MarkJ

Cool , I have that one. Did you use the wheels and tires from it? I might just build it box stock and not worry about accuracy.

Super nice build, Has held up well over the years.

A quickie for you translates to a 3 month build for me. Another over the top awesome build. Where did the body come from?

Looking forward to the wip. Always nice to see how a model evolves from start to finish and any pitfalls or good tips that might occur.

Well , there you go. Your model looks exactly like the real car. The ref picture proves it. Sometimes when you make a model look too realistic, people think you made a mistake on the model and you have to end up defending yourself with real car photos. I've been through that before.

right in front of the of the union 76 decal it looks like there's a part of the blue paint missing. Maybe my eyes arent seeing it correctly.

Another fine build in the making.

Looks awesome as always. whats going on at the left ft bumper area?

Bruce is totally correct on this. definitely use the spoons

Travis, check your messages at the top of the page.

Just looking at the profile picture of that car, the roof line and fenders look more like a 37 then a 39. But if you say its a 39 then its a 39. I dont want to hijack your thread with a picture of one of my models so i will p.m. it to you. It turns out the kit I used was a Revell 37 ford street rod kit.

That Banjo car looks more like a 37 ford then a 39 or 40 Ford. I used a 37 kit for a Rex white 37 ford but i cant remember if it was AMT or Revell. you might want to see if you could find a 37 ford kit for this build. I bought a bunch of wide 5 wheels from a resin guy but I cant remember the name or if hes still in business. I wonder if P.P.P. makes any?

The 2+2 always looked more bulbous to me then the monte carlo version.

I'm not so worried about the wrinkling as much as the yellowing and the peeling off. A good coat of clear over a model at the end improves the whole look of any model, and keeps it looking good for many years into the future. No pun intended.

Great job, Dustin. Great detailing as usual.

Another home run, Tim. Best I've seen of this car.

Doc, you are not alone in your findings of bmf not sticking that well. I bought some directly from bmf and it works a little better then the old stuff but i can remember a couple of years back it was a much better product, stuck like crazy, but not anymore. Its a shame because when it worked right its much better then molowtow pen. I find that the molowtow works better shot from an airbrush.I will p.m. you a picture of chrome wheels shot from airbrush using molowtow

i stand corrected. instead of praising the decals I should have praised the decal installer. Great job getting those things down where they look fantastic.

Your usual source or are these powerslide? whatever, they look amazing.

Wow, Decals look Awesome.

The only thing about not clearing it is that the decals might lift and curl up in the future. Pun not intended. The floor finish will definitely not cause the decals to lift and curl up.

Paint looks superb.

Nice

Future will not hurt decals at all from my experience. And I have'nt found it to yellow them with age either.

Only the roofs are the same. I took a 2 door sedan roof off of a dodge and put it on a plymouth to make iggy katonas Plymouth race car that he campaigned for a while in 1965.