dodgefever

I've found the front suspension needs some re-engineering to match the 1:1. The kit has the radius arms mounted outside, and parallel with, the frame rails. The real thing has the radius arms mounted under the frame rails and angled out to mount on the axle beams under the coil spring. The beams are also wrong; they should mount on brackets under the frame rails, not inside the crossmember and the driver's side isn't cranked like it is in the kit. It makes you wonder what they were looking at? Here's a photo for reference: ]

Good start, and much better without the whitewalls.

The trim was stainless, but the ribbed inserts on the rear quarters were aluminium.

Interesting build, thanks for pointing out the differences. I have both kits on the way, planning to combine parts to build my uncle's long gone Explorer - big block, 3 spd, two tone Grabber blue and white.

Looks that way, must be licensing BS. That would explain the change from 'Hemi' to 'Hot Rod' as well. Lame.

Not. That one is just as bad, and the one in the new tool '41 Willys isn't much better. The blowers in the '60s Revell kits and parts packs are much more authentic. There lies the source of our frustration: they nailed it 40+ years ago (same with the A firewall), there's no excuse for "good enough" now.

No, that's a Revell kit, completely different. You want the old AMT W925, Alaskan Hauler or T600.

That thing is an abomination. Whitewall slicks on mags, faux spindle mounts, header wrap, awful stance, tacky bodywork. Ugh. This is a gasser.

There's not much to the rear suspension on the 1:1 (I own one). The kit has a decent representation of the torsion beam and trailing arms, along with the coil-over struts. Those are the parts on the bottom of the upper sprue here:

Ford's Grabber Orange is similar.

I think your delay is more likely due to US Customs than anything else. I've sent a few things to the US recently (from the UK) and they've taken 3 - 5 weeks to arrive. According to the tracking info, they reach the US a day or two after posting, then they sit in Customs for weeks.

After some more digging, the body looks like it's a Daybrook. I found a few images of Gramm-Daybrook trailers with very similar bodies, and a Daybrook brochure with what looks like the same kind of underbody hoist.

Thanks for the replies. I'd ruled out those makes because I hadn't found any with the same body construction or hoist. The closest I found was a Galion, but still not identical.

Anyone able to put a manufacturer to this one? I've googled GarWood, Fruehauf and a few others, but found nothing matching. I'd like to build it, but need more to go on, mainly what kind of tipping gear it had... looks like probably twin underbody rams, but would be nice to know for sure.

  Wow, I like that. Are those old Revell parts pack wheels? I wish they'd reissue those.

Nice job! Are those wheels from another kit? I thought the ones in the Riv kit were much wider?

Into the block, in front of the manifold. Here's a bare block - see the distributor hole? http://image.moparmusclemagazine.com/f/mopar_car_history/mopp_1010_mopar_plymouth_rich_history_and_legacy/28655111/mopp_1010_02_o%2bplymouth_greatness%2b426_hemi_engine_block.jpg

Nice, but kind of spoiled by those clunky trunk hinges.

  I suspect he meant for Round2 to retool it in 1/25, not make your own. I'd buy one in 1/25, but 1/20 puts me off.

There was a feature on Big Al in an early '90s R&C. From memory, it had a homemade multi disc clutch and direct drive through a large diameter (~12 inches) torque tube into a flipped Pontiac rearend. The rear axle was mounted upside down to work with the reverse rotation of the Allison vs. an auto engine.

Tom Booth. The rolling chassis is on the cover of the August '66 Car Craft, not sure if it was featured in that issue though.

I added a single turbo to mine. There's not a lot of room; I had to thin down the interior tub to gain some clearance.

They are, much appreciated. They would be even better if Fotki didn't shrink everything to 500 pixels.

Nice job so far.

You might want to revisit your valve cover installation - not too late to fix it.