bobss396

Nice job on the headers, very slick. I used the solder on a set of 6-cylinder headers I did on a Monte Carlo stock car.

Lately I have been pinning fiddly parts together with either brass rod or stainless steel pins from McMaster Carr. It does help a lot and these kits will surely need some help.

I haven't seen the Nomad in a while. I offered to swap my '59 Ford for it... he did think about it. It may have had the side glass painted, or it may have had Nomad wheel wells slapped on it. I have to dig up my spool of .062" solder, great for making headers. My brother did some for a '57 Chevy, he lucked into some dead-soft aluminum wire that was tossed out at work.

I have a few '65 Ford kits, great donors for many projects. I used the '65 Chassis under a '66 stock car a while ago. The 427 is hard to beat. I think I saw the green kit in a hobby shop, possibly it was a '66. I have to check evilBay too.

I might try making one up, thanks. The style I came up was used many moons ago and usually looks great when done. I may hang an oil cooler off the side like I have done with other builds. I'm still in the priming-sanding stage on most parts.

What a great resource, I just ran across it. Is RB Motion still in business? I tried to order something the other day, no success. I'll have to call him up. He used to be a vendor at the NNL East a while back. I use the metric system mostly. Since .040" = 1", the rest comes naturally to me.

I like it. Definitely a lot of work but worth it. The Buddy Nova pictured, I know the builder/owner. Buddy is a Bulldog that goes to cruise nights. He also has a '55 Nomad wagon sedan delivery.

I started this one 2 weeks ago using the Ridge Runner kit. I did the usual, took about 5/16" out of the chassis to get the engine closer to the firewall. Cut out the crossmember to get it back accordingly. Took out he fuel cell and about a 1/4" from the rear of the chassis. I used a 3D printed Muncie & bellhousing from VCG Resins, really clean stuff, needed zero prep. The headers, I extended the tubes using 3/32" styrene tubing, added 1/8" so it gets them away from the body. Other stuff in the box are a few front bumper options, spoilers made from .005" brass, a NASCAR donor rear-end cooling pump as a steering quickener that will be on the firewall. Also will mount clutch & brake masters from a Craftsman truck kit. Most items I have set up to be pinned with 1/32" stainless steel pins. I need to get some 3/64" pins, makes life easier. The roll cage is a parts box creation, the kit one was too wonky for me. I cut out the transmission tunnel and made a new one from .030" styrene stock. The body is close to 100% ready for paint, the chassis needs a little more work. I had a flash issue with the camera, so the pix are a tad dark.

I never tried cutting them up. Some of the other kit headers interfere with the front chassis. I tried the truck headers on a Salvino Pontiac Lemans and they were a no go.

Tires are resin pieces that were badly formed. I trued them up on a lathe, painted with TS63 black and lettered.

I have one going, going with a Richie Evans tribute. Some of the instructions are sketchy, but a well made kit. I have 3 of them, but look for the ones with the extra parts pack included.

'72-ish Vega Modified made from the Rat Trap kit. Finished early this year, got way too complicated and I started and stopped the build more than a few times. Aluminum bumpers, paint is Model Master Orange Metallic. Wheels I got from the NNL East years ago.

'37 Chevy Modified from a few years back. It made the magazines, won some trophies. Now showing some age with yellowed decals. Bumpers and wheels I made from aluminum stock.

I have fixed chipped decals with a dab of X22 clear with success. I did a Pinto modified as a consignment a month or so ago. Old parts box decals went on and I shot some TS13 clear over them. Some of the decals looked like a dry lake bad right away, I was resigned to a strip job. BUT... once the clear dried, the cracked decals looked perfect.

Those crazy headers are something that Junior Johnson tried for a few months and scrapped them. Too bad they still show up in kits. I have donor kits I take the headers from, I really should make some from solder.

Nah... I thing risk vs reward on something like that. Now the 1965 Galaxie big block is something I have used, it details up nicely. My next NASCAR modified will have one in it.

Thanks, will check them out. I believe I deal with Burbank from eBay. Edit: On order, thanks again.

Nice. Morgan had a lot of great rides, even the Race Hill Farms Buick that was mostly driven by Ron Bouchard.

I want one. My first real stock car was a '72 Torino with a 429 and later a 460. I ran it at one track, my partner at another. The 1st year he won a championship, I was 10th in points and 1st in a snowflake league. It was re-bodied with a '74 Montego body in 1983. Same roof line as the kit.

I like the air cleaner... nice when you don't have to detail a carburetor to the nth degree.

Can I just order #220? I have hit Barnes and Nobel last week, nothing... I'll go back today.

Oven cleaner works well enough. I had an old built up '62 Ford I took apart, the body paint came off with CSC.. the interior, nothing worked, so I primed and painted over it. Brake fluid may have worked. Sometimes I have scuffed the paint with #220 grit, lightly. This lets the stripper medium work more betterer. Since my Magic Chef dehydrator took a dump, I need another base. I see them on eBay. I ran across my wiring schematic and made some copies of it, so I would like to get that going. I made the surround from 10" chimney flashing, pop-riveted at the seam and to one of the trays. My brother made a shallower one using some sort of 1/16"-ish plastic he found at work. I got my thermometer at a supermarket, fit it permanently to the lid, it runs horizontally. I notched the surround so it drops in nicely.

The Ez Off I use is from the dollar store, the lemon scented stuff I find to be weak. But it does the trick. My dehydrator is not working, I need another base. I had wired in a house dimmer switch, it worked for a long time. I run it at 105, I have a candy thermometer built into the lid.

Definitely a cool kit, glad I salted a few away. I have one I started a few years back. I was at the NNL East when the Revell guys debuted the Merc kit. I told them that they screwed the pooch and should have done a '51 instead, they were far from pleased. It would be cool to see a '51-conversion in resin or 3D print.

I stripped an old Tamiya rattle-can job recently, used Castrol Super Clean and it was a chore. Wound up wet-sanding the rest off in a course of a few days. I'm not big on decanting Tamiya sprays. The cans work so well as is. I have a heavy hand with anything I paint, no mist coats here. For clear, the TS13 is good, again it sprays well and dries hard. The X22 is too soft for my liking.