tom q vaxy

that's a fantastic looking speedometer. just came across this: http://wargameterrain.blogspot.com/2018/12/mayku-new-formbox-tabletop-vacuum.html most vacuum forming machines I've seen are more limited in size, so a bigger platform might allow body panels to be duplicated.

if the transfers are not fairly new, they tend to break apart (each letter). also, direct application to a compound surface might be a real challenge. the decal sounds like a better option.

my experience with Vallejo paints points toward adhesion. it's not hot enough to bite into the styrene surface by itself, so a primer gets over that hurdle. i'm not a big fan of V primer, but Tamiya is a good first coat. then do whatever pleases you. next 10 replies will tell you i'm wrong on all counts.

English is not my first language so I do what I can

I ended up using 3M transfer tape. (had a roll in the drawer & saved me a trip to get something dedicated). https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Adhesive-Transfer-Tape-9473PC/?N=5002385+3293240976&rt=rud

Surface Mold-made and machine-made watercolor papers come in three surfaces: rough, hot-pressed (HP), and cold-pressed (CP or NOT, as in "not hot-pressed"). Cold-pressed watercolor paper has a slightly textured surface, somewhere in between rough and hot-pressed paper. It is the paper used most often by watercolor artists because it is good for both large areas of wash, as well as fine detail. from here: https://www.thoughtco.com/how-to-choose-a-watercolor-paper-2573985 I was just what I had on hand.

any suggestion on the correct adhesive? i'm leaning to double-side carpet tape.

the whole website seems a bit wonky to me. anyone have good experience?

great job; fun stuff!

i'm thinking this. Mr Phelps & the Team already proved everything

thank you

I think it's probably too advanced for me anyway.

would the Revell Thames panel truck get into this mix, too?

it's free to join! I find large scale models' details help me understand mechanical workings better. usually because large scalers are almost compelled to include things which smaller scales can pass muster without. 1:1 sites worthy of mention for your subject: https://www.modelt.org/ https://fordbarn.com/forum/

Jay's got one, too:

this may be helpful along the way: http://www.scalemotorcars.com/forum/classics-and-vintage/2592-article-1-8th-scale-model-racer-build-journal.html

I have 4" & 6" Starrett adjustable squares, but use this one as much or more: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Empire-6-in-True-Blue-Blade-Pocket-Combination-Square-E255/100192421 sorry it doesn't fit your requirement for low-profile, but for as square as I can build, it works fine.

a bit of inspiration link from another forum: http://www.marc-giai-miniet.com/page12.html

http://flavorwire.com/615277/jaw-dropping-bookends-feature-detailed-back-alley-dioramas