MarkJ

Thanks , Pierre. I don't know why the body looks duller then the hood but it has the same shine in real life. The gloss clear also brought more color out of the paint. It looks yellower then shots taken before the gloss clear was applied. Like you said after polishing and putting on the future I would be happy with it looking like models I sprayed with tamiya and then finished with future. We shall see.

Well I decide to go ahead and brush some Model Master gloss clear acryl on the body to see how it would polish out. I just put it on full strength and actually the brush marks weren't too bad. I think the polishing should remove them ,and the future should give me the gloss I'm looking for. I also started on the interior. The dash and seat will need to be modified quite a bit. However the stock door trim panels were actually used on this car. But the door handles were removed. I will also have to install a weird looking roll cage, that I don't have really good reference pictures for. Some of it will be an edjucated guess.

Thanks, Anton and Josh. With each coat of paint I'm learning more about this brush painting deal. One cool thing I've learned is, if I get a little piece of trash or a bristle or a hair ends up in the paint, after ten minutes, the paint drys and these things can easily be removed with a wooden tooth pic with no damage to the paint. It is important though that you clean the brush well before using it . If there's any little thing left in the brush like a spot of dryed paint that didnt get cleaned out it will find its way to the next coat of paint you apply to the model. I am very pleased with the brush painting and will never go back to spraying.

I decided to polish with 6000,8000, and 12000 grit sanding cloths but I went through to primer in a couple of spots, so I added another coat of paint. This time I added one more drop of yellow in the mix which was, 10 drops of white, 2 drops of yellow, 12 drops of medium thinner, and 2 drops of distilled water. It was much more yellow in real life but the photos don't show how actually yellow it is. It matches my reference photos even better though, so I'm sticking with it. I use a lot more light when photographing the finished pictures of the model and I think the color should show up better on those photos. The polishing did not improve the overall smoothness of the paint that much , so I believe I will just future what I have now and it should look okay. If not I can always remove the future and add some clear that I can polish and see if I get a more mirror like appearance before I add another coat of future. Trouble is the layers are starting to get a little thick so I hope the future on what I have now will give me enough gloss to be satisfied.

Got three color coats on and I'm very pleased with the results. The model is a very pale yellow, but these pictures make it look even more pale then it actually is. The model matches my reference picture of the real car very well. Now I can finally move on to the interior.

Actually the color coat goes on better then the primer. you thin it 100 percent and add two drops of distilled water. The brush stokes disappear.

Thanks, David. Yes I really want to see if I can make this brush painting deal work. It would be so much better then having to work with my air brush or rattle cans, that I end up polishing anyway. The spraying has to be done outside and conditions for spraying down here in all this heat and humidity is never optimal. Even in the winter, it's still very humid.

I followed Pierre's advice, and thinned the primer more, and got much better results. I'm hoping one more round of primer and sanding will allow me to start putting some color on the model. The brush stokes almost were gone on this latest application, so I wont have to sand as hard to get a smooth surface for paint.

That makes perfect sense, Pierre. I've been playing with different strokes and thinning of paint and finally started getting good results when I got to 7 drops of thinner to 7 drops of primer. I used a smaller brush and made short dabby strokes just trying to get the paint on without any brush marks. kind of pushing the paint along watching it carefully to keep it wet. knowing that when it dried it would be less thick and no brush marks. Hopefully I wont have to sand as much when this primer drys. Thanks for your input. If this works out okay I will report about it in the brush painter society thread.

I've been having a problem with priming which you will see in the latest photos. I put the primer on with the brush and then to get rid of the brush strokes I wet sand. In order to get rid of the stokes, I end up sanding back down to the gray primer or even the orange body. I have decided on my next attempt to dab the primer on instead of brush it on. Maybe it will flow out better and I wont have to sand as hard to get a smooth surface to apply the color coat. I'm not giving up on using a brush.

I for one do not have a clue. Junior Johnson built the Monte Carlos.

Beautiful paint.

Another fine build by the Master. As always the model looks just like the real car. Really beautifully done.

The car pictured is actually the 305 cubic inch Charger Dick Brooks drove at 1971 Daytona 500. It was built by Mario Rossi who also built the Dodge Daytona's that Allison drove in 1969 , so The colors are probably the same . Dont know what the correct colors are though. I just used tamiya rattle can gold and red on the Brook's Charger I built. Wasn't real happy with the gold. Came out real dull. Does rattle can tamiya have a shelf life?

After I went to the trouble of putting the jacks on the model, I found out that the jacking system was not used in the car that I modeled from the Nassau tourist trophy race that he won in. All that work for nothing.

I believe that i discovered that, that is the fuel overflow vent. why its facing to the front makes no sense. the tube runs up the right quarter sail panel from the oversized tank right behind the seats.

Thanks, David. I know one thing. There is no way I'm stripping and starting over.

Thanks, Josh. Hopefully its just a bump in the road. I will know better after the coat of white primer goes on.

Thanks, Mike. I think I can fix it . Just have to not lose my patience at this juncture of the build.

The corvette grand sport I just built had the pneumatic jacking system and I installed it the best I could. it was a tripod setup with one jack in the back in the middle and 2 up front at the firewall.

I got a little too thick with the primer and started to fill up the door and trunk lines. I tryed to scribe the lines with my scribing tool and the primer did not come out of the groove cleanly . It just balled up down to the original orange plastic, so now I have a mess up, thats going to be hard to fix. I hate to have to strip the primer and start over again. Dont even know if the purple stuff will strip this primer.

Coming together nicely, Josh. Doesn't seem like much more to go. This will be a truly Awesome build.

Thanks , Ricky. I don't trust myself with a dremel. I have one but seldom use it. Thanks again for the kind words.

This primer, when dry, is an extremely hard surface to sand. I had to go down to 600 grit to actually cut into it and do any productive sanding. My next coat will be thinned, so hopefully there wont be huge brush marks. I will probably have to do more coats, but it will be worth it, to not have to sand so much. I will use the same body I used for the chrome moulding study, to get the thinner, which will be distilled water, just right. So I can come up with a smoother finish , and less sanding.

Do you have any plans to put some clear coat on that baby? That's pretty cool that you can create your own models. You never have to buy another kit.