slotbaker

Nice re-build, it looks magic. $375+.. That'll be a good price.

Phil, thanks, that would be good. Sounds like a fun event. Hope you shhare some piccies somwhere. I didn't know that Monogram did a Gurney 63 Galaxie. I know of the white 63 Fred Lorenzen #28, red 65 Gurney #121. Looking good Steve. Nice collection of Dan's cars. I think the #2067 is listed as Guards Red, and I was just thinking that they may have just got a factory Wimbledon white then squirt the red on the roof. I was hoping that the roof was a metalic red, and thinking of Tamiya TS-18 Metallic Rec (but looks a bit light) over the Tamiya TS-26 Pure White. So still trying to get my head around which ones are best.

I'm collecting info to put Dan's 60's Galaxies together, and trying to identify the right colors for the 66 #121 Harvest Motors Riverside winner. At this stage, I'm thinking it's Guards Red over Wimbledon white. I first thought it might be Rangoon Red, but not sure. Can anyone confirm or correct me on this? TIA

Nice... what scale are they?

For anyone interested in Tampo (Tampon) printing, it works like this; An image of the print is etched into a cliche (flat steel or plastic plate) that is mounted in the press. The etch is about 0.1mm deep. Steel cliches for high volume. A squeegie pushes ink back and forth once accross the cliche, leaving the etched image full of ink. Better describe what the tampon is before the next step. It is a soft and very pliable rubber shape that is held in the top part of the press above the cliche. The shape and size depends on the size of the image, and the shape of the article being printed. To give you an idea of what it feels like. Have you ever been lying on your back, and had a naked female partner leaning over you? Well, you would have experienced 2 tampons. The tampons are designed to be very pliable to be able to print onto curved surfaces. Anyway, the press lowers the tampon down onto the cliche, and the surface tension on the air side of the ink is greater than that of the cliche, and the ink 'sticks' to the tampon. The press raises the tampon taking the ink, and an automated slide moves the work piece in over the cliche. The press lowers the tampon onto the work piece and the surface tension on the air side of the ink is greater which now makes the ink stay on the job. The ink used on better quality models would be a 2 pack low temp bake to get the best adhesion. Lower quality prints would be air dry. All of this gives one colour. The process takes about 2 to 4 seconds. For every colour, a different cliche is required, and a progressive printing line would be used. The real cleaver part of this process is generating an image in the flat cliche that ends up correctly proportioned on a curved surface. Then add the complications of multi coloured images. Have a close look at a curved, multi-colour print to see how accurate the detail is, then think how the image would look if was flattened out. Pretty amazing stuff.

Love both of these cars. I've always been a keen Dan the Man fan collecting some of his race cars as slot cars (both 1/32 & 1/24), and now I'm collecting info in an attempt to build some 1/24 cars that are not readily available. This is one I did about 10 years ago. Please go easy on me. It's not all that accurate as I was returning to slot cars, and in slot car mode as opposed to model building mode. Things have changed now, and I'm more interested in the model building side, so I'm going to re-do this one to be more faithful to the real thing. Hope it's OK to post this here, as it seemed appropriate. Can anyone point me to good links (or share photo's) of Dan's Galaxies? I found this one for 63 Galaxie chassie #C3HM10004, and looking for more of the same. TIA.

Ooooh, that looks good. I've got one as well at about 15th in line of things to do. Looking forward to seeing both of yours.

$60 is higher than the Scalextric, SCX, Carrera, 1/32 scale cars, but the AMT are 1/25 scale, so that puts them into competition with Carrera 24, TSRF, Scaleauto, etc. They may not have the same detail as the Carrera, or the performance of the TSRF, but they can be had for around $53 retail, so they are not bad in comparison.

Slot Drag Racing is a bit less popular, and much more specialised, with most racers running vacuum formed bodies. But there are a few out there kit bashing kits and resins for the strip. Parma make drag chassis that can be used under either vac form, or kits.Parma Edge To this you can bolt a wide range of motors, gears, wheels/tires etc. Motors can be had for around $10~15, to many hundreds if you want to peel the paint of your model. There are a few manufacturers of great looking wheels/tire combos, and Protrack have a good selection; Slot Car City This link is to just one of many retail outlets. As Jairus mentioned, there are forums that cover this as well, so take a look at some of the topics on; SlotForum SlotBlog 1 SlotBlog 2

Along with Chris, Jairus is one of the best slot car builders anywhere, and here is just one of many slot car builds. Chris and Jairus team up to build museum quality slot car models. Sorry for the drift Justin, and yes, 1/24 or 1/25 scale slot cars are popular. Probably not as popular as the booming 1/32 scale market at the moment, but the larger 1/25 scale is more the traditional scale from when many of us boomers were racing on commercial tracks back in the 60's hey day. There are plenty of places where you can get parts, including ebay. What sort of things are you interested in building?

LA's Totally Awesome

Very neat. Studes rock.

Very well done. It looks great.

Just curious, what is the "USEFULL plastic MODELERS TOOL" mentioned on the box?

That's true. The Rapid Prototype units gave a resolution of about 0.010", which meant that the material (wax in those days) was laid down in an X/Y plane in layers of 0.010" thick. This resulted in the part having lots of small steps on the compound surfaces that required post op smoothing to achieve the final finish. Like most things, the more definition you want usually equates to more $s So, what ever resolution is specified for the machine relates to how fine the surface finish will be. The smaller the number, the better the surface finish, and the more $s you would expect to pay.

A couple for starters. Grandpa's Dragular another

3D Printing is latest technology for a process that has been around for many (about 25) years, and previously known in the trade as 'Rapid Prototyping' With the progress in technology and miniaturization of the process, it has been improved to the point where these personal units are now available, and just known as 'printers'. I agree that it is a misleading term, compared to the things that we currently know a the humble printer.

I'm with Bob, Agent G, Ed, Chuck, Tom, Al and Henry. To add to their suggestions of; 1939 Studebaker Coupe Express 1950~51 studebaker bullet nose (sedan) 1950's Studebaker pickup 1955 Studebaker 2 dr. coupe 1964~66 Studebaker Daytona (2 dr) I'd like to see; 1928 Studebaker President Roadster 1930's Studebaker Indy Racer 1963 Studebaker Champ Pickup/Stepside 1963 Studebaker Lark Cruiser Sedan 1964~5 Studebaker Cruiser Sedan Dream on....

I can only agree with everything that Jairus posted. There is no magic formula to answer "What do I need to build fast and working Slot Car" as there are so many variables with track length, long/short straights, tight twisty, or fast flowing tracks, motor choice, gearing, etc. Pretty much like real race cars. One set-up works well on a few tracks, but poorly on others. The lighter bodies that you mention are clear vacuum formed versions, and are available in propper scale and slammed/aero versions for better performance. The vac bods are available from the links that Jairus posted, plus a few specialist body makers. AMT was one of the many slot car kit manufacturers in the 60s heyday, and are releasing a few new slot car kits that may be ot interest to you. Have a look at this thread on SlotBlog. They would be a great start to get into slot car model building.

Thought I'd share some pics of some historic Australian Midgets built by Andrew H, who is passionate about these cars, and who owns Jack Brabham's first race car. They may not be of the picture perfect examples that are usually shown on here, but I think they are pretty interesting just the same. #5-Harold Barnes, Supercharged Jeep; #48-Andy McGavin, Eddiemyer Ford V8-60; #35blue-Bill Annabel, Ford A; #2-Johnny Peers, J.A.P. 8/80; #20-Sel Payne, Ford A; #35red-NZ Reece Discombe, Ford V8-60; #17-Bob Playfair, Ford V8-60; #4-Jack Brabham, WW2 Japanese Scout Car V-twin; #65-USA Perry Grimm, Eddiemyer Ford V8-60; #3-Col James, Ward V-Twin; #55-Alf Beasley, Edelbrock Ford V8-60; #1orange-Stud Beasley, Edelbrock V8-60; #28-Jack Brabham, J.A.P. 8/80; #1blue-Ray Revell, Revell Offenhauser; #99-NZ Frank Brewer, Eddiemyer Ford V8-60; #30-Jack Brabham, Jenning Spec Harley; #1black-Alan Marshall, Eddie Dark J.A.P 1100; #26-Alan Marshall, Marshall Spec Jeep. Jack Brabham's 3 midgets. #28 is his first race car. There are a few more pics here here.

Good site. Thanks for posting. It always astounded me that such a rare car would be sacrificed in such a way. I didn't think too much of the concept car, but it is a shame that it has been lost. Makes a good story though.

Very nice. It's great to see shots of the running gear. How come only a few people show off their chassis? :? Should be more of it.

Just found this thread. :shock: Nice one. Lots of good info here, thanks for sharing.

Interesting thread here guys. Hope you don't mind if I add a query. I'm just starting out with this as well, so I've got a lot to learn. What difference does the compressor make? :? I plan on using a small industrial job that has plenty of pressure and volume, but regulating it down to required pressure plus oil and water trap. I've read where some people use converted fridge compressors, so there must be quite a wide range of compressors that can be used for airbrushing.