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The Creative Explorer

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Everything posted by The Creative Explorer

  1. Ron, I have the kit layin around, send me a pm with your e-mail and i'll scan it for you.
  2. looks like somebody shrunk a truck (or semi for the USA) and put a sportscar on top
  3. The same goes with 'your' cars in the states. You can already buy somewhere in 2010 a 2011 car...even when it is summer 2010...
  4. I've bought a few copies of MCM at Bridgetown Hobbies in Portland. Dunno where you are from, but if it is not too far, you could try that.
  5. I'd rather have a hard-copy for sure, but for me being on the other side of the pond, a digital version is for sure an option. 10-20 a month is somewhat unrealistic, if it would be 20, it would cost 240 a year, a bit much for digital. Then the hard-copy is always the best choice. I think to keep a digital version interesting, it only can beat a hard copy on one thing; price. So it should be competetive against a hard copy. I would say 20-30 dollars a year for a digital subscription seems to me realistic. The big advantage of the digital version is that after the inital costs, it basically doesn't have any running costs per single magazine. If you have 5-10 subscribers it is unrealistic, but when it starts to run, it for sure can be an extra bit of cahs-flow and be profitable.
  6. For sure it is not a 1:1 car. Neither a 'model' as we interpret. My guess it is a 1/1,5 or 1/2 scale version of the real car. 'kids'-size if you like
  7. Thanks, I just don't get the big 'fuzz' about whether it should be a '11 instead of a '10. Please don't get me wrong, but already in the '06 version there is not a lot to show underneath the hood. It is not like there is a gem of a v-8 lurking down there. Maybe it is because I live on this side of the pond, but it wouldn't matter to me if it was a '10. I'll buy it I am interested in how much they would harvest from the '06 kit,
  8. Maybe it is stupid, but what is the big difference between the 2010 and 2011 mustang? I can only see the 5.0 badge instead of a GT badge on the car and the rest of the exterior seems to be very much the same, except for the wheels.
  9. Tamiya had a line with 'full-view' models. Like the Ferrari F50, a F1 racer and a Toyota le-mans type car.
  10. Ok thanks. I've never seen anybody build that chinese car, and from the looks of it, it is actually a nice kit. It even comes with pre-cut carpet. On the compiling thing; I don't think that is the best way. I am intending to use this thread also as a project thread. If we compile it all to just one thrad, it would be a big mess IMHO
  11. It is a interesting community build and even though I am not much of a community builder, this does look interesting. Which of the following would qualify:
  12. If so; I am interested in those articles, especially that Camaro is amazing.
  13. Sanding smooth with my own designed tools, clever it it's simpelness and it works delightfull in tight places. Finished the door for now The top part is finished smooth too, a good base to start on. It might be hard to see, but I used a stainless steel rod beneath the original tube, this time it is curved and heads for the sloped bank. This is just the first step, next step will be cutting in halve, so I can make a base on the banks.
  14. And filling again The before mentioned inlet-manifold, it just doesnt look right With the multitool and a small drill, carefully got rid of the first 2 tubes and it's base. En because it was difficult working on it, I got rid of the top part. Making things easier. Filling the bottomside first Then the top
  15. On the left you see a treatment with the 4-way file and on the right the rough product made with the proxxon. Fill..... Even de rear-hatch had measels...I mean holes Looks like a red mushroom with white dots. Filling the engine. When you look closely, you see a box molded-in, this didnt look all that realistic and I removed it with the proxxon. Both sides has such a box (computer)
  16. I also mounted the door-panels, I've seen a few Tamiya Enzo's that had the whole doorpanel in carbon, but this is incorrect, the lower part should be body-color Filled a few pressureholes I got rid of the molded-in mesh and will replace it with PE BEfore and after. The first round of primer And the first parts in primer Still working on the fenders, you can see the diagonal line and how it is filled and smoothened out. The whole between the doorpanel and the door is filled, because the lower part is body-color; it needs to be smooth These 2 towers will be replaced with PE Then came the Proxxon and behold: result!
  17. Basically all the body-parts, such a refreshment after all those body's in one piece. All of the parts had some problems with irregularity, so a bit of sanding is needed. A 4-way file is just so perfect for these jobs. Even the small roof had those problems. On the inside of the fender was a big diagonal seem, it is basically not visible when the engine is in the car, but I want to have it smooth anyway. The door with the same problem Not anymore ;-)
  18. Finally; after a long time since my HDD crash I can give a update, be aware that it is a huge one! The exuasts are glued together and been sanded, you can see a seem on the catalyst, but it should be there, so I left it and not overdo the sanding. A bit of filler too smooth things out. At the front of the engine, on the banana, I drilled a hole and will put a sensor in there after painting. I am using PE brakes and use a metal rod for centering The parts of one of the rear-brakes. One thing I really like is that the middle part is just thick PE, so I dont need to bent all the vents. A dryfit to see if there are any mistakes, looking for overall fit and it helps me visualize a paintjob.
  19. Thanks guys, At this point, I am leaning towards 1, but I am waiting for the ordered paints to see how the colors will match. @Raul; I only know a few basics in photoshop and in some cases it helps me visualise something. I have a pretty good imaginary mind, but sometimes this helps me compare a few possibilities and give me insight on how a change might look. It is a nice tool, but one that is not needed for modelling per se. Dilemma, I was researching for the engine, I basically had it ready for primering, and wanted to know how bad the sandcast effect was. But I stumpled accross this picture: http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/I53WEruup7Bv-3oGr_vEhA When you then look at the Tamiya Enzo Engine, you just see it is not correct. Pay attention to the tubes that comes down from the airbox to the engine. In the Tamiya kit, they are 12 straight pipes with a seem halfway. When comparing it to the real deal, you see pipes that come down, they are wider and they bent at the engine half. So I don't know what to do. The work that needs to be done is quite a handfull, but I can handle that, the biggest problem is that I am not good at consisted scratch-building and since I need to destruct the intake first, before I can make something nice out of it; I am affraid to ruin it. So, if I just continue, I know I will have a incorrect Enzo, but working on the problem and fix, might make things worse. However, When I was typing this, a 3rd and more appealing option came upon me, I can also fix the first and maybe second row of intake pipes, therefore not a whole lot of tearing down is needed, and the other rows are not visible anyway, Sounds more appealing.
  20. Thanks guys, appreciated @Curtis, I work on and off with it, it is just such a pain in the derriere, seriously. It is by far the worst kit I've ever seen and worked on. My window-sills keep breaking and so it's been laying around again. But don't worry, I will finish that sucker. Since my HDD crashed yesterday and I've been working basically non-stop on it to see what I can rescue from it, I worked a little bit in photoshop to see what I could do for a paintjob. Everybody that knows me a little, does know that I just can't paint a normal paintjob. With this one, I tried to capture some old racing livery's from the 250-twelve cilinders,
  21. Because of some hard edges, I threw the parts in bleach and have the freedom to work with it. In the upper connor was a bit of extra plastic molded-in, I cancelled that and filled it smooth. The rear-axle will be replaced as well, this is the standard part.... ...Which is going to be replaced with a piece of tubing and a turned metal part.
  22. Back in 2006 I bought this Enzo kit for a bargain on my vacation in Luxembourg. I kept myself saying that I would start building this one, till I was ready for it. I kept stalling and kept saying to myself that I need to build first this kit and then that kit and it kept going on. But this last sunday I got some motivation and grew some cohoney's to start on it. What I want is to give myself in this kit, my full 100% without shortcuts. I always have stuff done on a build that is not to my satisfactory and I want to eliminate that element. So I will only work on this car when I want to, when I have the right motivation to build beyond my limits. And so I started today, Basically the only thing I could do was glueing the engineparts together and cleaned up the left-exhaust. cost me 3-4 hours on just those few parts. The bos: Some of the extra parts I am going to use, I will use more aftermarket stuff, but that will appear later on. The first parts of the engine doesnt need a whole lot of detailling other than adding the sand-texture. I will sand off the detail on the backside and add a piece of wire. Here I cut out a tube that was molded in, but didn't show up realistically, so I cut it out and will replace it with tubing. The parts of the left-exhaust.
  23. Just to start; beauty is in the eye of the beholder. there are many examples of nice looking cars from France, just as Italy. However, their style is different. But where France and Italy try to make their cars look nice, try Germany! Seriously; think of it. There are barely any interesting cars made in Germany that look nice, other than the 356 Porsche.
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