Rick L

I’d say it depends on the year of the car you’re modeling. Undercoating was an available option in the 50’s to prevent rust. So a black coating would be appropriate. If you were too cheap to buy that option ( like my dad) the wheel wells were either the same color of the body or primer.🤣

Kamoi tape 40mm

Staples is a stationary store. The product is called foamboard. It an extruded polystyrene board laminated with paper. You can buy a 20”x30” board for $7.00.

Staples.

Soaking is not a good method to clean parts. Soapy water or alcohol is used as a medium to wipe or scrub the parts.

You can safely use any paints or solvents made for styrene based plastics interchangeably.

Most resin castings are cast with silicone based release agents. Soapy water or isopropyl alcohol works fine for most.

Sounds like a tape problem to me. Some masking tapes are too aggressive. Especially when left on too long. Tamiya tape burnished on the edges works very well.

Naphtha and toluene on the msds. It’s hot.

A few tips on reducing bubbles Stir slowly and don’t use popsicle sticks. They are too porous and will introduce bubbles. Use a mini plastic spatula or plastic sprue. If it has a long working time, warm the two parts in a water bath this will make the plastic less viscous. The lower the viscosity the easier bubbles rise. If using the “squish” method, don’t pour in the middle of the mold and slap the cap on. Pour it down the side wall of the mold until you have the desired amount. An ultrasonic cleaner will also help bring bubbles up on less viscous plastics. Place the cup with plastic into the cleaner tray and surround the cup with water. You can buy an inexpensive cleaner at Harbor Freight. When you wind up with micro bubbles at the top of the plastic, wave a bunsen torch or breath heavily over it. The carbon dioxide will break them up. I’ve never tried this myself but am told that a spritz of alcohol on the surface of the plastic will also remove those micro pests.

Bummer. You would think they’d use a more reliable material for fragile parts.

Ditto!

It amazes me what Jim Hall had accomplished by 1966 at 31 years old.

I vote for striations.

The higher the resolution on the printer the better the quality of the surface. Think of it like pixels on your digital camera or your tv screen the more dots per square inch the sharper it will be.