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Everything posted by bobss396
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This is our first show since 2019 and a lot of work has gone into making it happen. All of the vendor tables are sold out, we are expecting a good turn out of modelers and models. Please try to make it if you can. https://www.liarsmodelcarbuilders.com/_files/ugd/fc9717_9b7bb038cd1e46158f1dc13e9b19f246.pdf
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I learned to use a primer around 1997-1998 so I could use hotter paints. I did ruin a few car bodies as a kid shooting some of my dad's paints I found in the garage. Fast forward to today, even the new car touch-up paints are not as "hot" as they used to be. I have to try a sample of Duplicolor on some scrap plastic. It is a rare build that does not have something like a couple of sink marks to fix. Back in the old AOL hobby board days, we used to go back and forth about the use of primer in general and I learned that the final body flaws are fixed up in the priming process. Lately with odds and ends like front end parts, I'll shoot the paint on bare plastic. I do wash most of them to get the mold release, etc off them. 3D printed parts do well without primer.
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What would YOU like to see as a model
bobss396 replied to JeroenM3's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
If they show up, I'll see what they have for the future. I just like the old street stock and bomber cars. The 1st duty of a junkie is to protect his stash. -
I had heard about things called "wolf" crickets. My cat was chasing after one a few nights ago. I got up to see what it was... holy carp.... I gave it a few tries to stomp on it, but it jumped out of the way. I finally dropped a box on it... squish.
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As a teen we would hang out at a local cemetery and drink beer, smoke whatever we had. Just lean back on a headstone and relax. We never saw anything odd going on.
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I was around 13 at the time. Until I got into a model club in 1998, I had never heard of priming a model. I took a break from building models from 1973 to 1995.
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Love the paint, I will have to try some of their candy colors.
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It is still a nice kit. I have an OG one built from 1969 in a box in my closet. It was molded in light blue. I never saw the need to paint it, but I was 14 at the time.
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Good idea to get fit woes tackled early on. I see more than a few guys who paint the body first and are in a pickle down the road.
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What would YOU like to see as a model
bobss396 replied to JeroenM3's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I will possibly be seeing some reps from Atlantis on Saturday at our show. I'm not sure how far up the food chain they are. But I'm going to pitch for a line of Saturday Night stock cars. Like street stocks and bomber cars seen on small short tracks. Candidates would be a Nova, Chevelle, Mustang, Camaro, etc. -
I have some boxes... boxed up. I'll have to dig them out and snap some pictures. Almost all AMT Trophy Series.
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Loosen the lid on Testors enamel square bottles.
bobss396 replied to R. Thorne's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
It does. I have had some old ones I had to get drastic with. Now after each use I clean the bottle and cap with lacquer thinner. -
I use it as-is for floor insulation on stock cars. It is probably too thin to peel without losing some or most of it.
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I just had to remove a few. I used scotch tape and gently pulled them off. I did some many years back, used freezer tape and the paint (no primer) came up with the decals.
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Very cool. I built one as a kid, I recall it as being a tiny car.
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“ BUILDING THE COVERS “ Vol # 61 K. S . PITMAN’S 1933 S & S WILLYS
bobss396 replied to M W Elky's topic in Drag Racing
Excellent replica. I have somewhere all the makings to do the Ohio George '33. -
Richard Petty’s 1968 Roadrunner
bobss396 replied to Horrorshow's topic in Stock Cars (NASCAR, Super Stock, Late Model, etc.)
I believe it was vinyl. Some said the pebbled texture was an aerodynamic advantage. BUT... team Petty would at times do something to distract people from looking at other things on their cars. -
I saw that car run at Shady Side, a great gasser!
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1988 Pontiac, Neil Bonnett
bobss396 replied to Ben269's topic in WIP: Stock Cars (NASCAR, Super Stock, Late Model, etc.)
I just pulled out a set of old kit decals to use on some other stock car. They were old... I just used a portion of the sponsors and the border was badly yellowed. Not good on a white body. -
Safety in the 50's
bobss396 replied to TarheelRick's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
I bought a "project" Nova stock car in 1982. It came with a black pipe roll cage from something else. Possibly an old coach modified. The cage was loose, so out it came. We borrowed a frame table and tackled it. Cut off the ugly and replaced anything sketchy with good quality roll cage tubing. It wound up being a good cage. The trick with those cars was tying it into the unibody construction. -
Safety in the 50's
bobss396 replied to TarheelRick's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Black pipe (less the cast fittings...) was permitted in the stock care we drove. Heavy, but strong. It was standard for rub rails and bumper embellishment. We built one stock car with 2" water pipe, fairly thin wall compared to black pipe. We got to tech inspection and with some back and forth, they tested it and it passed the crush test. Another guy rolls in with a new car, it goes to tech and draws a crowd. The workmanship on the welding was great.. only it was made with SWING SET tubing. The inspector just said... OUT. It wasn't even painted, still green and yellow. One guy we raced with had this huge "fuel cell" in the trunk. Most of us back then used VW tanks. This thing was a huge cube, the owner said it held 20 gallons and it was FULL. It was made from .050" thick COPPER. With paint, it passed for steel. -
Our club show is on the 11th. I'm a kit vendor, but hope to find one of these kits, maybe 2. I had the whole lineup when they came out years back. I recall them as being pretty basic and easy to build. I would like to do one with some after market parts, like wheels and tires. Maybe add a fuel cell and do some wiring and plumbing. The supplied roll cage is over an 1/8" in diameter, so that has to be fixed up.
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I generally use Zap-a-Gap medium CA glue. I have a few tubes of the thinner stuff from Ace Hardware. I'll have to try a couple of samples of each.