MikeMc

either a bad tip....but I suspect more shaking and warm it up

Thanks to both Chris and Charlie!!! Bookmark!

I'm glad that you can finally get back to both this cobra and your bench!! Now lift this sucker into orbit!!!

Verry nice!!! I think a blackwash on the motor would make it nicer!!

Nuttin better than a Boss429!!!!!!!......OK a SOHC....but thats not factory!

Shop truck??? Weathered red oxide primer..

We will never forget...

YUP......I actually saw it!!!!!!

WOOF....WOOF!!!!!

Gotta agree about the birthday......but this is 2010........Virgins??????

I'm using the AMT/ reissueed stevens and it comes with the 2 port injection no scoop or front pump...and the blower case is different. Put the parts in bleach...15 min later they are stripped. If you want the clear coat off...5 min in yellow easy off!

Early or late Power train??? I can imagine a honkin 502 nestled in there...........

Did mine with a mesh grill and Tamiya smoke on the lights....... Oh yeah.....the top was chopped a bit

I'm just lovin this intake.....3 deuces in a row

I know you will make it purdy.....but this I gotta see!!!!!!

follow this one....... http://www.modelcars...h=1&#entry51109 and this one........... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18901&st=0&p=165404&hl=dehydrator&fromsearch=1&#entry165404

OK some dehydrator basics. First , thanks to Spyder for the pix...Glad you found them helpful! He added the inside!! 105 degrees will work perfect. If you look at the pix Spyder posted you can see all the vents and holes. I use a cheep(2@9.99) refrigerator thermometer. I lift off the "adj"ring and put the therm in one of the slits.....keeping it towards the edge. I find lacquers are dry for repainting/taping in 3 hours in and 1/2 hour cooling time Enamels I would reccomend 8 to 10 hours, unless cut with lacquer thinner The beauty of the dimmer setup on this style is when you add or remove rings you can dial in the temp ...so you do not melt anything. I do NOT know what temp works best for resin parts....just styrene

wheel weights and tilt windshield.............

Now ya better get up Harry....The MARINES are onto you!!!!

I think they look great!

another note You can shoot uerathanes without hardener added....yes they will dry !

no I didn't have a great detail shot before....let me see what I can do now!!

almost correct...do not use acid core due to leakage. my rosen core solders are 4 years old to current and no leaks yet...solid core is usually to thick and stiff to work with . I think Dave Zinn has a shot of the acid leaking headers ...

I love this ....the frame may not be orig...but it should!!

Gotta agree about the fun level...and the long and low , Here it is with the blower linked up....