Daddy Mack

I've restored some clear styrene lids for vintage Gillette barn door razors with a 3" cotton buffing wheel in a low rpm electric drill motor and white polishing rouge. The white rouge is the softest, least aggressive rouge for finish polishing of metals. I've gotten some truly amazing results. Didn't have to Future them, wax them, or anything else besides washing them with soap and water when done. Let the buffer do it's job without pressing on the workpiece. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6-Pc-3-Full-Sewn-Polishing-Buffing-Wheels-with-1-4-Arbor-1-Metal-Mandrel/333135306411

The 1973 GM A/G body frame was an all new design, different than 1972 and before. New control arms, spindles, steering linkage, crossmember. ALL the 1973-77 A/G bodies used the same back windows and the same roof panels. The C-pillar opera windows are all the same glass. The only difference is the size/shape of the opening in the C-pillar and the C-pillar is part of the quarter panel stamping. The roof-to-quarter panel seam is at the top of the C-pillar. I do know what i'm talking about. All i have ever owned is RWD GM products, over 125 of them, including probably a dozen 1973-77 A and G body cars, including several 1975-76 Laguna S-3s. In fact there are 2 1973-77 A bodies on the ranch here, right now

They are the same roof and same back window. Same windshield. Same door windows. Same frame, same floor pans, same firewall etc, etc, etc. In fact, the frame ended up under the downsized 1977 GM B & C-bodies. That 1973-1977 A/G-body frame was used all the way through 1996 on the Buick Roadmaster, Caprice, 94-96 Impala SS and Fleetwood Brougham and all the RWD LeSabres, Electras, 88s and 98s, Catalinas, Bonnevilles etc that came in between 1977 and 1996.

Now, that is some real talent, Michelle! And you're a most excellent photographer !

Now, that is the funniest thing i have seen all week! I need to know: What predatory tactics is the seller using to strongarm the buyer into buying? i don't want to become the next 'victim'

Extraordinarily classy turnout for the gent.

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd it's an exact match for the 1961 Bonneville uptop. Thank You Sir!

It's got the same general shape as a picture of an AMT 1961 Galaxie top, but it's too short.

The 1965 Seaton's Shaker 396 Chevelle was a 1964 with a 1965 front clip swapped on. The 1965 Chevelle Strip Blazer II (Malcolm Durham) was a regular Malibu SS with an injected 396, altered WB, etc. Decals readily available for either. pics easily Googled using the year, model, car name.

Seems like the Chitwood car and the Turbonique car were one and the same.

I have that MM Dark Bronze paint for a certain project and one of the factory-allowed interior choices was burnt orange. The closet match i found was Rustoleum Matte Harvest Orange. Maybe a dark orange will work for you?

What are the measurements on the Pie slicks?

Thanks, Men!

For the fella lucky enough to own a 1959 Dodge with the interior, is this what your instrument panel and steering wheel looks like?

That's gonna break a LOT of hearts, for sure.

Understated as it should be for a regional race car. Nice Job!

There are several ways to skin the cat but, similar to Ace-Garageguy, my favorite method is to force a single-edge razor blade through the glue joint. Rocking the blade helps with difficult joints. Disclaimer: don't try this at home unless you have strong fingers because if the blade bends to one side it will likely break and then warm, red liquid will be all over your workpiece. As with Ace, sometimes i get the blade into position and whack it with something. My weapon of choice is a light hammer with nylon head inserts. This technique usually reserved for very old and hard joints. The downside being that there's usually nothing to steer the blade unless you were born with 3 hands .

I wonder if: once a silver nitrate 'primer' is applied that nickel could be electro-deposited onto the conductive silver base? Things like this seem to work better once electricity gets involved. I'll be watching to see how things turn out!

Dang! That was fast! Thank You!

This object has lived in a baggie for so long i can't remember if it belongs to a kit here or did it arrive in a box of eBay junk. It's apparent on the opposite side that it is molded in red plastic. I have a guess but don't want to taint anyone's memory A positive I.D. would be most appreciated!

Could you achieve the desired results by plating with silver nitrate?

Yes. A real spray booth is fully enclosed with a fan that removes interior air out a duct and filters in the booth wall that clean the incoming air. If you are using something that is less than fully enclosed, it's not a booth.

Upside down, YES! Either that or immediately move the painted item to a space where this is little air circulation. I have a spare room that qualifies. I carry it upside down until it gets there. My new paint space is a camping tent. No bugs, no sunshine, no other junk arriving with the breeze. They are cheap at yard sales.

As a rule, GM cars from the mid 1960s-up have pretty good paint coverage underneath. When the paint shop guys finished their primary job they blew paint under the body before the next body came into the booth. Not all of the underbody paint was thick enough to level out and get real glossy in the baking tunnel but much of it did.

About 10 years ago i visited a number of yard sales in a mobile home park and picked up a box of retired jeweler's tools for $25. Then picked out some German and Swiss specialty pliers, these small round files and these tiny rotary files. The wood-handled files are: Flat, Round, Triangle and Half-Round. These are the smallest files i've ever seen, smaller than your typical jeweler's files. There are no manufacturer's markings - they may be on the shanks inside the handles. The rotary files: never seen anything that small before, either. Oh, after i took what i wanted i sold the rest on eBay for $70 before fees The torch tip cleaners? I use them to clean cutting torch tips. The skinny ones bend so easy. Grrrrrrrrrr!