bobss396

My brother was fishing, maybe around 1970 at a local pond and somehow snagged a swan.... he had to cut the line just to save himself.

I have 3-point belts in my '59 Ford that retract well. I have had to make a couple of hard stops and they work. My '66 Chevy, they do it poorly so far and I will replace them. Belts have come a very long way since 1969.

There are 2 reactions from a crash, the primary is what the car hits, the 2nd is people inside the car hitting the dash or whatever. Seatbelts should have been better from the onset, but the public would have rebeled against them. There were cars with the 3rd belt tucked against the headliner in clips, I cannot think if I ever saw one taken down. Then there was the belt warning buzzer to deal with, either the buzzer was bypassed, or the belts were joined and people sat on them. I still know people now with new cars who do not use belts at all. Mine goes on before I start the car. I was around 10 and saw my 1st car accident at a shopping center, someone with a '58 Ford t-boned another car. The windshield from the Ford popped out, trim and all. It skipped over the car that was hit, then skipped onto the pavement. It never fell over, remained upright the whole time, not even a crack in it. Back then they were made to pop out on impact, going through one was a death sentence.

I will "color sand" primer if it has rough areas or picked up some crud. I like primers that lay down dead-flat right from the can. Duplicolor, Tamiya and My. Hobby do that. I do have some sand paper from Auto Zone, I believe the finest they have is #2000 or #2500.

We got lucky with Jo's kittens that we found at a town shelter. They were fixed, had all the shots and were chipped for $100 each. They are strictly indoor cats, as my Ivan is too.

This looks great, nice work. I think I have a set of his '64 Mercury decals. He was a great driver for the era.

One of the ideas behind the test was to show the severity of an off center crash. The standard tests used to be square head-to-head or a t-bone. One kid I knew lived next to a tow yard. This was around 1964 to 1968. We saw some gruesome bloody wrecks.. eventually we stopped looking so close. One was a 1956 or so Chrysler that was hit by a train.

If you do want to use sandpaper, get something good like 3M from an auto parts store or Ace Hardware. I use it now and then. I cut it into small pieces like 1" x 2" and wet sand with it. Ultimately you are best off with something like Detail Master cloths.

One of Mr. Beers, my girlfriend's daughter's cat. He is almost 7 with extra toes up front. The other is Bleu, she just turned 11 months. This is one of my girlfriend Jo's pair of kittens.

The car was featured in a couple of magazines and did well at shows. It took me about a solid year to fully complete the build. Thanks for the compliments.

In a dehydrator, I would say that 4 to 6 hours at no more than 105 F should do it. I never run mine hotter than that.

The girls rough housing a bit. VID_20240812_191507.3gp

I fins them fascinating, especially when a whole squadron goes by. I have seen them in my yard and also on the beach, must have been over 1000 of them on a mission.

All of Josh's stuff is amazing. He was the 1st 3D source I started buying from.

A ton of work but worth it. I find myself conflicted when I paint a slice-and-dice project, the primer and paint hide all the groovy craftsmanship that goes into it.

Subscribed, I just picked one up... a model kit. Look around on eBay for cowl scoops, Bandit Resins has some that are good. For the 1:1 airbags, there was a retrofit kit to eliminate the costly bag systems. IIRC it had either coil springs or coilovers.

Very realistic. I have a few cans of Duplicolor paint I use almost strictly on interiors, it has the right balance and is never too shiny.

The SA contest annual was hard to beat, I'm lucky to have been featured in a few issues. Their forum was also pretty good. I will look for the new magazine, I look forward to seeing someone taking from there shooting models at shows.

I'm lazy and don't have a dedicated model building area, so spray cans it is. I do own 3-4 airbrushes, some really nice ones. I make sure the body or whatever is as well-prepped as possible, smooth is good. Duplicolor primer sprays very well, I go back and forth with the Mr. Hobby line, which I lucked onto about a year ago. The 1st coat, I turn the body upside down (also with initial color coats) so I get those hard to reach spots. After the whole thing is primed, I look it over for body work flaws, fly turds, etc. Usually a 2nd coat is required. I will sand out any flaws with something like a 1800-2400 DM cloth. If the last primer coat is not dead-smooth, I'll wet sand that as well until I am happy with it. I'm also not a fan of "mist" coats, I tend to have a heavy hand with anything I prime of paint. Which gets me into trouble now and then. Lastly, practice makes perfect. If I have been away from models for a few months, I lose my painting edge. It takes a little to get it back to where it was.

One paint that has surprised me in a good way are the MM Extreme Lacquers. The cans spray quite well with great pressure. I have been doing some of my best recent work with them.

Years ago I took one of my brother's models to a show, he was away on business. It was a Chevy truck, all Tamiya acrylics. It was done for at least a few weeks, he placed the hood in a paper envelope. When I unpacked it at the show, the envelope printed on the hood, but it still showed well. This was before we got into dehydrators.

Either .030 or .040 half round should work. I have used .020 and .030 square to make drip rails or to replace badly molded ones.

I cut the top off the cage and made an entirely new one. I have to look for progress pictures of the car. I found one from the NNL East either in 2000 or 2001.

This one I dug out to take to a recent club meeting. It was built in 2001, the gun metal roof paint was done on 9/11/2001. Body is Monogram from something I built around 1996 and didn't like. The chassis is from a Monogram Tim Richmond kit. The blue paint is from MCW and I air brushed it. It still shows well considering how old it is.

Before 1965, no US car had a crumple-zone. They also had the deadly one piece steering column. This is why I use 3-point belts in my old cars. Padded dashes came about maybe in 1954. They were optional in some cars. A hell of a remedy anticipating a bad wreck. Not really. I doubt they helped much.