bobss396

I haven't used an enamel brush paint in 20+ years. I have been using the Tamiya X series acrylic paints exclusively.

VCG Resins has some Carters, a new item.

Being largely flat stock, those would be a cinch to 3D print or machine from plastic or thin aluminum stock.

Not sure if they still make it, Sinus Buster was a great product. Sort of like snorting Drano, but almost instant relief. I have Flonase, use it when I need it, also some things like Sinex. I fried some of my nasal membranes with peppermint oil a couple of years back. My sense of smell is returning, but I can really only smell really good or really BAD things.

... or Visine....

I see guys in my club do this now and then. This is something I learned by age 11, using some of my dad's touch up paints from the garage. I used to speak up, but the cheap-paint crew poo-pooed my words of wisdom. Now I just sit back and enjoy the show.

I have yet to see any paper designs for model kits. I would imagine it was all done via paper and pencil 40-60 years ago. I worked almost 40 years in manufacturing, lots in fab parts. From paper to CAD/CAM. We kept "methods masters" on everything, until people got too lazy and storage space was a concern. I did maintain electronic history on a departmental hard drive.in later years. Each folder had a history on the part, revision status, tooling, NC programs, etc. I would imagine that the model makers did the same thing. I doubt any of that followed it over to China. Hence we have seen all new tooling on the recently Time Machine Chevelle. All CAD/CAM without a doubt.

I have a few of the Novas around, there was a '76-ish one as well, I have some of those too.

Super cool in 1/8th scale... tough to try that in a smaller scale with a good level of detail.

Very nice. I want to do one too, yours looks look lowered. This car was titled as the car that killed the gasser and ushered in the funny car era.

The radiator support is complete. Most other parts are in prime. I can't get too far without the 3D printed engine, it may impact the floor pan. I also ordered a Chevy 3 speed, as it may be smaller.

Some hardware stores have the K&S line of metals, hobby shops too. Worst case, eBay to the rescue. I have even used floral wire in a pinch.

The driver side glass is made. I covered it with tape so I could mark on it. The other side will be using screen stock.

This is it right now, folded the table cloth back half way.

This was my table on Thanksgiving. Totally cleared off.

That is perfect, captured the look. By 1962 there a few that old. Other tracks ran them earlier than that.

I almost came up to Seekonk in 1982 to race, the owner Venditti (?) was going to give us tow money, but we had tow vehicle issues. My street stock cars, I could push it myself in the pits going left, it took 5 guys to push it right. Our home track now allows 8 cylinders, this came about after visiting racers had them but got a weight handicap.

You are correct. This class has roots in 1962. The early cars were very rudimentary. Some were minimally gutted. The era of the body-off build wasn't wide spread. New cars even evolved as the season went on. Fenders were cut more, etc. I chopped the vent windows out. I made inside frames. I can go with 2 pieces of glass or 1 glass, 1 screen.

A few of Ivan from when he was a kitten to about a year old. He is now 7, still the silkiest cat I have ever had. The last has Ms. Chloe Cat in it (no longer with us). Ivan is sitting on HER stool...

I have a funny resin Cadillac body tale from my club, maybe 15 years ago. One guy in the club, no longer with us, was working on a '49 Caddy resin custom for about 8 months. Every meeting he brought it in to show progress. Fast forward to our annual show, he brings the finished Cadillac. Another guy in the club also brings a resin-body Caddy custom. It beat the 8-month project in the customs class. I had never seen the 2nd car prior to the show and I asked the builder about it. He just shrugs and says he built it in 3 weeks and had it done just before the show.

NASCAR Mystery Motor article: https://over-drive-magazine.com/2022/08/19/1963-chevrolet-mystery-motor/ It caused quite the stir for the '63 NASCAR season too,

Something like .047" brass wire would do it, maybe something like .016" or .032" brass strip x 1/8" or 3/16" wide. If you could find it in that width. I did the front fender reinforcement thing on a stock car body. I used a piece of .010" aluminum (chimney step flashing), bonded it with CA glue and it worked. Maybe that would also work in your case.

I have a stock car, another stalled project..., with a similar decal problem. The paint is Duplicolor white, polished out, no clear. I used JnJ decals and some Polar Lights decals, some of them fall off quite easily. I have to look at what I used to polish it, Meguiars Show Car Glaze. If it has silicon in it, that could be MY issue.

I also do the tape thing, good old hardware store masking tape is probably the best. I used some vinyl tape years ago on some resin wheels. I took them apart after at least 10 years and the adhesive from the tape reacted with the resin, it was a gooey mess. I could save the wheels. My brother had some bigger tires on a wrecker project, same issue. I gave him part of a pool (foam) noodle to try. The noodle ID was small enough, all he had to do was cut it enough to fit inside the tire. It worked quite well.

I use only lacquer thinner too. I use a small jar for it, chuck it after it gets too murky. I have a bunch of good Mack brushes and the rest are general use sable so they hold up over the years.