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Everything posted by MarkJ
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I was looking at the decal sheets and to my joy, I realized that most of the body will be covered up with the decals. in fact, the whole roof and side roof panels are completely decals. The only thing thats going to be seen much is the hood and parts of the door. so, I just need to really concentrate on making the paint extra smooth there.
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Looks awesome, Mack. Love all the extra added goodies you put in her. Cant wait to see the body being processed.
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Sanded the first coat down and then hit it with another coat using a more satin black. Product I used is in the last picture. I will lightly sand this trying, not to go through to the primer and then hit it with an acrylic gloss clear. I will then polish that and see what I have.
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The pictures below are body ready for primer, body primed and the last two are first coat of black paint.
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Got the left roof ridge done. Now I can move on to priming and painting the body. I'm going to tape inside the roof because I think that part needs to be white like most of the chassis is. If I don't I'm sure I will splash some body color paint on it somehow.
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David, I believe they are all partially clear now because they need a metal base to attach them to the car. Half of the 4 inch spoiler is obstructed by the 2 inch metal base, so the driver only has 2 inches worth of transparency. That digital rear view mirror really helps with their rear viewing capability's instead of strictly relying on their spotter.
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Randy, you did what I had to do. It would have been nice if they had cast both spoilers in clear. From what I understand the 4 inch spoiler is used everywhere except Daytona and Talladega . Maybe it's also being use at Atlanta. I'm not sure.
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Steve, the kit I have has a clear seven-inch spoiler and a body color 4-inch spoiler, so I had to convert my 4-inch spoiler to a clear one because I'm not building a Daytona or Talladega car.
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Mike, because of this new car, I have become a modern Nascar fan again, so I got the burning desire to build a couple of these. So far so good. I'm halfway there to getting one done. I have never done full panel decals before, but I know how good Powerslide decals are, so I'm hoping it turns out okay, because I don't have spare decals like I do when I make my own sheets. You should try one. It's a well-engineered kit, except I have questions about some of their choices for casting colors on some parts. Like I need a transparent 4-inch rear spoiler, but they cast it in white. So, I'm in the process of making my own. Thanks for checking in. What have you got going on?
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Instruction box 24. This is the last one dealing with the chassis, so I will be on to the body, and I won't be following the instruction boxes because they are pretty straight forward. There are 5 of them left and I don't need to bore anybody with them. I will just be showing the priming and painting and things I will have to add to the body, and then I will be finished after a last touch up of the chassis and then I will be done except for the decaling. Yay.
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Thanks for the info, guys. I wonder why it was left off the instructions. I will probably have to glue the body to chassis. Just thinking out loud.
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I have found two parts on the trees that are not in the instructions anywhere. One part is number 17 and it looks like a hose. The other part is number 72. It's a white part and it kind of looks like a milk bottle. If any of you guys know what they are for or just extras not used on the model let us know here please. Thanks.
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Instruction box 23. I'm not going to glue the air cleaner down so I can take pictures of what's left to see of the engine in my final photos of the build. I'm also not going to glue the window net on for the same reason. Both parts stay put just with gravity to take pictures of them. When they are in the case, I will just let gravity hold them on too. I'm also going to see if I can get away without gluing the body to the chassis. Looks like it might be a possibility
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Instruction box 21. Too bad they didn't mold the diamond shaped support in white. I will try to paint it without messing up everything around it.
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Steve, I just happened to be at that point now in the build and will surely take your advice on installing, before painting, and using the plastic welder. The kind I'm using has a little lag time on it of about a minute before it gets firm. I'm just too slow to use that stuff you and Clay Kemp use. I will keep Jay's parts in mind for my next build. They look like some very nice items.
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Wow, Mack. Thanks for those ref pics. They are just what I have been looking for. I have definitely made that a favorite for future builds.
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Thanks, David. The problem is finding a ref picture of the switch plate for the car I'm building has turned up with nothing. I guess these teams are very secretive about the way they do things that are allowed by Nascar.
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Thanks David and Mack. I learned something new today. So, are the switch plates the same or are they also left up to the individual teams? I promised myself this would be an oob build but there are three things on the body I have to fix so I don't know if I want to do a dash pad and a switch plate.
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Thanks, David for the feedback. It looks like the original dash pad was white also. That must have really been a glare inducer.
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Thanks, Mack and Steve for clearing that up for me. It would have been a lot easier if they had just molded it in black. I guess I need to go ahead and paint the piece between it and the rear firewall as well. Thanks again, and Mack, if you have any more ref pictures you would like to share, like the dash and switch plate, those would be great to see as well, and feel free to post them here.
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Thanks Steve. I have a question for you or anybody else reading this. The rear deck that goes over the fuel tank is molded in white, but the instructions say to paint it black. I wonder if anybody has a picture of the rear deck in an actual NextGen car. Finding ref pictures for these cars is very hard. Thanks, if anybody can post a picture here.