MarkJ

Thanks, Gerald and Josh. I appreciate your interest in the build. I'm really looking forward to the paint process for this body. Hope it works out okay.

I had to make a jig to get the angle right for the rear quarter fender flare coming out of the body, I made a 1/25 scale picture of the real car from directly behind to get the angle and also how far it sticks out of the body. I haven't done that dimension yet because I wanted to finish the rear bumper. The bumper is made to remove so these are just mock up pictures. I will do the same process for the front fender flares. The rear spoiler is very bendable but I will get it lined back up before I paint it. It gets moved around a lot when I'm handling the body to do the mods on it.

Josh, so glad to see you back at it. Your side windows are a major improvement over the oob ones. I'm sure you can make a windshield for this. Just use a piece of paper to make a pattern, but cut it out a little bigger then the opening . install some small brackets around the inside of the opening and the windshield will pop right into place and you probably wont need adhesive, but go ahead and use it.

Thanks, Josh. I'm in no hurry, so however long it takes , so be it. Thanks for the props on the grill. It's not quite right, but eventually it will be partially hidden by a debris screen.

Thanks , Randy. I appreciate your interest in the build.

Thanks, Casey. That would be great, but I don't want to bother anybody with it. If they could move that first part in model car wips in front of this part over here in this forum that would be great.

Thanks Josh, for the props on the build. The piping on the taillight lenses is Evergreen polystyrene .020 rod, purchased at Hobby Lobby. I tried to sand a flat side on the front to try to more simulate the real lenses. Those things are so small they are very hard to work on and not mess them up. I agree the scrap plastic bottle and other scrap plastic materials works great for a lot of things. Plus they are basically free. Looking forward to seeing more on your Daytona coupe.

Thanks, Scott.

Tried out the pen and was pretty happy with it. If I had sanded the mouldings first, I would have gotten better results, but I didn't want to go to that much trouble. . Some parts of the mouldings were smooth, so that's what I focused in on. I also started on the rear bumper. Still have to add the bottom part of it and the rubber pad. Which wont actually be rubber. Remember this green body is just a test body. It will never be a model.

Pierre, I have a spare body that I do experimenting on . Its an old 63 Chevy body with probably 6 different coats of paint on it. it wasn't a kit but a promo pre-built model, kind of the precursor to the die casts we have today, except they were plastic. . I thought I would use the pen I chose, on it, to see how the trim turns out. That chisel tip flows the paint nicely, so I'm hoping for some good results. Thanks for the kind comments on the build. I hope it's worthy of them, when it's finished.

David, the main reason I want to go with a paint pen is because the quality of the bmf has really gone down lately. It doesn't stick very good anymore . I have seen others complain about this too. As far as the molowtow chrome goes, I have waited a week for it to dry and if I handle a part I used it on it dulls badly. it goes from chrome to a dull aluminum finish. This deco color pen is actually a paint pen that does actually dry eventually. I also like the deco pen because it has a chisel tip which works really well on a thin body moulding like a rain gutter. also if you get a little on the body you can scrape it off with a #11 blade and hit it with some future and you're good to go. Thanks for your reply.

A great builder on another site, David Bogard told me that I might want to consider using a testors silver paint pen to do the chrome trim on my models. hobby lobby no longer sells them so I found what I thought were 4 different pens to compare their quality. Turns out number 1 and 4 below are the same pens, just different sizes. I tried the pens on a white piece of styrene just to see how they looked, and how long they took to dry. Number 2 turned out to have the best overall look of the three different pens. I know a lot of people like the molotow chrome pens but I haven't had much luck with them. Even after a long time drying if I touch the surface they dulled badly for me. Number 2 below does not lose its glossiness if you let it dry 24 hours. i tried it on the trim of the tailights I made and was pretty pleased with the results. I don't know how it will react when future is applies to it but I'm thinking it will be okay. i'm going to try it on all the chrome trim on this model like the windshield and back glass trim .

Thanks, Ray and Don. The taillight lenses are done. I just need to post them. The key to those is to color them from the inside with clear red paint. Makes them look more like an actual lens. The backup lamps are decals behind the clear plastic, just glued in place with plastic windshield adhesive that turns clear when it dries.

Thanks, Gerald. Hopefully the wheel opening flares will go a lot smoother.

Thanks, Carl. This rear spoiler has been eating my lunch. Be glad when I finally finish the body so I can finally try the brush painting and see how that works. At least it will be a one tone paint job, so I wont have to mask.

Very nice.

Yes, I also like MCM.com for the same reason. I can download my photos from my files instead of shipping them to a host site first. Especially good when doing a wip.

Looks great, Doc. You don't need to increase the size over at Randy Ayers. I also love these obscure models that need a little extra research to build.