MarkJ

My mind is blown. Best build I have ever witnessed built from the beginning to end. Thank you, Charlie, for sharing it with all of us. You are going to need a truck to bring home the trophy this build should bring to you. Simply amazing work.

Gary, I'm guessing it's a Lexus because there is no badging on the sides except for the center cap in the wheels that looks like an L. Thats the thing about these standard sized SUV or crossovers. They all have just about the exact same profile appearance and taillights. The only thing that gives them away is the grille. I bet this is a fine ride indeed. I love my little CX-5 Mazda for trips and grocery getting but my fun car is my little Santa Cruz baby truck.

Thank you, Carl. I appreciated you stopping by for your support during the build. It was very helpful.

As soon as my airtime for the phone is not in jeopardy I will post some more wip pictures. Got the ford decal on the quarter panel finished and am now working on the 427 C.I. decal. Have to wait till the 22nd next week. apparently sending photos to my computer via my mail server takes up a lot of air time. And I was posting way too many pictures.

I'm going to take a rest on the wip . I'm using too much airtime sending photos with my phone. But you all get the jest of what's going on here. No bigee.

Thanks Jo, and Todd for keeping me from making a big mistake. I found ref pictures of the m-p product I had saved, and photos of the model showing I made a decal for it and its right next to the autolite on the Comet. I sure am glad you guys spoke up instead of waiting till the model was completed. That would have been a bummer. Weird how close the coffee -mate product is to the sealant and conditioner product in the way they look. It should be an easy fix. I will use the white label jar you supplied, Jo. It must have changed colors in 1967 because my ref picture shows that it is a white label and lid on the Andretti car.

Thanks, Jo. Let me do some more studying on that. It's not too late to change it. Makes more sense that it would be the m-p product.

Did some more work on the sponsor decal. This shows how when making the letters if you have a letter more than once in the word, you're doing you can just copy and paste the letter into the position instead of making a whole new letter. Saves a lot of time. I also just copy and pasted the big Bunnell word down to the small Bunnell word which saved enormous time. Won't be able to do that with the Florida word. Really don't like making decals. Very pain staking work. Also, you have to keep saving your work after just a few moves or the program just shuts down for some unknown reason and you lose all the work you did up to the last time you saved your work. That is truly a bummer when that happens.

I finished all the fender contingencies, so I completed the door 11 decal. Then I made a pattern, using the real car photo, to cut out the 1/4 panel wheel openings. They are just a little bigger and will have a lip on them. Then I started on the quarter panel sponsor that will be good for both sides of the car. I used a photo of the real car for a pattern to make the letters with the font tool in the program.

The front fender contingencies decal groups are finally finished. I will make one decal for each fender with all the images in them. Should fit just fine. It would take forever to apply each of these decals one at a time. I would go nuts. On to the numbers and sponsors and I can't forget the cubic inch decals.

Me either, Steve. My wife said if it looks like instant coffee maybe it was. I did a google search for instant coffee logos of 1967 and even though it's not coffee it showed up in an image search and I knew I had found it. Todd, this one is definitely coffee-mate. I guess they wanted to get some of that Daytona 500 exposure. Thanks, Daniel. There is nothing that special under the hood of this car, but it takes a lot of time to do the stuff under the hood and to do the chassis as well. Plus, a working hood is hard to get to shut flush which is a real pet peeve of mine when I see it on a model. Race cars have to have a flush hood.

Started working on the right-side front fender contingencies. Turned out that mystery decal on the right fender is Coffee-mate. Go figure. I just made a c4 decal out of the air. You can't read what's on the decal anyway when it's on the model because it's so small. That ad for Coffee-mate was published in 1967. You can barely make it out in that picture of the right front of the real car. 5th picture down.

Glad you are following, Gerald. That would be a great 66 to build. I have a 66 kit but I can't figure out who to build. I'm kind of leaning toward the Hutch 29 car.

Here are some more process views. Just need to find that c4 decal to have all I need for the left front fender. the jar decal is only on the right front fender. I decided to make a Kustom headers decal to put on this sheet to use on the Allison Monte Carlo. The ones I found on the oob sheet did not turn out well on the model.

The monitor on my old computer makes everything look wider and longer than it is supposed to be but when I transfer the image I make here to my other computer by way of thumb drive it comes out right. So, the car seems too long, and the decals seem too long when viewed on this monitor. I felt I had to reveal this. Sometimes you just have to work with what you got.

The images below are my rudimentary way of trying to show how I go about doing the decals. Basically, I take a photo of the car, make it 7.625 inches long and place it on an 8.5 x 11 inch base that is 400 pixels per inch. Anything created on this file will fit the model pretty much exactly the way it needs to. It will also give me a pattern for cutting out the wheel openings on the fenders and eventually the quarter panels. If you never worked with one of these programs it will leave you with a lot of questions. Oh, the front fender of the real car was made the same way the picture of the model was. I found a profile shot of the real car and did the same to it that I did to the model image.

Todd and anyone else who chooses to give it a go, here are 2 pictures of each contingency that are mysteries to me. The one next to the Wynns is more like a glass jar than a bottle like I had mentioned above. The colored images are not as clear as the black and white ones. the one on the door is under the Permatex. Once I have these two, I will have all the contingencies the car had at the time it had the biggest number on the car

Todd, I will try to take a very fuzzy picture of it and post it. I think it's going to be one of those very rare ones. There is also a bottle contingency on the right front fender that I will include if anyone can figure out what that one is too. Thanks for asking .

Are any of you guys familiar with a decal from 1967 that has c4 in the middle of it. Its red and black and the 4 is inside the c right in the middle of a round decal. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

First thing to do is take profile shots of the model body, left, right and top. These photos will be made into 7.625-inch-long pictures and place on an 8.5x11 inch file that is 400 pixels per inch in size. The decals are made on this file and will fit the model exactly as you see them as we go on.

Todd, that sounds very feasible. I'm just glad it worked out that way. I thought I was going to have to try to change the 66 grille into a 67. Now I won't have to.

Thanks, Trevor, Tim and Todd. Yes, it seems like they tried to sabotage Mario first with an underpowered engine and ill handling car that was too loose, but they finally gave him a good engine before the race and Mario figured out how to drive the loose car from his dirt track experience. Then at the last pit stop of the day they held Mario in the pits till Freddy could get a good lead on him, but Mario was still able to battle back for the win. I went to downtown Houston back in 1967 with my friend Chuck Clark and we saw the race live on closed circuit pay for view tv on a big screen in some venue that I forget now what it was called. It was in black and white. I'm not using a special chassis because I'm gluing the hood shut so no engine views and I won't be taking any photos of the chassis for the under-glass forum. I figure when you saw these cars at the race track you couldn't see the engine or the chassis so as long as you get the body correct for the tires and use the correct tires and wheels and get the stance right that's really all you need to do with these builds. I will try to get the cage, dash, and steering wheel and everything else in the interior close to correct. One good thing I noticed was that this car had the 66 Fairlane grille in it covered by a screen. It did have the 67 taillights though, but I can change the 66 taillights into 67 taillights with a little styrene work and chrome paint.

Thanks, Steve. I looked around for a sheet and never could find one at Mikes or just by a general search. Plus, it would be so old I wouldn't trust the quality of it, and it would probably be pretty pricey as well. I've already got started on it and it seems to be going okay so I will just go ahead and make my own.

Finally getting around to doing this one. I will again glue the hood shut to streamline everything. Nascar engines back then were not that uncommon to look at so a lot of time can be saved leaving the hood shut. I will take time in the wip doing a basic look at how I make my own decals. As you will see, it's really not that hard to do or expensive except for the decal paper. below is the kit I'm using.

Thank you, Chuck for the kind words. they are much appreciated. I'm working on the decals right now for the next build and wondering whether to show my process of how I do them in the wip or just wait till I'm actually building the model. Thanks again.