bobss396

My 2nd time doing some work on this car. Previously I had removed all the flash. Last night I re-shot some of the flat black pieces. I removed the ignition cluster and painted that too. Brush painted some silver here and there. The duct hoses took a little doing. I'd like to get some others in the series.

As of late, I am making my own. I have gotten Gofer ones in the past that were almost falling apart in the package. Other good ones if you like adding wires and what Norm Veber sells, nice looking caps and bodies in resin. Scale Repros makes some nice aluminum ones, I get them on eBay. I have some 3D printed ones, but almost a lock that the holes need to be opened up. I measure the distributor shaft first, then open the engine block with some clearance, .005" is good. Some of the 3D ones, I cut off the supplied shaft and use 1/16" aluminum tubing. Regular styrene rod will work. I install them with a dab of CA glue in the drilled hole in the block. Spark plug holes, I drill with a .026" - .029" drill in a pin vise. I drill extra deep so I can get a lot of wire in the holes. Those I secure with CA glue. If they will show, I add "boots" cut from some wire I have laying around.

I just de chromed a '40 Ford front axle using Purple Power. It left some of the lacquer, I was able to pick at the stubborn spots. The next time I will use oven cleaner. Which is not available in the two dollar stores I went to.

I use a dull flat xacto blade as a spatula. I use as little as possible, no sculpting. Just fixing up sink marks for the most part. I sand it with sanding sticks mainly.

I have some of those in my hoard. How tough was the rear glass to install? Very nicely done.

Thanks, still doing some work here and there on it. I have too many things going at once... the story of my life. I have most of the suspension parts painted.I opened up the inner wheel wells somewhat so I can tip the top of the front wheels in to get the negative camber these cars had. This is the approximate look I am after. This is what we call an "opening day" shot. No body damage. And as the season progressed, more tire clearance would be added. Maybe some door bars or "cow catcher" bumper upgrades too.

I ran across one of these in my kit stash. I recall that the chassis details/steering details were always quite nice.

Good idea. My basement building area has a tile floor. Drop something and it could wind up on the moon. Now I build at my dining room table. Even those parts can bounce off my foot and be lost forever.

He looks pretty good all things considered. I've been back from the dead myself.

Potato salad is more traditional among modelers. I've known guys to use macaroni salad containers with good results.

It is tedious work, I'm lucky than a MCG PE set was available for my botched '66 Nova piece. I usually set a timer for like 10 minutes, work on opening grilles a little here and there.

I have done this and it works well. I often paint the transmissions (silver) late in the builds, so that happens after my wiring is done.

I soak them in warm soapy water, nothing else. Rinse, repeal, lol.

They came with the engine, source unknown. One guy in the club does slot cars and he sells the leftover parts.

I tried this on an AMT '66 Nova and it got so thin it broke.... I have opened a few using the knife blade.

Ivan LOVES this toy. The battery that lights up the ball is long dead. I added a 2nd ball that came from who knows where. I am unable to trim his nails, so he goes to town on this a few times a day. My local pet store carries the refills.

I used some obscure resin firewall on my last '32 coupe build. It was rolled and pleated, I painted it white. I now pretty much make my own if I have to recess it a bit.

This one is worth a watch, Sisu. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisu_(film) It is based in Finland, set in late in WWII. The Nazis are leaving Finland, burning everything in their retreat. They run up against a gold prospector who is quite the warrior in his own right. A tad on the bloody side, but very well done. Mainly Finnish actors, nobody that I recognized.

I have one started, really only 1 way to basically build it. I took my time making supports to mount the front and rear bumpers. The front bumper registry in the nose is not so hot. I opened the trunk too. Just another stalled project....

There will always be a good market for the '29-'34 Fords. It would be nice to see a new-tool '36 as well. Everyone has done the '40 Ford. I was talking with the Revell reps at the NNL East when they had test shots of their '49 Mercury. I said, all well and good, but you guys screwed the pooch on this one. They asked why. I told them they should have done a '51 Mercury, dare to be different. I don't think I made their day.

This is what I use mainly as glue for non-painted parts. I have around 5 CA glue types, like I said, I take care so they don't tip over. I have been using the Hobby Lobby CA glues, the caps stay cleaner than Zap-a-Gap does.

I use .020" brass wire on most of my radiator supports. I have also used stainless steel wire, tougher to bend. I use Detail Master fittings at the fire wall. The wire I just bend into a "V" shape at the radiator.

One of handsome Ivan.

Not available from what I can tell

More of Brie and Bleu. Mr. Beers is the older black cat ?‍⬛️.