MarkJ

Thanks, Mike. The real car showed the rear fender humps in the back corners, but I'm not going to get ridiculous with it. Just a basic tub. I think I might just do printed shoulder harness hardware. In other words, it will be flat. Trying to figure out how not to spend 6 monthst on one build.

I'm going to try to find that tape Bill was talking about to do the door and quarter panel trim at Hob Lob tomorrow.

Some more progress. Gotta figure how big the drive shaft tunnel needs to be. I have some pretty good ref pictures for that.

Starting to come together.

I agree with Haken. I had to remove a lot of material around the wheel openings on my Dick Brooks Daytona. If not the tires would not have fit right much less have the right stance.

Cmon Mike, you have a lot of room to talk tackling that warped Porsche. I can't just put a roll cage in a stock interior. It just wouldn't look right. Ya think?

You know which one I'm voting for. "The Turd". Then I would have a guide when I got ready to do it. Penske's Grand Sport I did, was the one he beat Miles in at Nassau when he blew the engine on the Cobra. Miles would get ahead of Penske on the straights, but Penske would catch back up with his little 377 in the turns. Penske ended up sweeping all the races that week at Nassau.

Yes, I will have to do the same thing with the frame. Lots of carnage.

Started on the interior. Have to get rid of the floor and seats, but save the driver's seat. I will need to add a new floor with drive shaft tunnel. Add a new rear foundation and package tray, and fix the door trim panels. After all that I can continue with the dash and roll cage and the other stuff. The sprue cutter comes in very handy for the demolition of the old interior.

Pierre, I finally found this one. You should build the Ken Miles Cobra that gave all the Grand Sports fits with the 427. It could go real fast on the straights but had a problem with tight turns. Plowed like a dump truck so they say. And the brakes weren't up to the task either. Thats another one I would like to do some day.

Herbert, here is the brush I use for painting large items like body's, frames or interior tubs. Works great.

Pierre, thank you so much for keeping me from making a mistake. I should put a couple of coats of clear acryl on the color coated model first before I start sanding or polishing. I had forgotten completely about that step. Thanks again. Another senior moment on my part.

Herbert, I will take a photo of the brush and post it here. It is good to buy a high-quality artist brush when brush painting models. Hobby Lobby sells them and sometimes they have reduced prices on them. It is good to use a soft brush. You will save money in the long run buying a high-quality brush. By 1964 they were no longer driving the cars to racetracks. The taillights were left in because there were no rules to remove them yet but eventually during the season, they would get damaged so they would cover the spot where the lamp or whatever it was with some kind of metal cover. So early in the season you would see taillights and later on they were gone, replaced by sheet metal or aluminum. I heard a story that in the early fifty's Hershell McGriff drove his car from California to Darlington South Carolina, and then raced it in the Southern 500.

Thanks, Mike. Now I can move on to the interior for a few days and hope the polishing process will pan out okay.

I believe I have enough paint on the model to start the sanding process with the 6000,8000,12000, sanding cloths. If it goes well, I will follow up with the Novus 1 and Novus 2 polishes. If not, I will add more paint and try again. This is the first time I did not have to sand between color coats, so that is giving me hope that this might be my best result yet in this brush painting deal. Hopefully I've turned the corner and can finally get some presentable results. I will wait a few days to make sure the paint has fully cured before I start the sanding and polishing.

Sounds good, I think you will like it. Let me know if your retarder is thick coming out of the bottle. Maybe I just have an old bottle that went bad, or it's supposed to be thick. It still worked great.

Pierre, I was surprised how well one drop of the silver really did integrate well into the mix. And I used one drop of the retarder and I do believe it helped with brush marks. The retarder comes out of the bottle almost like glue because it's so thick, but if you put it into the mix before you add the thinner it dissolves perfectly. I think the retarder also made the paint look less flat, so I'm thinking the polishing might not have to be so intensive. I think I will mix up one more batch of the mix and just hit the light spots. There are a few in the trunk. I also forgot to say that I added one more drop of thinner since I added the silver and the retarder. Your recipe for the blue looks perfect to me as a match to the color ref pics I have and the ones you posted. I'm Very happy with it.

I'm back after the 5th and 6th coats. the photos with the bottles are the 5th coat and the photos without the bottles are the 6th coat. I'm already seeing reflections in the paint, and I haven't started polishing yet. If you look closely, you can see the reflections of the bottles in the side of the model.

Started painting yesterday. The first photo below is after the first coat. I forgot to take a picture after the second coat, so the second picture is after the third coat. the 3rd picture is after the fourth coat. I just put on the 5th coat and the coverage finally got to looking like something was happening. I'm hoping the sixth coat might be the last. I started out with too wide a brush. The narrower brush did a much better job for coverage. I decided to add a drop of retarder and a drop of silver to the recipe to improve the flow of the paint and also give it just a hint of a metallic look. This began on the 5th coat. hope to get those photos on soon.

Looking Fine. These baby's always look better with the proper tires and wheels.

Since they never ran this thing in Nascar or Trans Am, I dont think i will be picking one up any time soon. Cmon, Mike, this can't be near as hard as that Corvette was to build. You've got this.

I have no words. Just pray for his family and loved ones to get through this difficult time. He will be missed by all of us very much.

Thanks. Pierre. Your guidance has been much appreciated through this journey to freedom from rattle cans and airbrushes. Which I really never want to go back to.

Got the final sanding with the 12000-grit done and will try the color coats tomorrow. I will have to keep reminding myself "light coats, Mark". "Light coats". I always put the paint on to thick and regret it. So again, "3 light coats, Mark and see what you have". I'm so used to spraying Tamiya and the first coat usually gives you pretty good coverage. This paint is so thin you have to do light brush coats and let it build up to give you proper coverage. You have to be patient.

I think I will find a bottle about the size of the primer bottle and strain the whole bottle into it, and then clean the original bottle and strain it again back into the original bottle. That should hopefully take care of the grit. The sanding is coming along pretty good, so it shouldn't be too much longer to get that beautiful blue you came up with on it. Hopefully I can get rid of the brush marks this time, so the sanding and polishing with the Novus will give me the results I'm looking for.