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Everything posted by bobss396
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Good idea. My basement building area has a tile floor. Drop something and it could wind up on the moon. Now I build at my dining room table. Even those parts can bounce off my foot and be lost forever.
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He looks pretty good all things considered. I've been back from the dead myself.
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It is tedious work, I'm lucky than a MCG PE set was available for my botched '66 Nova piece. I usually set a timer for like 10 minutes, work on opening grilles a little here and there.
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How do you hold your engine for wiring?
bobss396 replied to Lunajammer's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I have done this and it works well. I often paint the transmissions (silver) late in the builds, so that happens after my wiring is done. -
What Do I Need For Prepping 3D Parts?
bobss396 replied to oldcarfan's topic in Car Aftermarket / Resin / 3D Printed
I soak them in warm soapy water, nothing else. Rinse, repeal, lol. -
They came with the engine, source unknown. One guy in the club does slot cars and he sells the leftover parts.
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I tried this on an AMT '66 Nova and it got so thin it broke.... I have opened a few using the knife blade.
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Ivan LOVES this toy. The battery that lights up the ball is long dead. I added a 2nd ball that came from who knows where. I am unable to trim his nails, so he goes to town on this a few times a day. My local pet store carries the refills.
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I used some obscure resin firewall on my last '32 coupe build. It was rolled and pleated, I painted it white. I now pretty much make my own if I have to recess it a bit.
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This one is worth a watch, Sisu. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sisu_(film) It is based in Finland, set in late in WWII. The Nazis are leaving Finland, burning everything in their retreat. They run up against a gold prospector who is quite the warrior in his own right. A tad on the bloody side, but very well done. Mainly Finnish actors, nobody that I recognized.
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I have one started, really only 1 way to basically build it. I took my time making supports to mount the front and rear bumpers. The front bumper registry in the nose is not so hot. I opened the trunk too. Just another stalled project....
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There will always be a good market for the '29-'34 Fords. It would be nice to see a new-tool '36 as well. Everyone has done the '40 Ford. I was talking with the Revell reps at the NNL East when they had test shots of their '49 Mercury. I said, all well and good, but you guys screwed the pooch on this one. They asked why. I told them they should have done a '51 Mercury, dare to be different. I don't think I made their day.
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I use .020" brass wire on most of my radiator supports. I have also used stainless steel wire, tougher to bend. I use Detail Master fittings at the fire wall. The wire I just bend into a "V" shape at the radiator.
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When in doubt, crack open a '40... well done.
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I super glue a plastic plate to the bottom of the bottle of anything I don't want to spill. I once spilled a can of zip kicker on the dining room table, it ate the plastic Xmas table cloth and I got some on a built chassis. I keep all my CA glues in an old potato salad container so they can't fall over.
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I'm helping someone with a 5.3 LS swap Miata. We took the stock rear and gas tank out of it a few weeks back.
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Friendly loveable Squirrels..
bobss396 replied to A modeler named mike's topic in The Off-Topic Lounge
I had 5 of them, now all I see is 3. Names are Tippy (ears are mostly white), Red (lots of red on the underside) and Dorian (looks like a primered model car body). The one I called Shade is gone. This one had a long tail that acted as an umbrella on rainy days. -
Those are brass brads I picked up either at a hardware store or a crafts store. I have been using them for around 15 years. The outer diameter is around ,020" and the heads are fairly small.
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My last '32 coupe I used .032" brass wire to mount the headlights on. Real simple and strong. Here's a couple of shots from a show a few years ago.