bobss396

VCG Resins has one you may like. https://www.vcgresins.com/shop/p/off-road-winch

Very nice... any Flintstone resin product is a challenge.

CA glue will fog clear and chrome, so that is out. Now all I use is 2-part 5-minute epoxy, wait until it thickens up so it won't run where you don't want it. Lately I have made up mounting tabs so the glass will "nest" in place and won't move around. I will use little strips of tape to hold the glass. Apply a few dabs of epoxy and remove the tape later on.

When in doubt, run a test of some unused decals if possible. Slixx used to be impervious to clears like Tamiya TS-13. Lacquer clears, you may be asking for trouble. I used Krylon acrylic over some kit decals... one almost immediately cracked into a million pieces. I figured I would wait and sand it off once dry. I looked at it a few hours later and the decal somehow fixed itself, no sign it was damaged. It laid back down. Clear, I would go with light-ish coats. I did that '37 Chevy modified, no clear over the decals and the car is pearl white. That was 12 years ago and the number decals have yellowed around the edges.

I bought a set...

Coo Coo Marlin was the guy who ran the pre-Daytons 500 twin 100 mile races without a fuel stop and WON one of them. NASCAR and other big named teams had a collective canary over an independent driver pulling that off. This is why they went to 125 miles the next year.

This is what I have for my build, lots more than what comes in with the kit sheet. I have not been to Randy's site in a while. With hope the decals are still around. I would try to see if Mike's Decals possibly has them. https://www.mikesdecals.com/products_new.php

Those are thick. I have been using sanding sticks from a beauty supply store. The brand is Tropical Shine and they last a long time, providing they get washed when they get loaded up. Great for wet sanding too.

One of those iconic kits. I always liked the steerable wheels and opening doors.

Not sure if I have that same kit, I have several Monte kits and a set of Yesterday's decals for it. On my bucket list to build.

You make things that we need, we appreciate it. I buy so far on eBay but will check your site out.

What size wire fits through the boots? I have been using larger gauge wire to get my boots. Thanks.

That purple is quite rich... noted for future builds.

This kit is the same as the original issue. For more detail you could slip a '62 chassis under it.

The one by me they rearranged the model section, looks a tad smaller. Paint and scratch building stuff is about the same. They have a decent amount of glues too.

I have a HL by me and they have the 40% off thing going pretty often. I buy my primer there, they also have MM lacquer spray cans, some Evergreen and some K&S stock. Need plastic storage boxes? They have loads of them for a good price. Also small plastic bags in the bead aisle.

I have the Evergreen version, it works great on thin stuff and handy to make a bunch of the same part.

This keeps me off the street. A '59 Ford Custom 300 I picked up in Denver in 2014 as a shell. I put in a 355 SBC worth about 425 HP, Muncie M20, 3.89 locker rear. Underneath the car, everything is new.

I sell now and then at shows, but not 2-3 a year. You need to find guys like Len Feinberg and Dave Burkett (aka Model King). They do shows in the north-east. I know of one guy in my club that does shows, I'll ask him if he is interested. So far I buy your products on eBay, our few local shops stock almost no after market parts at all. And they have no interest in getting that going, they mainly do RC cars.

I talk with a club member who also prints, he says that scaling can be a big problem. So he has had to fudge some prints to get the sizing where he wants it. I have bought some masters and booster combos from VCG Resins that are quite nice. The GM ones take a .020" braided line nicely, the Ford ones are a little undersize and hard to drill out without breakage.

The last one I built got out of hand in a big way. Sometimes simpler is the way to go and the primer red looks killer.

I will have to try it. I have had some kit chrome (Salvino modified wheels) that oven cleaner, CSC, bleach wouldn't touch.

I find it too easy to blow through edges, etc using the thicker pads. They tend to wrap around things. I have a set somewhere... damned if I can find them.. which may be a good thing. I have a couple of DM 9000 kits, one unopened. I buy odd cloths like 1000, 1500, 1800 and 2400 since they are not part of the kits. Again, I cut them in 4 equal-ish pieces and mark them on the back. If they start looking funky, I toss them. The 8,000-12,000 cloths load up fast, so I tend not to use them at all. I go to 6000 and use a polishing medium from there,

Thanks, I will look on the Ron Coon site. I have to measure up some existing tires I have for comparison. I have used the ASA wheels before.

Norm Veber makes a nice crab-style distributor that wires up nicely. I have one done up ( in a '48 Ford build I have going, IIRC), I have to dig it out.