bobss396

Nice work! I have one started myself. The engine is complete and the chassis and cage are painted, gloss black. I'll look at the PPP tires, maybe some Ron Coon wheels would be better than the kit ones. Most of the other parts are cleaned up and are in prime. I could go with a #3 Len Bohler car, leaning towards a Richie Evans tribute car too.The instructions are vague regarding the rear panel fits, maybe I will pick up an Ol Blue kit. A couple of things I don't like, the glass is too thick and so is the side screen. I'll look at making up something else.

I'll have to look at references before losing the vent windows. This us a pre 1973 Era build.

I sanded all the fabric off it. So it is bare. Using a 3D printed racing seat.

I expect to have to open up the floor a bit, once I get the 250, with the 4 speed, I'll have a better idea. So the pan and firewall will stay off for now. I have it posted in the NASCAR WIP forum.

This 1st attempt using my phone. I started on a 1951 Chevy figure 8 stock car recently. I had an old partially built kit I bought years ago. So far I have most of it roughed out, cage and chassis are done, tires and wheels picked out. Seat and fuel cell are Ron Coon items. I'm trying to replicate a type of car that ran locally around 1970.

I have considered it. I would think of laying a piece of brass rod hidden under the door openings.

I have a serious Jones to build that brown LTD...

I will try to take pictures later on, I have to dig out my good camera or try posting from my phone. I am a little on the urban-amish side at times... So far the build is on day 4 and I have a lot done. I'm waiting for the 3D 250, it may impact the floor pan, my biggest fear. I have lots of it pinned to make assembly easy, put angled plastic stock on the interior sides to hole it better for final assembly. I have a built up Fleetline I need to look at for some questions I have on the front end assembly. I'm sort of following what I recall from the early figure-8 days at the local tracks. I have seen some videos from around 1970 (world championship) that are great reference. The RF safety hubs came along at a later date. Most F8 cars were close to stock before 1975, like any other class they evolved.

I started one on Sunday, the hardtop version I got years ago partially built. I had to rip the rear out, broke one leaf spring, an easy fix. It is going back in with 3/64" brass rod. I'm going to pin the entire front end in a similar fashion. I was considering another 6 engine, the AMT '60 Chevy truck has an excellent one. But no speed equipment. My car will be a figure-8 stock car. I ran across a nice 250 from VCG resins, they also make a stock version. The body will be modified, no corrections will be made outside of thinning the window openings. On the hardtop kit, the rear and front glass are separate pieces.

A completely new-tool '63 and '64 would be cool. I'd like to see a '63 box-top roof version.

Keeping that glass nice and clean is a model in itself. Well done.

Nice days of decals... I'd be looking to commit hari-kari at the day 2 point.... nicely done!

I have heard about holding the primed model up to a mirror with a strong light behind it to reveal flaws. I tried it once in a bathroom setting... it does work. I usually take my glasses off and look it over carefully with a good coat of primer on it.

I would attempt to make a mirror-image replica from styrene using the good side as reference. Over size, then whack the bad one off at a 45 degree angle, cut the new piece to fit. I would make the inner structure first so that the glass has a nest to fall into.

I started using Mr, Hobby primers a few months ago, good stuff but $9.99 a can. Duplicolor, you cannot miss with that. I have also used some SEM and Transtar auto body primers with lacquers.

I will have to dig it out, I put all my stalled... I mean in process work away for my holiday house cleaning. The ribbon has 2 textures depending on which side is up.

At shows, whoever I go with I tell them, do NOT let me buy any resin bodies. I have made rare exceptions in the case of something Norm Veber has. I did my recent '64 Fairlane stock car with a Big Donkey body... should have used a kit body, would have saved me 90% of the effort.

That is a great red and I like the wheels. I find that I have to test fit everything on a model. I like to "pin" the body to the chassis, front and back, so it goes together the same time all the time. I make up hidden tabs to secure the bumpers if need be. Glass and dash fits... can give us fits. I have been taking about 1/16" from each chassis side before I do anything. I also sand some from behind the rocker panels so it fits together will less stress. I put a radius where it won't show, less chance of scraping the paint. Too many models, the body curves in at the bottom for some reason, quite excessively.

Kit decals or after market? It really looks nice, I try to avoid handling very large sections of decals. It either makes or breaks a build.

The '57 grillles always looked great on the '60.

I had the '68 kit with the trailer, IIRC I never even painted either of them. MPC had some awesome kits back then.

Nice work, everything has to be lined up perfectly or else it looks bad. One other I saw that came out well, the seats and interior panels were gutted. The pleated parts were installed in those "windows".

That type of site is what we need. I like one-stop shopping. There was a great site, Scale Dreams where I could get almost anything I wanted.

I like the nose-up look myself. Some kits have fairly well nailed it, like the AMT '37 Chevy and the Revell Willys kits. Even the good old AMT '55 Nomad kit does it for me.

I have a bunch of flat ribbon (saved from gifts) I use for seat belts and floor mats. For the mats, if I put a crease in them, they will lay flat. I have some material in a pale yellow, I color it with a sharpie.