear. The '67 Shelby Mustang is Createx Pearl Tangerine over a metallic gray base, and pearl black airbrushed stripes with Createx UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear.

Nice restoration! It looks excellent!

Looks good! Surprising about the Tamiya, it's the absolute best spray paint available. As mentioned a few times, put the can in hot tap water for about five minutes before spraying. I also spray primer on everything before painting, it just eliminates any possible reaction the paint can have with the plastic. My only other thought would be maybe the paint got really cold or froze somewhere along the line, that would cause it to come out blotchy and the clear not to be glossy.

Yeah, I was hoping for that deep burgundy/purplish look.

I got the paint sprayed on this morning. I used Anita's Dark Plum, thinned and sprayed through my airbrush. It took a total of 2 light, 4 medium, and 2 heavy coats to get even coverage and the tone I wanted. It surprised me how tricky it was to get the even coverage with how dark the color is. First pic is after 2 light coats, second after 2 light and 2 medium, and then the final color. It'll sit the rest of today and tomorrow before I get the Createx UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear sprayed on hopefully Monday. I'm kind of excited to see the kind of depth the clear will give it.

While I really wanted to replicate the brown Vette, I realize that it will just look too similar to the '68 I built in November of 2019 (first pic), even though I will be re-doing that one in a different color due to the clear cracking. That's why my plan was to go ahead and paint this one Brown, but after seeing the paint comparison results I decided that I needed to come up with a different color. My first instinct was the Silver that I planned to use as a basecoat. Red and Maroon were serious color possibilities as well with a Dark Plum color as a dark horse candidate. My wife was really drawn to the Dark Plum, so I sprayed a spare hood to see how it would look, and really liked the result. I ended up spraying a couple of light coats of Stynylrez white primer over the previous tan primer on the body to stay consistent with my test spray. I'm glad I hadn't sprayed the interior in the Khaki and brown yet, so the flat black and semi-gloss black were sprayed over the tan primer. Body color pics tomorrow, hopefully.

Thanks guys.

Thanks for the info, it seems like this kit can either give one fits or go together as smooth as silk. Yours looks spot on for stance and wheel centering.