dodgefever

From what I've read, the Cummins became available as an option in '69. I also found this: http://www.olddodges.com/literature/lseries/69l3.JPG Note (l) at the bottom says "Air brakes mandatory with diesel engine".

Nice, I have similar plans for mine, if I ever get around to it.

Bumping a two year old thread (a) so I can find it and (b ) because I've finally found some time to do more on it. Engine is mostly complete and I've mounted the front wheels. Rather than narrow the axle, I ground down the hub mating surface on the inside of the wheels and took some material off the brake drums. I was toying with the idea of swapping in a DD V8 from another kit, but wasn't sure what to do with the air intake. I wanted to add an air intake stack and frame mounted air cleaner, but couldn't find any reference photos. How common was the front air intake?

No progress here, but hopefully I'll have time to get on it again this week.

Very impressive!

Looks to me like someone painted them, and none too well, either. I believe the Moving Violation kit is from the '70s, and the Hot Rod release was the last one before the MK reissue.

Got some primer on it. Firewall still needs lots of work.

I love how that sits, but if I can offer some constructive criticism, that engine needs to be set back so it's not in front of/over the axle, even if it means notching the windshield.

No major progress, but I'm creeping up on it. I've got the new cab almost blended in a roughed out the B pillars. It has M/T cheater slicks on the rear now; I'll probably stick with these.

Cadillac in the 5W, Studebaker in the roadster (4 bolts in the valve covers). The Buick is in a Model A, if we're being picky...

I dislike these newer ribbed wheels, but I'd still rather have them than the one piece Japanese style. How is having no inner bead detail an improvement?

Nice clean work! For future reference, if you want to be prototypicaly correct, the idler/tension pulley for the blower drive should go on the slack side of the belt i.e. the left side, when looking at the front of the engine (car engines rotate clockwise).

The weather has warmed up enough that I could spray some primer on the Ranchero. It wasn't as bad as it looked, so most of this filler will come off. I forgot to fill the old door lines, so I'll fix that on the next go round.

That's the best use for these things: turn it into something else. I had the coupe version and I remember my disappointment when I saw the body... i had the idea of using it for a comp coupe, but in the end I threw it away.

*Still* no I beam? Argh! I was all set to get a couple of these, but if it's another rehash of the tube axle & air bag setup, I'll pass.

I've started on the firewall and moved the bellhousing mounts back on the frame. Engine is a small block with a Hydro trans, I cut the front of the frame off because it'll get new straight rails.

That's cool. I prefer it without the stacks. Where are the wheels from? I could do with a set like that.

Two. The '57 only has a small block. The AMT and Revell '62 Chevys 409s are much better though.

Good start, which decals are you using? Landy's?

That's what I was wondering, though I thought they looked like Ford FE heads. The paint and finishing is excellent, but when the basics aren't quite right it takes something away...

Cool. This is what I'm building - a '57 150 gasser. It'll have a set-back injected small block, and new front rails with a beam axle.

The top is fitted now, but still needs a lot of work.

I've got the body assembled and rough cut the top, ready for fitting. This resin is quite brittle, so rather than thin it down under the windows, I'm going to open up the body and sink the top in. That'll give me more surface area for reinforcing it too.

I've got a '57 chevy gasser just started, if it's OK to join in?

Point taken, some things will react violently and/or produce toxic products when mixed with bleach, so yeah, best to avoid mixing it. I wouldn't suggest experimenting with anything else. The OP could always do it in stages: soak in IPA or similar to remove the clear coat, rinse thoroughly, then use the bleach.