bobss396

Look up juan4you on eBay. He makes some flattie engines and other parts for them.

Shiny to a degree. You need to knock the "peaks" down. A very rough finish reflects light poorly, it reflects more as the peaks are dismissed. I don't recommend using sandpaper. I will use it sparingly and in small pieces cut out of a large sheet. You have to be aware of anything that the paper touches. The DM cloths work pretty well. I cut mine into 4 equal size pieces and mark the grit on the back with a sharpie.

He was still racing now and then. I'd catch him on MAV TV races. He rarely ran like he did many moons ago. I "retired" from racing at age 27 myself. I used to follow him in the racing papers and in the magazines. Once I saw an article, he raced with his arm in a cast. he was hardcore and will be missed.

There were 2 issues of the AMT sprays, I caught the 2nd round when they went to the Tamiya-sized cans. It said lacquer on the label. I likely never used primer on anything. This is from 1965 to around 1972 then I got out of the hobby for 23 years. I wish that paint was still around.

My brother uses the acrylics, he likes denatured alcohol as a thinner. Do you have a dehydrator? These speed up drying times quite a bit.

Yes, 3200 grit is a good place to start. If you start with too coarse a grit, it cuts the paint quicker. Too fine a grit, the cloth or paper clogs up fast. I work by the sink and have a container of water with a few drops of soap in it. With each grit, you want the model to be "uniformly dull". You are knocking the peaks off the rougher finish, it will get shinier as you progress. Stay away from edges, crown lines, etc. Experience will tell you when you are ready for the clear coat. The TS-13 is one I like with the TS line of paints. Anything I color sand, I will quit at #4000 or #6000 grit and go to clear. Edit: What are you sanding with? I like the Detail Master DM9000 set. I also have some other of their cloths, from #800 to #2400. The abrasive pads, they are thick and I find it easier to sand through edges.

Tamiya spray goes on very thin and is relatively softer that most model paints. I always started out color-sanding at 3200 grit. But go easy, always use the pads/cloths dipped in water (with a little dish soap in it) so the pads/cloths don't clog up. How many coats of paint did you give it? I like at least 2 or more.

I lived by a large tract of woods as a kid, We had it all, snakes, toads, frogs, box turtles, You name it, we had it less any skunks. If I cut the lawn in low light, I had to be aware of frogs and snakes mainly. I had a frog come out the side chute of the mower and spray guts all over my arm. I moved to the same area in 1986, I have seen ONE box turtle, no frogs or toads, I would see brown snakes and found a shedded skin on a pile of concrete in my back yard. I ran across a bunch of baby brown snakes in 1987 in the late spring. I back up to state land on 2 sides, there will never be houses built. I have seen families of fox and raccoons, possums, one here and there.

This is why I think some parts-makers do not actually use their products. If you are going to add a feature, as in a center hole, make it something that is actually useful, a standard size.

My squirrels are well behaved. I had a rotten piece of fascia on the far side of my garage a few years ago and some got inside. I chased them out and boarded it up and had it repaired when I had the roof done. My girlfriend worked with someone and raccoons got into her attic and eventually throughout the house... even into the kitchen cabinets.

I was trimming bushes last week and came across a praying mantis. Seemed to be on the young side. They get a lot bigger and darker with the fall. This one squirrel was on my deck rail a few minutes ago, he was the clean up after breakfast crew.

One of my club members has a '49 or '50 Plymouth kit, not sure if it is conventional resin or printed. I will ask him for details. I know he has a source that does custom requests, they are not at all cheap.

Simply stunning. It still blows my mind that a kit with a 1963 origin still builds up very well. No wonder I have a bunch in my stash. I like the AMT kits over the Revell ones.

I'm down to 3 or 4 primers that I really swear by, none are cheap. And not everyone has the same definition of a "good" paint job.

I have struggled with time now and then. I hoard up old kit wheel backs, so most register on the tires and not the wheels. I have to sand some parts down so they have no interference. When I had lathe access at work, I made my own adapters/wheel backs. I find that if 3D printed wheels do have a locating feature, they are often not concentric with the wheel and are an odd size. So there is little chance of taking some plastic or metal stock to mount them. My best chances are with using the kit wheel backs, or sifting through my wheel back stash.

No problem. I grabbed a bunch of Edsels some years back and only have maybe 2 Starliners. I had plans on doing a bunch of old NASCARs with them as donors.

I did a trial fit of one under the AMT '61 Ford kit and it seemed like it would work. Also the '63 Ford kit. Of course with the usual slicing and dicing as expected.

TS-68 is pretty good, I used that and like it over the TS-82 tire paint.

I thought there were clubs in the area. I recall Silent Traffic and another club that I used to see on other message boards. I recall the Philly NNL shows, have never gone to one. This is a good show, I haven't been to one in a while. https://www.superseptembershowdown.com/

The Ford was up for inspection. Haven't had it out since June. Once it cools more I'll drive it quite a bit.

Anyone got Lantern Flies? These are in stage 3 of 4... they all over the place...

I have 2 rabbits. I chase the little one out of the garden now and then.

The latest of the ladies. They are getting big!

I would have to make it detachable, that adds a lot to the length of the truck.

Hmmm... I do have a leftover plow from my '77 GMC wrecker build...