Pierre Rivard

I toned down and finessed the weathering and happy with the results. So this one goes into waiting mode until I receive the set of wheels from Jason.

pretty cool stuff, and the real race footage in the movie shows what kind of roads they were dealing with. I doubt modern race drivers would man up for that.

In 1955 the distance was 992 miles. It's a race against the clock and the clock does not stop at check points (about 20 of them) and refueling stops. The Moss/Jenkinson team started at 7:22 am and crossed the finish at 17:29 for a winning time of 10:07 at an average of 97mph. The Fangio car I am building started at 6:58 and finished at 17:37 for a total time of 10:39, driving alone and running on 7 (one cylinder fuel feed broken) for half the race. On public roads, crossing dozens of towns, crazy stuff!

Personally I just like to slowly dry brush the pigments one little spot at a time. I'm still working out the technique over silver but I found it was easier to do on a red car (like your Maser?). Matt clear after decals, oiled earth wash and then dry pigments.

Thanks Ken, I agree. I did touch up a few overdone areas with light slate grey pigments to tone it down and it looks more balanced that way.

The rest of weathering... with these products...and the results. Might need to tweak some more...but could make it worse...not sure...

I love the 906, thanks Gary for taking this one out of the vault for us all to enjoy. I was aware of the LS/Arii kit but not of a Lindberg one. It definitely looks the part. I want to build one but the prices asked on Ebay for these are silly. Fernando has a nice resin kit so that's an option.

Nice fab on what must be a very small part.

Great build Phil and I love the story that came with it. I too have once put a figurine in the driver seat... and had to amputate the legs above the feet. It's a tight fit but figurines add so much interest when done right, just like your's.

Weathering of the underbody was done to reflect mostly toad dust accumulation. Everything had previously received dark oiled earth washes and I completed the weathering with light ochre yellow pigments. Tomorrow I will be tackling the next phase of the exterior body weathering.

I decided to pause weathering and get the body to chassis integration finished. I did not know how much manipulation would be needed and how I could damage weathering effects so better get that out of the way. Good decision...despite countless test fitting during the build this step had to be done multiple times as more interference points popped up. Now these two are bonded for life.

Baby steps starting the weathering. First decision was to start with a flat clear (after decals), then oiled earth wash. Step two was to simulate spills from refueling

This is going to be a challenging but fun project. I can see many changes coming. Good stuff!

Looks really good with the added structure and turbos. All the rest that was molded in one piece has been wonderfully "cheated" with detail painting and washes. Another 1/43 masterpiece in the making.

Way cool and creative project. Wonderful example of out of box thinking, and I do like the cow catcher.

perfect paint Chris. Please post your address so I can ship my bodies... ?

Thank you Allan. Now on to the last phase of the build. Other than a few exterior trim pieces the big job is race weathering of the body. I'm still thinking about how to take on that task. Any advice will be welcome.

I waited years before taking the plunge into EBay land. It's a learning experience but by being patient and careful there are good opportunities out there. One thing I have noticed is that shipping from EU to Canada is usually cheaper and faster than US to Canada. Doesn't make sense...

Thank you Mark. Variation of the aluminium shades (by mixing in a touch of black or dark gray) to some of the parts and a liberal use of Vallejo oily earth wash has helped provide more realism to the engine and chassis.

We always forget something right. This time it was the drive shaft and everything is glued tight. The way this thing was layered assembled there was no going back. I cut the shaft in 3 pieces, inserted the pieces in and re-assembled in that tight space. Some paint touch ups have to be done after it has dried (see first pic). The chassis and engine compartment are all done. My first attempt at a more elaborate detailing job and pretty happy with it. Some weathering has been incorporated to show a bit of oil and grime. I'll leave the engine compartment as is but I am considering adding some road dust & debris type weathering to the underside. This will be determined at the same time I decide if I go for a race weathered exterior body.

It's fun to see this kind of free flow creative project. You always come up with unique cars to model and this one definitely "fits the mold"

One of them still has a label. The smaller rolls came as a lot and a bit thicker gauge (0.016") than the larger roll (0.013").

Those clear parts need some love. If only scratches that can be polished out (I once even removed a wiper molded into glass that way). Coarse to fine then compounds and last a coat of Future. If cracked then go to food container clear plastic. Pretty easy since the glass pieces are flat on this car.

Time to build the fuel manifold & feeds. Manifold is 8 stacked 1,19 mm brass tubes and the fuel feeds are made of 0.4mm wires (from Michael's jewelry section) After the fuel distribution was done I was ready to install the engine into the partially pre assembled engine compartment structure. Planning the layering of components is required as dropping the engine into a fully built front end won't work. So engine install, then steering shaft, top of firewall, then top engine compartment structure. Now I can proceed with adding the oil reservoir and more detailing.

Interesting, I do my gauges in a similar way but I use Micro Krystal Klear for the "glass" and I don't like it much. I have the same epoxy as your's but did not realize it dries clear enough for this. That's good learning.