MikeMc

Kenny and I agree.....Kool '34 Now chop that suckah...........

But let JH stay there.....we don't need any more "moderators"

model......rear springs and wheel centers.....

A: live with it B: buy the compressor C: use a brush......

since its already been chopped I think it needs to be sectioned now....

NO........ STOP WASTING $$$$$

C'mon George ...Liza is still in makeup

He really was a nice guy....He used to do the State Fair circuits as a pitchman....really was down to earth!

A stock driveshaft and some tubing along with my trusty Zona.....TA DA!!! blackwash the u joints polish or paint the tube.......

that is because of the rear "helper" springs.. Ken Kitchen addressed this in his build in MCM issue #138 jan 2009 pg 39 you do have that issue??? and Model Expo has both kits at great prices now the L700, trailer , and '40 ford at $20. off and Red Wagon at $10.99 ...(offer W371)

Sorta.....this pic shows the "hat" over the top of the wires.... heres some others..... http://www.magsarus.com/vertexmags.htm http://www.donzig.com/vertex.html heres one wired..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-Chevy-Do...bayphotohosting

In order to brush properly the paint must be the right % of paint and thinner(or reducer and thinner) when mixed correctly the paint is like milk...swirl milk in a glass and see how it flows back to the bottom... thats what you want for airbrushing....and check your needle and psi. It all counts I recomend Bob Downies airbrush book...Donn Yost also has a killer DVD!!

Morning George...is Harry up yet????

Add one more TALENTED FREAK SHOW... never cared for him but Thrillar is still the #1 selling pop album of all time.....

WOW !!!!!! I think that this is one of the simplest, most logical and well written paint tips I have ever seen here or elsewhere. I have done the same steps as you, and as I refined my techniques the results speak for themselves! I just like to "delay " the final polish till everything is rockhard. As I live in a tropical area ( I get cold at 65f) I'm used to shooting in warm temp...but love my dehydrator!! THANKS DAVE!!!!

I do this for tu tones...all paints are lacquers with a 15 min window..... Prep sand and clean the body, spray your base white LET IT DRY!!!!!! After its dry, mask for your stripes, shoot a thin coat of CLEAR...Then shoot your black stripes....let dry for a while and pull your tape off...back over itself...then shoot your clear and now let it dry....polish next week.....Enjoy!!!!!

Or make a voltage regulator and use a thermometer....

Thats cause it was a 10 day build.....lighten up Bill.....Killer build...keep it coming!!!

One of the tricks they also use is a slider yoke to prevent bind I don't know either Bob, but it reminds me of buddys that have 4X4 trucks...lets see how much I spend on the truck for a weekend of fun!!!

I agree....most of the MM lacquers are thick...vs Tamiya...I've worked with both of them (Diamond Dust is a favorite basecoat) and I prefer Tamiya, but MM is $$$ better! I usually clear with the color and love my TS13!!

Good Call Marc!!! thanks for your name!!

It has nothing to do with the box.....GREAT LIGHTING!!!!!!

or cowl lights from a few others.........

I think that says it all............

If the bags are done correctly and the right sway bars added, a '69 chevelle will keep up with late model Vettes......