Biggu

I am also assuming...( I know.. but ).... that a rattle can of Acrylic Lacquer automotive paint could be used as well, with a primer of course? Even for regular styrene? I have always used specific enamel model paints....

LOL, that is like most projects, we seem to get on with, they usually go over budget... but in a good way... the results , in your case were well worth it in my eyes, it is really good. When all written out the painting procedure sounds daunting, but in practice not so much, looks like I will have to stock up on some thinners... seems a bit technical.... but with the sound advice I am getting here I think I should be able to get some results.... I appreciate every word....

Thanks for the great insight Trevor, I have and do use the 'sniff' test... and it seems to work well for my applications.... I just wasn't sure that with 3D if the plastic or resin used may have different properties to either slow drying the paint or not letting the paint adhere, or peal etc, etc... once again , I am behind the curve about the thinning of the enamel paints, looks like I may have to amend my ways... old dog , new trick thing..

My good buddy is our senior heavy duty mechanical foreman ( I worked highways maintenance 38 years ) and I asked the same question regarding a build of mine,and he said a drive shaft has to be at an angle especially high / low of about 6 degrees, as it has to keep a certain 'load' on the u-joint bearings, if it is straight and flat, there is no load and the u-joints will fail...... maybe that might be part of it as well ? Just a thought Jeff

Bill, your shop dio is awesome !!! You are the second or third guy to mention thinning enamels with lacquer thinner............ I had NO idea that was a thing or even possible..... so if I have this correct, after reading all of the ideas presented here, is that if I were to thin enamel paint with enamel thinner, the paint takes a lot longer to dry on 3D printed items ? I find that as usual for me, enamels are good to handle after about 24 hours or so... I do know it does take a while for them to fully cure as mentioned here earlier, but as it is sprayed on 3D does it take longer because of what the 3D material is..... sorry to be so thick guys... but this is relatively new territory for me....

I'm guilty as well.... to me it seems that there is either a sub assembly waiting to dry, or paint waiting to dry, so I dabble in another kit and do small sub assemblies, but so as not to lose anything, I always put cut cleaned parts or sub assemblies in zip lock bags in the kit box, then I know the parts won't get lost and if a part breaks off it is still in the bag and not in the firm grip of the carpet monster.... but I always have a bunch of kits on the go...

AWESOME ! Thanks for that... drying time for me isn't usually a big deal, unless it takes weeks or something crazy like that..... I have heard some oils take a while to dry , but that is another thing.... so by reading the other answers, it seems basically any paint should work.... I knew I came to the right place... thanks

Silly question time.... I apologize if this question has been asked and answered... I have a few 3D printed parts for my large truck builds, and believe it to be plastic as the parts are quite flexible and 'feel' like plastic.... I don't believe they are resin...... and I am so far resisting the acrylic paints ( I know , but...) as I have had a lot of difficulty spraying them, and I prefer enamels.... question is, can I paint the 3D parts with enamel paints, ( Testors Model Master ) and if so is there any special prep work needed for the paint to stick and stay on said parts..... again, sorry if this has been asked and answered, I would appreciate any advice or experiences you guys have had with this.... Jeff

If I couldn't have snagged my 50th Anniversary roadster, THIS is what I would have taken in a heart beat, what a pretty ride.... I love it

I love the feed back you guys are bringing...

My oldest one for me is a MPC '73 Mustang Funny car Hot Rod Magazine issue, complete with the open drag chute, that was purchased for Christmas 1974 ... still have it in it's unfinished state....

Thanks Mike, she is a bit special to me.... and a fun ride for sure....

Congrats on your purchase of a beautiful ride, I special ordered my '93 in Sept of '92..... full load LT1Coupe, FX3 , Z07, 6spd, etc...I love the ride...goes very well, is the LAST 75U color #325 of 325... only 46,000 0n the clock.... was $53,000 Canadian and payments were $720 per month... it was a struggle at times, but she is well, well paid for and I'm glad I pushed through, I still have her and she is 30 years old THIS month...this photo taken a year or so ago in Kaslo British Columbia...... sorry for the thread hijack.. ... but this is starting to look like a Corvette thread.... oh yeah, also have a '03 50th Anniversary roadster too...

This is good to know, some real good points, and now I don't feel like I have screwed up a kit if the wheels don't roll ....

Thanks for the input , guys.... most interesting, to see how others deal with this silly question, like Tom, I have also tried to keep things rolling, but as Victor says, I too use a lot of aftermarket wheels and rims...and at that point it becomes very difficult to make things roll, although I recently finished the new issue AMT Pete Wrecker and put a set of floats on it and with a little bit of fettling, they went on and roll like they were made for it. I like the final result of the floats on that truck...

I hear you there Trevor... we get some cold temps here in B.C. and back in the day when the plow truck I drove had the old school bias ply tires, that was an adventure....?

Thanks Greg, that's kind of where I'm going, and yeah, they aren't toys.... last thing a guy needs is for them to roll off the shelf after a ton of work...

Hi, guys, sorry if this question has been asked, I have been at this modelling thing for a lot of years..... and have always tried to make the wheels roll on my car and truck kits..... just curious as to how many of you lock the wheels so they don't roll.... I am back into building trucks and am also finally in a position where I can buy aftermarket wheels and tires and find that in order to make the truck in this case look as I want, I have to lock the wheels from rolling.... just wondering how many of you do that as a regular part of your builds.... oh, and I don't play with them either all shelf queens.... I'm very curious... Jeff

WOW, thats awesome !!!!!!!! I wish someone would do a 2019 Tahoe Premier... Can't wait to see what you do with this.... very cool

Dave, it is worse for us up here, the shipping from the USA can be astronomical AND we are subjected to an added 30% exchange rate on average, you guys get a deal on shipping when compared to what we go through, and some times, we get nailed for taxes when the package crosses the border, like I did last week...... shipping is such a scam, all I want to do is rent a little space in the truck NOT buy the whole truck.... ? Jeff

I agree, Paul at STS is awesome ! And I am so happy he bought SU........... this really enhances Paul's site and with his excellent service, this will only get better ! I am so happy Scenes didn't go the way of the Dodo bird.... THANKS, Paul !! Jeff

I like this ... I have two of these in the stash, and will probably be my next build, I'm watching with great interest... Jeff

I rarely comment, but I have to....................... this is nothing short of GORGEOUS ! You have nailed the look , stance and color, outstandingly done ! Take a BOW !! Cheers Jeff

I would like to be the first one to apply to be the driver of this beauty, I can send a driving history for you if needed .. LOL So that color is awesome, stupid question time, what paint is it and what is the official color call out.... I could really use that on a project I have in mind... been looking for the right hue and this is it.... outstanding build..... Jeff

Holy............. that is spectacular !!!