bobss396

Extra points given for tackling a JF resin body. I'm digging this one.

eBay to the rescue: I cannot vouch for how good they are or aren't. This is otherwise a good seller I have used in the past. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401578856848?itmmeta=01HQX09HRG0ZT75RD1PBF836W9&hash=item5d7ff71190:g:48IAAOSwq5FfX2b~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LZa5UOJeU2OdTxsU%2Bzw8CGmG0xocs%2B9aOLHwyKAf44Vc0AmsI%2Fm%2FZZeY3pfBe9cl%2FMbAhCEoxHLx91Tn6hwkfepBPijIpFBiYxFEvL4mPvcHPNRgO0A3gBQqwEvg3PdeZ1ZlEAZTu8J19lmc8m6XJcFUh%2BN8G2dZXOS168xAvtaQTwy2Lf5FZmDSff3rfrS2z8oue7lf2st6yG02l7D1zs3fnrzOuQHKhMsibW1k55UmhbTB3nJbIzCH8CA9sMYxXwWCam6NTQMAuwHKAfQ2LwAhgAeU1iOz4vlOUoqDLzN|tkp%3ABk9SR6icpqC_Yw

The AMT '60 Chevy truck kit has a real nice 6 in it....

I had thought about that, then I have to lift the whole thing straight up. Then get it down straight down again. The lid as it exists takes a little fiddling to get it back on. The surround is not 100% round. I did better with my aluminum one. I'll see if I have some 8" flashing around. Back when I worked and we has a sheetmetal shop, I would have had someone make me a surround from .040" or .062" aluminum with a door in the side. Those guys could make anything.

Like an idiot, I bought a resin '64 Fairlane stock car body at a show... a weak moment. I would have been much better off using the kit body I had around. Man did that require a ton of sanding on the inside to make it workable. The new thinner white resins are the way to go. Mold design is also a key part to making them thin.

Looking good, nicely done. The story with the winning car, he wrecked the main car and the backup car too. What to do? Across the street from the track is the Volusia County Mall, they always have show cars inside the mall on display for Speed Week. The team grabs the Pontiac, goes back to the garage and combines all 3 cars into what was the winning car that year.

I have some old resin bodies and parts, I keep the bodies in the boxes they come in. Most are tan-ish in color. Still, after 20+ years they reek of fuel oil when I sand them. IIRC, we have lost a resin caster or more due to resin processing toxicity and one was very sick for a while. The guys that use the thin-cast white resin seem to be doing a lot better health-wise.

I have most in my basement boiler room on salvaged metal and cheap plastic shelving. One shelf unit, all stock cars separated into dirt and pavement. On another wall, the bulk of my stash lives there. Separated into rods (1930 to 1940), Pro Street, GM muscle cars, 1950's, 1960's and 1970's kits. Trucks are separate. In a finished area in a closet are about 120 boxed up kits I take to sell at shows.

A front loader, might be a good idea. My surround that is plastic is deforming a little. I may have to go with some chimney flashing. I have a 10" roll here, I would have to go 8" or 6" when I replace it. The 10" depth is hard to reach down and place something with wet paint on it.

FWIW, I have been using Duplicolor chrome paint, definitely better than looking at kit chrome with mold flash. I just did some bumpers for a Mustang AWB I have going.

Pro Street is neat, very well done. I have plans on doing a '55 Chevy once I finish the other 22 stalled projects I got going...

It is lonely work.. somebody got to do it....?

I worked with a guy that had a dropped VW of some sort with the negative camber. He wore tires out in record time. When I was doing alignments, cars with excess negative camber were impossible to get on the rack we had. I guess alignments are not important to them.

UV JB Weld... whatta game changer. I like the fact that you get a fighting chance to align parts. My experience with zip kickers... ask my vinyl table cloth how that worked out.

I've known Norm for over 20 years, he used to come out to the LIARS show but hasn't been out for a while. I would place orders to pick up at shows he attends, a very easy guy to deal with and his wife is a doll. Like us, he's not getting any younger and I appreciate what he does for the hobby.

I saw this on the HAMB... got a 40 of OE800 to test-fit?

1/2" wire you may want to try .020" wire wrap wire. It can vary in size. I got some on eBay that is TOO big coming in at .037"... I have already given some away. Real wire wrap wire, one spec is MIL -W-81822, this is the only way I will order wire going forward. Here is a handy chart, midway down the page. I use mainly the A30 gauge that measures .0185-.0205". https://pdf4pro.com/view/mil-w-81822-wire-cabletool-net-414d4.html

IMO, one of my top-10 best looking cars of all time. Love the color and the foil work. I built one as a kid, that kit had the NASCAR options in it. I brush painted it with Testors 123 purple.

Outstanding, color me floored. I have always thought that was one of the best looking cars of all time, you nailed it. I used to drive one now and then when I was fixing cars, they handled like slot cars.

Nice, I'll have to watch for this kit. I used a Mopar touch up Plum Crazy last year, I also have the Extreme Lacquer purple I have to try on something.

One of the worst kits of all time. I struggled with one as a kid (red truck on boxart), then the blue boxart one around 1994. That one almost got completed. One guy in my club bought a glue-bomb of one for 50¢ at a garage sale... missing parts. He is hell bent on building it. I told him I would GIVE him an AMT '53 truck kit.

I like it, sort of like the trans-kits to turn T-Birds into '49 Fords.

We have a local tool vendor that attends shows. I always stop by his display, maybe this is the same guy you mentioned.

I have been using Hobby Lobby CA glues, man do they set up fast, like zero time to position aluminum to plastic, an instant bond with aluminum to aluminum. The Loctite gel, gives me more time. Like I have said, I pin almost anything that needs to be strong. I use plastic rod for low-strength, brass and stainless steel and even aluminum tubing for high-strength. In the past I have used pieces of paper clips. Floral wire is real cheap too. I should look into UV cements. We used them at work on acrylic boxes (for environmental testing) and that set up real fast.

I use as little filler as possible. A trip into the dehydrator dries it fast, no shrinkage after that. I give it like 20 minutes and then I sand it. I just did a hood on a stock car build that needed a little help.