Rick L

Just a word of caution: Novus polish may work fine on BMF but not on the manufacturers chromed plastic parts.

Test! Test! Test! a quick shot of paint on a plastic spoon before you dive into painting the model is always easier than stripping the paint after.

If you ask nice, any granite countertop installer could supply you a one inch thick cutoff for free.

I agree with Steve. There are more uses to WD40 than naphtha. As a matter of fact I think there’s a can in MY mothers basement also.😆

Ooooooouch! That is a bummer! You did such a great job to that point.

Testing it out first is the only way you can truly be satisfied with the results.

I’d say it depends on the year of the car you’re modeling. Undercoating was an available option in the 50’s to prevent rust. So a black coating would be appropriate. If you were too cheap to buy that option ( like my dad) the wheel wells were either the same color of the body or primer.🤣

Kamoi tape 40mm

Staples is a stationary store. The product is called foamboard. It an extruded polystyrene board laminated with paper. You can buy a 20”x30” board for $7.00.

Staples.

Soaking is not a good method to clean parts. Soapy water or alcohol is used as a medium to wipe or scrub the parts.

You can safely use any paints or solvents made for styrene based plastics interchangeably.

Most resin castings are cast with silicone based release agents. Soapy water or isopropyl alcohol works fine for most.

Sounds like a tape problem to me. Some masking tapes are too aggressive. Especially when left on too long. Tamiya tape burnished on the edges works very well.

Naphtha and toluene on the msds. It’s hot.